160 T-Stat.....Questions
160 T-Stat.....Questions I did some searching but didn't really find a thread that specifically answered my questions......
I'm considering the Hypertech 160 T-Stat.......I have a Superchips hand held tuner that has an option on it for the fans to come on earlier if a 160 T-Stat is installed......
Pros?
Cons?
My car seems to run/pull better when its not completely warmed up.
I'm considering the Hypertech 160 T-Stat.......I have a Superchips hand held tuner that has an option on it for the fans to come on earlier if a 160 T-Stat is installed......
Pros?
Cons?
My car seems to run/pull better when its not completely warmed up.
the hotter your car the less horsepower...personally i would get the thing wee the fans are always on ...like 25 bucks prolly
the 160 stat is like 60 bucks ...but either way you are right your car pulls better when its cold
the 160 stat is like 60 bucks ...but either way you are right your car pulls better when its cold
Not going to gain much with that thermostat but you will gain
consistency by running the fans smarter, regardless. I'd leave
the stock 'stat and set low fans for about 190F and high at 195.
The stock 'stat runs about 194 while the Hype-Tech "160" is
about 177F in real world coolant temp.
consistency by running the fans smarter, regardless. I'd leave
the stock 'stat and set low fans for about 190F and high at 195.
The stock 'stat runs about 194 while the Hype-Tech "160" is
about 177F in real world coolant temp.
I do not even run a thermostat now. Before that, I had a 160* so it would have lowered the temps during the summer. I did not see a performance gain from it. I would spend your money else where and change the fan parameters like Jimmy suggested.
yes the car has an operating temp. but a 160 stat will not allow the engine to operate below that temp.
one of the reasons car builders run higher temps is to reduce emmissions, but that temp is not always the best for performance.
resetting the fans isn't even required with a stat swap, since fans have little to nothing to do with operating temps when the car is moving (highway or steady driving). the fan setting will keep your car cooler when sitting in traffic though.
one thing that affects how your car "feels" when cold is heat soak. the 160 stat probably won't help enough with that in the real world.
one of the reasons car builders run higher temps is to reduce emmissions, but that temp is not always the best for performance.
resetting the fans isn't even required with a stat swap, since fans have little to nothing to do with operating temps when the car is moving (highway or steady driving). the fan setting will keep your car cooler when sitting in traffic though.
one thing that affects how your car "feels" when cold is heat soak. the 160 stat probably won't help enough with that in the real world.
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One of the reasons you car might run better when cold is it is in open loop mode. If you notice a big difference, have your car checked on it's tune to see if you possibly are running too lean or too rich when in closed loop.
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Not going to gain much with that thermostat but you will gain consistency by running the fans smarter, regardless. I'd leave
the stock 'stat and set low fans for about 190F and high at 195.
The stock 'stat runs about 194 while the Hype-Tech "160" is
about 177F in real world coolant temp.
the stock 'stat and set low fans for about 190F and high at 195.
The stock 'stat runs about 194 while the Hype-Tech "160" is
about 177F in real world coolant temp.
I ran the lower temp t stat mainly because I have to run my stock trans cooler as it actually helps warm up the trans in the winter and I don't want to redo all my trans lines from summer to winter to bypass the stock one. in the summer though with the stock t-stat the trans (FLt tranny and Vig 3600 stall) was still getting way too hot in traffic even with 2 Aux coolers on the car and a separate fan. When I put a 180 in there there was a dramatic decrease in trans temps so I put a 160 in and the trans ran cool enough that I even took 1 of the Aux coolers off the car and now just have 1 good cooler with its own fan on it.
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Taxme, Ohio
I don't get it. The biggest reason for lowering your operating temps is so you can advance timing without detonation. Tuners, mechanical and biological want a little lower operating temperature so they can advance timing. Adding octane with more cooling allows even more timing.
Obviously all thermostats open fully at some point. A lower temp stat doesn't really make for lower temperatures other than it gives the cooling system a head start. Lower thresholds for fan on and off is the bigger factor as per mr. jimmyblue.
Obviously all thermostats open fully at some point. A lower temp stat doesn't really make for lower temperatures other than it gives the cooling system a head start. Lower thresholds for fan on and off is the bigger factor as per mr. jimmyblue.
Thermostat only sets the minimum coolant temp; on a car not
rolling fast, the fans and radiator heat-throw and motor heat
output set the upper temperature limit. The upper temp is what
limits your ability to push timing and the cold / normal operation
gets to live with it. You can tune with the ECT adders to fit it up
tighter but nobody does, I think. Takes too long to find all the
"corners" and dope out a proper timing vs temperature relation
that will hold up. Way easier to just get ECT to stay in a tight
range (fans, and for us Southern folks a bigger radiator maybe).
rolling fast, the fans and radiator heat-throw and motor heat
output set the upper temperature limit. The upper temp is what
limits your ability to push timing and the cold / normal operation
gets to live with it. You can tune with the ECT adders to fit it up
tighter but nobody does, I think. Takes too long to find all the
"corners" and dope out a proper timing vs temperature relation
that will hold up. Way easier to just get ECT to stay in a tight
range (fans, and for us Southern folks a bigger radiator maybe).