160 T stat......worth it???
Thanks!!

In the old days we used to go as far as totaly removing stats on sbc's ( in summer or for track)
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Someone correctly pointed out that it only dictates the opening and closing.
Just for reference: My LT1 car with Hypertech 160 stat and and lower fan trigger points runs 175-185 F. My '01 SS needs the 160 stat to keep coolant at 210 !!! due to the Vortech setup.

Note: GM factory temp gauges are "ballpark figure" accurate. Put the car on Autotap or similar monitoring to get your true coolant temp. My '94 suffers no degradation in performance by being "too cold" according to doing runs with Auto X-ray monitoring.
BTW, Venkman's example is a true story (but on a F*rd product). On some vehicles it is possible to run "too" cold if your computer has a "warm-up only " mode.
My 1st fan is set to come on at 190* and the 2nd comes on at 200*. I see this a lot. Both fans come on at the same time. In low speed mode, the fans are in series and run slower at 6 volts each. When the PCM calls for more cooling, it switches them from series to parallel, running on 12 volts each.
Larry's hotwater tests (I've done them too) also supports this.
Somebody mentioned the LS1 making best power at 180. That is true. The test that I saw showed best power at 178...but we're talking tiny differences. There wouldn't really be much difference between 170 and 200. What's more important on the dyno are the temps (and therefore the viscosities) of the lubricating fluids from the engine all the way to the rearend.





