Professional Products intake install - those who have done it
11-13-2007, 10:13 AM
#1
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Professional Products intake install - those who have done it Couple of questions about the details.
First, I want to do the fuel feed a little differently; instead of
tandem I want to use a Y-block and feed them both from the
back (#7/#8 ought to not be lean then). How much room is
between the butt of the manifold and the firewall when it is
installed? Enough for a -6AN fuel hose? Using the nylon/nitrile
Jegs -AN fuel hose which is a hair fatter than steel braid lines,
looks like about 1/2" OD. Similar to the Russell ProClassic only
without the green strand in it (bleh).
I also got a note from Professional Products support saying
to replace the valley cover bolts with a lower-profile pan head
type. Anyone know offhand the thread & length? Just want to
get all the odds & ends before tearing up.
Last, want to paint the rails black, to make them "go away".
Know of any good primers that will stick to hot greasy anodized
aluminum? Or a paint that's good enough without primer?
First, I want to do the fuel feed a little differently; instead of
tandem I want to use a Y-block and feed them both from the
back (#7/#8 ought to not be lean then). How much room is
between the butt of the manifold and the firewall when it is
installed? Enough for a -6AN fuel hose? Using the nylon/nitrile
Jegs -AN fuel hose which is a hair fatter than steel braid lines,
looks like about 1/2" OD. Similar to the Russell ProClassic only
without the green strand in it (bleh).
I also got a note from Professional Products support saying
to replace the valley cover bolts with a lower-profile pan head
type. Anyone know offhand the thread & length? Just want to
get all the odds & ends before tearing up.
Last, want to paint the rails black, to make them "go away".
Know of any good primers that will stick to hot greasy anodized
aluminum? Or a paint that's good enough without primer?
11-13-2007, 11:40 PM
#2
I don't know about your other questions but I actually just finished an intake manifold install about an hour ago... and yes there is plenty of room to run a fuel line in the back.
I would say there is ~4-6 inches between the back of the manifold and the firewall.
I would say there is ~4-6 inches between the back of the manifold and the firewall.
11-14-2007, 06:54 PM
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Professional Products fuel rails are anodized Sorry, jimmyblue but Pro-Prods reccommends to have the red anodizing removed or blasted off first. Then you can have them anodized any color you want. I think black is the best in my humble opinion.
I dont belive there is any spray paint or primers in existance that would hold up otherwise. My co-worker has 01 LS1 Pro-Charger Corvette with the same Pro-Prod intake and fuel rail kit and had the rails redone at Custom Metal Finishing in Gardena, CA maybe you should give them a call and let us know.
Good luck!
I dont belive there is any spray paint or primers in existance that would hold up otherwise. My co-worker has 01 LS1 Pro-Charger Corvette with the same Pro-Prod intake and fuel rail kit and had the rails redone at Custom Metal Finishing in Gardena, CA maybe you should give them a call and let us know.
Good luck!
11-14-2007, 09:05 PM
#4
Valley cover bolts I used were 8mm x 1.25 x 30mm, Metric socket button head stainless screws. They look nice. Get them here. http://www.boltdepot.com/product.asp...&cm=19&cd=1318 You can just see one in this pic, but you can get the idea of what they look like. 
Last edited by LS1MCSS; 02-18-2008 at 04:27 AM.
11-17-2007, 07:23 PM
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Thanks for the BoltDepot tip; been having a hard time finding
metric stainless around here.
I decided to strip the rails myself, and liked them so much that
way that I'm not going to paint them. I masked the holes and
used Easy-Off and a stainless brush to get them bare outside
while keeping the inside anodized. Check it out:
metric stainless around here.
I decided to strip the rails myself, and liked them so much that
way that I'm not going to paint them. I masked the holes and
used Easy-Off and a stainless brush to get them bare outside
while keeping the inside anodized. Check it out:
01-11-2008, 12:50 PM
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I have finished the installation and all is good.
I got the suggested pan-head bolts from Bolt Depot and they
let the intake sit down without problems. I used the new gaskets
that Professional Products sent me and there seem to be no seal
problems. My idle is cleas as before and IAC counts are about 70
(used to be 90 but with a stock epoxied TB). Good enough, in
control.
I had to add some length to the MAP sensor harness to make
it reach. I used the pigtail off my spare "bench programming,
someday" harness but you could use any old wire. I tapped the
small drilled hole for 10-24 and made a retainer clip to keep the
MAP from getting popped out by a backfire etc. using some
aluminum scrap. The MAP sensor (original, stock) barb-gasket
seemed to not be that eager to keep the sensor in there tight
but is good enough to seal. So I think this was a good idea.
A fresh sensor not already crushed by the stock receptacle,
might stick better, dunno. I plugged the large vacuum hole that
is close to the cam sensor, and used the T and barb fittings
that PP sent me to hook up the brake booster and vac line.
This needed some reach-around to dodge the cam sensor but
it fit. Very tight fit at the back.
I had some trouble getting the manifold to seat, best tip is to
get the front two bolts in loose and then jockey the back of
the manifold back & forth to finger-seat the rear two Allens.
A bit of silver anti-sieze is a real good idea, makes the bolts
thread in a lot easier. With the corners good the centers went
right in but starting from the front I could not get the back to
find the hole. I dogged it down one evening, and let it sit; I
got another half-turn on it next day as the gasket took its
set. I used the copper gasket goo as a tack-down on the head
and head-facing gasket side, you'll want to do that and let it
set up or it'll try and slide around. The bolts do not locate the
gasket with any authority, holes are large. I had port-matched
the heads to an old style gasket PP sent me and the new ones
lined up nice (but would be a mess if the gasket slid as far as
it could).
Had some fuel fitting leaks which I chased down before start.
The custom fuel rail plumbing up earlier, I kept. Looks pretty
clean I think (almost like it coulda been stock, only the rails
are finned aluminum). I was able to reuse the factory bellows
and 85mm MAF for a pretty tight lineup. No smell of gas after
a couple rounds of ******* down AN fittings.
Car runs about the same as before, but less pedal to make it
break loose (more air for less pedal). No mixture issues at cruise
or idle, etc. Seems like problem-free.
No interference issues w/ the Hotchkiss STB.
Big thanks to Jim Davis at Professional Products, who helped me
out with the head-porting gasket for template and got me the
"update kit" when I discovered I had gotten an early-version
manifold box.
I got the suggested pan-head bolts from Bolt Depot and they
let the intake sit down without problems. I used the new gaskets
that Professional Products sent me and there seem to be no seal
problems. My idle is cleas as before and IAC counts are about 70
(used to be 90 but with a stock epoxied TB). Good enough, in
control.
I had to add some length to the MAP sensor harness to make
it reach. I used the pigtail off my spare "bench programming,
someday" harness but you could use any old wire. I tapped the
small drilled hole for 10-24 and made a retainer clip to keep the
MAP from getting popped out by a backfire etc. using some
aluminum scrap. The MAP sensor (original, stock) barb-gasket
seemed to not be that eager to keep the sensor in there tight
but is good enough to seal. So I think this was a good idea.
A fresh sensor not already crushed by the stock receptacle,
might stick better, dunno. I plugged the large vacuum hole that
is close to the cam sensor, and used the T and barb fittings
that PP sent me to hook up the brake booster and vac line.
This needed some reach-around to dodge the cam sensor but
it fit. Very tight fit at the back.
I had some trouble getting the manifold to seat, best tip is to
get the front two bolts in loose and then jockey the back of
the manifold back & forth to finger-seat the rear two Allens.
A bit of silver anti-sieze is a real good idea, makes the bolts
thread in a lot easier. With the corners good the centers went
right in but starting from the front I could not get the back to
find the hole. I dogged it down one evening, and let it sit; I
got another half-turn on it next day as the gasket took its
set. I used the copper gasket goo as a tack-down on the head
and head-facing gasket side, you'll want to do that and let it
set up or it'll try and slide around. The bolts do not locate the
gasket with any authority, holes are large. I had port-matched
the heads to an old style gasket PP sent me and the new ones
lined up nice (but would be a mess if the gasket slid as far as
it could).
Had some fuel fitting leaks which I chased down before start.
The custom fuel rail plumbing up earlier, I kept. Looks pretty
clean I think (almost like it coulda been stock, only the rails
are finned aluminum). I was able to reuse the factory bellows
and 85mm MAF for a pretty tight lineup. No smell of gas after
a couple rounds of ******* down AN fittings.
Car runs about the same as before, but less pedal to make it
break loose (more air for less pedal). No mixture issues at cruise
or idle, etc. Seems like problem-free.
No interference issues w/ the Hotchkiss STB.
Big thanks to Jim Davis at Professional Products, who helped me
out with the head-porting gasket for template and got me the
"update kit" when I discovered I had gotten an early-version
manifold box.
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02-13-2008, 08:52 PM
#11
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I was checking out the throttle linkage and I found my pedal
was not drawing the blade full open. My cables are all tight
but my TCS "gizmo" binds up before the blade opens. The
Professional Products TB pulleys are exactly like the stocker
too.
I fixed this pretty simply by making a new shaft-hole in the
pulley, closer to the edge & ball-end. This lessens the effective
radius and draw needed to turn the shaft. About 10 minutes
with the drill & Dremel (I used a diamond burr because I had
nothing else small enough).
You people with TCS-equipped F-bodies might want to check
this out on yours. May be something (HP) in it for you.
Just makes me want to rip out TCS even more, even though
I've fixed it.
was not drawing the blade full open. My cables are all tight
but my TCS "gizmo" binds up before the blade opens. The
Professional Products TB pulleys are exactly like the stocker
too.
I fixed this pretty simply by making a new shaft-hole in the
pulley, closer to the edge & ball-end. This lessens the effective
radius and draw needed to turn the shaft. About 10 minutes
with the drill & Dremel (I used a diamond burr because I had
nothing else small enough).
You people with TCS-equipped F-bodies might want to check
this out on yours. May be something (HP) in it for you.
Just makes me want to rip out TCS even more, even though
I've fixed it.
