Stalled+cam ls1's suck
#1
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Ok I was kidding about the title but was just wondering if anyone had an upgraded cam in a non stalled a4 car. Read the sticky that said any cam upgrade should be done after a stall but I really don't want to stall my car. Just want that nice chopping sound
Was thinking about the TR230/224-111. Website says that it just needs a tune. Anyone?
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Get the stall. Cams have a great reputation so people will dive into their engine where there are a million ways to **** something up but the "Big" gain is worth the risk.
Stalls have a shitty reputation but are simply REQUIRED to support your cam. The install is way quicker and less technical than a cam's. This isn't high school in the 70s where your buddy put a 5500 converter behind his old 350 and couldn't figure out why he launched like a turd.
Same goddamn ? over and over!
1 Choose the right cam for YOU
2 Spec the right stall
3 Install them both
4 Get a tune
5![Headbang](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/headbang.gif)
Or...... drive a dog. And quit asking!
Stalls have a shitty reputation but are simply REQUIRED to support your cam. The install is way quicker and less technical than a cam's. This isn't high school in the 70s where your buddy put a 5500 converter behind his old 350 and couldn't figure out why he launched like a turd.
Same goddamn ? over and over!
1 Choose the right cam for YOU
2 Spec the right stall
3 Install them both
4 Get a tune
5
![Headbang](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/headbang.gif)
Or...... drive a dog. And quit asking!
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You'll need the stall to make the car drive close to how it did before the cam. I put a Circle D 3000 stall in my CETA when pre-cam and picked up 4 tenths in the quarter mile and got used to the stall on the street in a day or two. After the 226 cam, the car doesn't even feel stalled anymore but drives just like it did stock. Prob should have gone 3600 but the car is a DD and drives great now anyway. I'll go 3600 when the tranny goes
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#9
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For quite a while I was running an XER Based 223/228 106/106 in a 347ci backed with a stock verter 4L80E, 3.73's and 26" tall tire. Power brakes and power steering. This was in a 3,900lb 63 pick up. Local bolt on F-body's might have gated me a little due to the stall in the truck, but mph I was chasing them down.
Would a stall of helped. Hell yah, but can you run a cam with out a stall, yes.
Would a stall of helped. Hell yah, but can you run a cam with out a stall, yes.
#10
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For quite a while I was running an XER Based 223/228 106/106 in a 347ci backed with a stock verter 4L80E, 3.73's and 26" tall tire. Power brakes and power steering. This was in a 3,900lb 63 pick up. Local bolt on F-body's might have gated me a little due to the stall in the truck, but mph I was chasing them down.
Would a stall of helped. Hell yah, but can you run a cam with out a stall, yes.
Would a stall of helped. Hell yah, but can you run a cam with out a stall, yes.
oh and I assume you didnt pull that 1.669 60ft on a stock stall did you.
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If you dd your car. You won't be happy very long without a stall with any decent sized cam. Like others said, unless you're going to do a m6 swap. Get a stall. It's probably one of the best mods for an a4. Even if all else was bone stock.
#13
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Good suggestion by Lemons12 on the setup cheap and effective
OP is there a reason you are looking at a reverse split cam? And that 111 will make it chop hard but be unfriendly to a stock stall even more, the 111 is not the only factor in the chop the more duration you have the more overlap you have that causes the chop, the LSA does also, and 111 is pretty narrow, you just need to know what your getting into with that cam, and that is a bad choice for a stock stall.
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**** maybe vigs are on and yanks are tight I dunno, I drove a car the other cay that was a "yank" 4K and it was sloppy as pig slit, very inefficient on the low end, but my comparison may not be a proper one either, I have the Pro Yank, it is made for up 1000 rwhp cars so it may require more power to get it to slip to its rated stall???
Its hard to say, not enough stalled cars running around I can spend time in and feel the differences, let alone if the people would let me drive them, thats the shitty part about stalls, so many out there with different storys it makes them hard to pick, but im with you buy a big name and you will at least knock out a better part of the issues with stalls from the start.
#19
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**** maybe vigs are on and yanks are tight I dunno, I drove a car the other cay that was a "yank" 4K and it was sloppy as pig slit, very inefficient on the low end, but my comparison may not be a proper one either, I have the Pro Yank, it is made for up 1000 rwhp cars so it may require more power to get it to slip to its rated stall???
Its hard to say, not enough stalled cars running around I can spend time in and feel the differences, let alone if the people would let me drive them, thats the shitty part about stalls, so many out there with different storys it makes them hard to pick, but im with you buy a big name and you will at least knock out a better part of the issues with stalls from the start.
Its hard to say, not enough stalled cars running around I can spend time in and feel the differences, let alone if the people would let me drive them, thats the shitty part about stalls, so many out there with different storys it makes them hard to pick, but im with you buy a big name and you will at least knock out a better part of the issues with stalls from the start.
#20
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Dude you are gonna need a stall. I drove my car for a couple of days with no stall because ups didn't deliver to the right address and man was it a pain in the *** to drive. Do yourself a favor and listen to us when we tell you to get a stall. It doesn't have to be a big one but get one