I have a 1977 Datsun 280Z with a 98 Camaro Z28 LS1 and T56 running into a 3.70:1 R200 LSD. Engine is new to me so have several questions.
1) Rev limiter is currently at 6,000. Is 6,500 feasible/practical/dangerous?
2) Intake is 7" conical K&M to MAF, right angle bend to TB.
K&N is right behind radiator. Is 7" K&N too small? Anything to be gained by pulling air from in front of radiator? ~how much?
3) Exhaust is shorty headers with 1.5" primaries to 2.5" collectors. @.5" pipes run to a collector 'Y' just aft of transmission to single 2.5" pipe last 5' into 2.5" 'turbo' muffler. Is 2.5" single pipe hurting? Should I go to 3" or 3.5" single pipe & muffler?
Dyno run was 311 RWHP with 326 lb-ft of torque. Torque drops like a rock after about 5,200 rpm.
Thanks!

 

Do you have any pictures of that setup? Sounds interesting!

If you have the stock valve springs and pushrods, then I wouldn't bump the rev limiter. My limiter is currently at 6700 RPM, but I have Comp 918 springs, hardened pushrods, and a low-lift cam (.510). Before installing the cam, springs and pushrods, I bent pushrods twice even with the stock limiter by banging the limiter once too many times on the first occasion, and a mechanical overrev from a 3-2 shift the second. Stock valvetrains on the LS1's suck, IMO.

Based on those numbers, I'm guessing you have a 2001 or newer LS1 motor with the LS6 intake.

Here is another dyno chart for comparison so you can get an idea where the torque drops off. Dropping at 5200 RPM sounds about right:

 

Engine is totally stock 98 or 99 Camaro Z28. LS1 head, not LS6. If you go to the HybridZ.org web site, albums, and look under the one for Phantom you can see a couple shots of the car and of the engine install.
I'll leave the rev limiter alone.
Any opinions on the intake or exhaust?

 

You would certainly benefit from a set of Longtubes or even mid-lengths running into a 3" ypipe/catback setup. (probably pick up 15 rwhp or so from that).

You didn't mention..but do you have an U/D pulley? That will certainly help you as well.

 

Nope - don't have an underdrive pulley but also don't have power steering (amazing how easy a 2,800 lb car is to steer). I also have a high efficiency Japanese AC compressor that uses about 75% of normal GM compressor HP to run - but that makes no matter if it's not turned on.
Forget the longtubes. This is a Datsun and it's about a foot narrower than the F bodies. No place to run longtubes. Even the shorties are totally custom to fit the space available. Steering arm to rack runs through the driver side motor mount. Very tight fit side-to-side but lots of room front and rear and the important stuff is much more accessable than on a typical F body. Have to see to appreciate.

 

I have a '70 240Z that may end up with an LS1 in it. That thing only weighed 2250lbs in original trim, and I don't think the LS1 weighs much more that the original cast iron deep-skirt block I-6.

 

You can safely raise the rev limiter to 6200 RPM since that is what it is set to on all the F-bodies. 6000 is going to cut off the very top of your HP peak since most stock engines peak out around 5900 RPM.

That intake setup should be sufficient but if you have the option to suck in air from under the car away from the radiator, that would be best. LS1s are very heavy breathers, and any restriction on the intake or exhaust can really limit performance.

As Ebbsnflows said, LTs are the way to go, however, I understand in a custom setup like you have, that might not be an option. I don't know how good you are with exhausts, but if you can get someone to fabricate for you a 1.75" header that is equal length, you will see even better numbers than you do now. For the BEST possible setup, you would want a LT header that is stepped 2-2-1, instead of the standard 4-1 single collector.

311HP/326TQ is right where a stock 01-02 F-body would be running. So it sounds to me like your engine is running as good as it could with no serious restrictions. As I'm sure you're learning the LS1 responds VERY well to mods, so the sky is really the limit. You can very easily reach 350-360RWHP with all boltons, you can easily reach 400RWHP with just a cam and boltons with stock heads, and with some stage 2 heads, cam, and all boltons, 450-475RWHP is possible.

So far, only one person has come close to 500 RWHP stock displacement, naturally aspirated without nitrous, but I firmly believe with one or two more years of LS1 performance development, 500RWHP will be obtainable on a more regular basis!

Welcome to the board, and good luck with everything, and for the love of god....give us some pictures of that setup!

 

New to how to use this forum and have no idea how to attach pictures here. Someone help me out. If you go to: www.hybridz.org, then to the "albums", then to the personal album of "Phantom" you'll see pictures of my conversion.
BUT - I still need to know how to post them here!

 

You need an account to view anything on that site, and I dont feel like registering. If you want, I can host your pictures for you. Email them to me at eckmanmj@comcast.net and I'll post em tonight.

 

An LS6 intake manifold ($435), ported throttle body ($100), and a 3" exhaust after the y-pipe are all going to give you a nice increase. Try to put the air filter in front of the radiator as the hot air can cause detonation in the engine. A new cam, springs, retainers, and hardened pushrods would not be a bad idea if you want to be able to rev higher (6600-6800 rpm).

 

Constrictor - Three photos on their way to you now.
Strokedls1 - Good info for a start on improving performance.
Thanks guys for the help.

 

I agree with the above statements.....without an LS6 intake and only 2.5" exhaust, your topend is going to be weak!

 

Heres the pictures:

 

Constrictor,
Thanks for posting the pics for me. One obvious thing about the first photo is that there is a lot more room under the hood than most folks give the little Z cars credit for. The only real space problems occur down at the frame rails on both sides, especially on hte driver's side where the steering gear arm goes down to the rack. In this installationit actually passes through the engine mount. Nice thing though is that all the spark plugs are easily accessible.

 

Cool Car!

 

That thing is sweet. Nice ride!

Dope

 

Now that takes me back. A good friend of mine from HS and his dad collected 280 ZXs. Have you by chance heard of "The Z Doc"?

 

I would consider custom making a set of headers for that application. If you can't get them to fit run a set of 2000 and later manifolds and make a custom mandrel 2.5 inch Ypipe into a 3 inch collector and go three inch back from there. That should net you around 330-340RWHP depending on other mods.
Routing the K&N in front of the rad is definitely a good idea. I would use the largest unit you can find. Also descreen your MAF if you haven't already and run do the throttle body coolant bypass.

Sounds like a neat project! Congrats!

ps- Just swap in a set of 2002 LS6 springs if you want to raise the limiter to 6600rpm. Those springs will easily handle the stock cam lift and duration at that rpm.

 

WOW, I NEVER would've thought someone would post this hybrid on this board.I have the exact same car as you and plan on doing pretty much the exact same thing. I hope you dont mind me following your footsteps b/c I can only dream about how low the ET is going to be.I've read about another 280z that put a 350 in it that ran a low 9 all day long, and the guy didnt even go overboard on mods.
If you dont mind me asking,exactly how much do you think this whole project is going to cost you? Just wondering how much money Im going to spend on the perfect combo of car and engine. Thanks for posting that link, looks like Ill be spending most of my time on its forums. Cant wait to see some times.

 

Dude, that is a nice setup! Do you have any track times or videos? I'd love to see it in action! If anyone hasn't seen it go to http://darius240z.com/240z.htm This guy has a 240z with an LT1 ati procharged...he has some cool videos...It is bad news!