Throttle Body "Drilled & Epoxied"
Re: Throttle Body "Drilled & Epoxied" You fill the IAC and PCV ports with epoxy and
grind / blend to make the entire TB throat as
smooth to airflow as possible. Then, you have
to drill some holes (like 1/4", instead of
that 1"x1/2" lip / recess) to restore those
functions' air feed.
grind / blend to make the entire TB throat as
smooth to airflow as possible. Then, you have
to drill some holes (like 1/4", instead of
that 1"x1/2" lip / recess) to restore those
functions' air feed.
Re: Throttle Body "Drilled & Epoxied" it's easier to use a couple pens while filling in the gap to create the holes. Some leave them in and grind them off with the epoxy.
I coated mine with oil, packed in the epoxy and then pulled them out. Let it cure and started grinding.
I coated mine with oil, packed in the epoxy and then pulled them out. Let it cure and started grinding.
Re: Throttle Body "Drilled & Epoxied" I've heard there is some machining that is done on TBs as part of the porting process. I want to port my own TB and have a lathe, but what needs to be machined? Also, if you open the throat up wouldn't you need a bigger butterfly valve so it will close all the way?
Re: Throttle Body "Drilled & Epoxied" DON'T midify the area where the butterfly is!!! That area just gets run over with a LITTLE wet/dry sandpaper to take out any scratches and such.
The area you are porting is BEFORE the butterfly.
The machining is on the TB stop to get you to 100%. That needs to be done on the car with AutoTap hooked up (you don't want to go past 100% or the computer will throw a code).
The area you are porting is BEFORE the butterfly.
The machining is on the TB stop to get you to 100%. That needs to be done on the car with AutoTap hooked up (you don't want to go past 100% or the computer will throw a code).
Re: Throttle Body "Drilled & Epoxied" Oh, OK I've already done the throttle stop mod, and I did use Autotap to get it right on. After I made that post I found a few how-to's on TB porting, learned that people avoid the butterfly area. But, what would be so hard about making a new over-sized butterfly? It's just a piece of aluminum sheet metal. From looking at the back of the TB casting in the pictures I saw, it would appear that there is plenty of meat there to allow taking out another 2mm or so.
Re: Throttle Body "Drilled & Epoxied"
Oh, OK I've already done the throttle stop mod, and I did use Autotap to get it right on. After I made that post I found a few how-to's on TB porting, learned that people avoid the butterfly area. But, what would be so hard about making a new over-sized butterfly? It's just a piece of aluminum sheet metal. From looking at the back of the TB casting in the pictures I saw, it would appear that there is plenty of meat there to allow taking out another 2mm or so.
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Re: Throttle Body "Drilled & Epoxied" If you mill away 2mm you should get a substantial increase in airflow. If you can run a lathe you should be able to fabricate a new butterfly in your sleep. You should also mill away the HUMP in front of the butterfly while your at it. That hump narrows down the ID of the TB.
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Verdad Gallardo Re: Throttle Body "Drilled & Epoxied" Yes, since I made those other posts I've learned you can gain a good amount just by cleaning up the stock air horn in front of the butterfly. At first I didn't understand how people were porting them because I could tell they were re-using the stock butterfly; I just assumed porting mean over-boring as well. True I could easily bore mine and cut a new butterfly, but I learned the problem with that is the TB will no longer fit on the intake manifold if I do that. Seems there is not enough meat in the intake to hardly bore it at all, and the gasket is a thin o-ring like thing very close to the edge. Looks like it would take a whole lot of JB weld or that Devcon no. 10110 Plastic Steel Putty to build it up. I decided that would be pretty expensive for the amount of gain I would get on my stock displacement engine, unless there is a cheaper material that would work.
