I put my "new" ported intake on and now it revs higher and the exhaust pops every 3 seconds or so. When I press on the gas and it goes to 2k rpms it will stay there for probably 5 seconds then slowly go back down. The idle is probably 300 rpms higher than normal. Any advice?

 

Sounds like a vacuum leak, check for a leak in a hose someplace

 

I'm pretty sure there is no leak. I just checked. It also smokes a little bit. It's white smoke.

 

It is throwing 5 codes. The check engine light was on before the swap tho. I have the following codes.

PO102 MAF VAF circut low input
PO103 MAF VAF circut high input
PO803 104 upshift solenoid circut
PO135 Bank 1 sensor 1 02 sense heater circut malfunction
PO155 Bank 2 sensor...circut malfunction

When I start the car it idles normal like nothin is wrong. When I give it gas or move the RPMs go up 400 more. When i'm driving and go to neutral the rpms go to 2k until I come to a complete stop then the rpms finally go back down. Oh and the guy I bought the car from had the 1-4 skip shift tuned out so how in the hell can it come back? Need to get it retuned? ****!

 

I'm curious, why did you replace the intake and with what?

To me, sounds like vac leak. Check all the hoses, front to back. Check your MAP sensor.

 

Maybe one of your intake gaskets didnt seal, and causing this leak. The leak can be on the inside of the manifold is why you cant hear it. Like between two cylinders. You reuse your old gaskets? Its not a problem, but one of them could have rolled while installing and got pinched between the two intake ports.

 

hmmmm?? recheck all your vac lines. I think there are two on the back that are easy to miss. Also whats up with the maf codes? make sure nothing is in the plug in on that or any water. My car did this for awhile in the process of removing parts and stuff it eventually went away. so I would guess a leak of some sort.

 

That weird your getting a MAF code. This might not be a intake swap related at all. Seems like the car might have a couple other issues causing it to run ruff. Keep me informed.

 

If you don't have scanning software (not a code reader) I would either buy it or go to someone that does. It would be useful to monitor the readings of the MAF, MAP sensors to see what they are doing.

You could spray some carb cleaner around the intake, vacuum hoses, sensors etc. to see if you have a vacuum leak. Is the rubber seal on the nipple for the MAP sensor?

 

My boy and I swapped out his stock LS1 intake with a 92mm FAST intake on his '00 TA and it is doing the same thing. I'm 90% sure it ISN'T a vac leak as i can't hear one and was extremely careful when re-installing the new intake. The only "whistling" i hear is the insane amount of air the new intake sucks in when he rev's it; nothing at idle. I think it is b/c he also installed headers; so now he has headers & a 92mm intake and running the STOCK tune w/ the STOCK MAF. I just think the A/F ratio and tune is out of wack.

The white smoke, at leats in my case, is the spilled coolant burning off when i had to swap coolant lines on the block.

Codes, idk, i didn't bring my scan tool to his house.

IDK, i will keep u posted as to what we find out when he gets his car tune; please do the same. I'm subscribing to this.

 

Under the stock LS1 intake there is a gap for coolant lines. your fast intake wont have this gap, you need to reroute the coolant lines, or put in coolant lines for a 2001/2002 LS1 (these has the LS6 style intake with also had less gap underneath). If you managed to get this intake on the car and got the intake ports to seal then there will surely be some damage under the intake if the coolant line mod wasn't done.

 

no i did that

 

I sprayed carb cleaner all around...No revving..no leaks. I have checked the vacuum lines 985 times. I emailed a guy to see what a simple street tune will run me. I guess i'm going to get some new 02 sensors and try a tune?

 

Also if you still throwin a MAF code make sure the wires aren't damaged inside the MAF. I'd also try cleaning the MAF just to see if it'll help. I know if they get dirty or damaged it'll make the car run like poo.

 

I kno these sounds dumb. But Ill throw it out anyway. You disconect your battery when you did the swap? And reconnect to find the car doing this?

 

Nope. Battery stayed connected.

 

yes; why?

 

had the same problem, and it took forever to figure out.. First was the valley bolts. Make sure you use the ones provided with the intake. Then was the intake bolts, which I thought I had tight, just the way they showed in the manual, but the had worked loose. You wont hear it sitting there at idle, but going down the road, you will see or smell some oil. That oil is coming from your not sealing intake. Pull off the intake and look for oil on the heads, all the way to the back.

Clean it all up, put something around the map sensor to seal that up, and tighten the intake bolts, over, and over, and over, and over. It took me about 8-10 times before I felt that if I tightened them any more, it would crack.. Surprise, the iradic idle went away.. Figure it out before you take it in for a tune, otherwise, your tune will be worthless.. Dont rule out the TB seal.. Good luck.

 

*see above*

 

Been adjusting the tb blade and the idle has gone down to only going up about 3-400 rpms above the normal idle. Now here's my question... When I drive the car and put it in neutral the rpms go up..now when I come to a complete stop the rpms go back down. Even when i'm rolling at 2 mph, the rpms will go up without pushing the gas at all! Do you think it is the computer doing this? Everything is hooked up perfect. Only new thing with this intake is that it's been ported... Do you guys think a new tune will fix this?? Thanks for everyone's input!!!