Rear Main Seal: Change or Not w/ Clutch??
10-12-2008, 06:20 PM
#1
Rear Main Seal: Change or Not w/ Clutch?? I have a 97 vette with 47k mi and I'm changing the clutch with a head/cam upgrade.
The rear main seal is dry as a bone and doesn't show any dry rot but is 12 yrs old. Should I change it as preventative maintenance or leave well enough alone as they don't seem prone to leak.
Thanks for any experience or recommendations
The rear main seal is dry as a bone and doesn't show any dry rot but is 12 yrs old. Should I change it as preventative maintenance or leave well enough alone as they don't seem prone to leak.
Thanks for any experience or recommendations
10-12-2008, 06:36 PM
#3
about as pissed as I'd be if it started to leak after I put a new one in. Has anyone has changed their rear main seal and had the new one leak?
A couple people have told me if it aint broke dont fix it, but the fact that it's 12 yrs old. I don't know wheather they degrade more with time (age) or milage.
I cant go into this car again, this is the second time in 5 months because the clutch I put in had a manufacturer defect.
I guess I'm invoking murphy if I don't
A couple people have told me if it aint broke dont fix it, but the fact that it's 12 yrs old. I don't know wheather they degrade more with time (age) or milage.
I cant go into this car again, this is the second time in 5 months because the clutch I put in had a manufacturer defect.
I guess I'm invoking murphy if I don't
Last edited by dmiz0420; 10-12-2008 at 06:44 PM.
10-12-2008, 07:17 PM
#6
This isn't like the front seal that MUST come off with the timing set cover to service the top end. It's a no brainer to change the front seal, but if the real is "dry as a bone and doesn't show any signs of rot" as you say the old cliche applies. If it ain't broke don't fix it!
10-12-2008, 07:57 PM
#7
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Typically, in the past, I would always change it. BUT, as it's been stated, they are real touchy. Trust me, it's a real kick in the nuts when you do a clutch swap (and put in a new seal) and you get a leak.
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10-12-2008, 11:38 PM
#10
I changed mine, leaked before still F'ing leaks
Long story short, leave it, long story below.
In my 4X4 truck I had the tranny out and said to myself man I sure would hate if this thing leaked after I had the tranny out, I changed it, did NOT leak before, DID leak after.
I think its up to you, but I am starting to change my feelings on replacing them while they are there. I would have always said before, better do it while your there.
I think the main thing is to get one from the dealer though, both mine were Fel Pro which is usally as good as and sometimes better than dealer/factory.
The LS1 may also have a special install procedure ( more to do with the gasket plate, not the gasket ) considering the plate is removable, maybe a special centering procedure to make sure the seal is 100% centered?, I removed the plate and replaced that gasket on it with that attitude, do it while im there.
I dunno I do know there are revised seals out there, saw that after I did my install. Still havent found any good answers to the revised seal and plate thing.
Long story short, leave it, long story below.
In my 4X4 truck I had the tranny out and said to myself man I sure would hate if this thing leaked after I had the tranny out, I changed it, did NOT leak before, DID leak after.
I think its up to you, but I am starting to change my feelings on replacing them while they are there. I would have always said before, better do it while your there.
I think the main thing is to get one from the dealer though, both mine were Fel Pro which is usally as good as and sometimes better than dealer/factory.
The LS1 may also have a special install procedure ( more to do with the gasket plate, not the gasket ) considering the plate is removable, maybe a special centering procedure to make sure the seal is 100% centered?, I removed the plate and replaced that gasket on it with that attitude, do it while im there.
I dunno I do know there are revised seals out there, saw that after I did my install. Still havent found any good answers to the revised seal and plate thing.
10-13-2008, 08:29 AM
#11
So I'd say that's a 6 to 1 to leave it. Last night I was convinced I was going to change it. Now I'm leaning toward leaving it.
Sounds like most of the problems withthe new seal leaking is the alignment of the rear cover plate. Which makes me wonder if it is better to change it without removing the cover. I didn't have any problem with the front timing cover when I put a new seal in with the cam and pulley.
What is the bar bell thing that every one says to be sure you don't loose when you take the cover off?
The car has been garaged for the 12 yrs, but I do HPDE it at the track and I definately enjoy pushing the car. Still as I looked at it last night, it's totally dry. The thing that sucks is if I change it, I won't know if it leaks till it's all back together. LOL...
This is good, keep em coming.
Sounds like most of the problems withthe new seal leaking is the alignment of the rear cover plate. Which makes me wonder if it is better to change it without removing the cover. I didn't have any problem with the front timing cover when I put a new seal in with the cam and pulley.
What is the bar bell thing that every one says to be sure you don't loose when you take the cover off?
The car has been garaged for the 12 yrs, but I do HPDE it at the track and I definately enjoy pushing the car. Still as I looked at it last night, it's totally dry. The thing that sucks is if I change it, I won't know if it leaks till it's all back together. LOL...
This is good, keep em coming.
Last edited by dmiz0420; 10-13-2008 at 08:43 AM.
10-13-2008, 10:01 AM
#12
So I'd say that's a 6 to 1 to leave it. Last night I was convinced I was going to change it. Now I'm leaning toward leaving it.
Sounds like most of the problems withthe new seal leaking is the alignment of the rear cover plate. Which makes me wonder if it is better to change it without removing the cover. I didn't have any problem with the front timing cover when I put a new seal in with the cam and pulley.
What is the bar bell thing that every one says to be sure you don't loose when you take the cover off?
The car has been garaged for the 12 yrs, but I do HPDE it at the track and I definately enjoy pushing the car. Still as I looked at it last night, it's totally dry. The thing that sucks is if I change it, I won't know if it leaks till it's all back together. LOL...
This is good, keep em coming.
Sounds like most of the problems withthe new seal leaking is the alignment of the rear cover plate. Which makes me wonder if it is better to change it without removing the cover. I didn't have any problem with the front timing cover when I put a new seal in with the cam and pulley.
What is the bar bell thing that every one says to be sure you don't loose when you take the cover off?
The car has been garaged for the 12 yrs, but I do HPDE it at the track and I definately enjoy pushing the car. Still as I looked at it last night, it's totally dry. The thing that sucks is if I change it, I won't know if it leaks till it's all back together. LOL...
This is good, keep em coming.
I dont know about the bearing you are talking about, there wasnt anything there on mine, thought I just had, worked with a guy a while back and he went to the dealer to get a rear main seal for his chevy 5.3 truck ( same engine design as the LS1 if your not familiar ) They made him buy the plate with gasket in it, as in there is some revision there, so maybe there is something up with the plate?
10-13-2008, 10:15 AM
#13
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Leave it alone. It wont rot in the future anyway. If you pull that rear cover off and replace you are really risking a small mistake that can result in a leak. Just leave it be.
10-13-2008, 10:35 AM
#14
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Leave it... dropping everything to get to the RMS in a C5 is 10x harder than dropping the trans in an F-body. You will be pissed if you replace it and it leaks and you have to go through all that again, to fix something that was not broke in the first place. I know I would!
10-14-2008, 10:04 PM
#16
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Less overwhelming than replacing it, installing the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, reinstalling your headers (because if you have longtubes you gotta drop em to get the access cover off the bottom) reinstalling the trans, diff, and torque tube, reinstalling the rear cradle, axles, rear suspension, then putting the shifter back in and putting your interior back together, because unlike an f-body you have to tear the whole console out, and getting the car back together, going for a drive, and having your seal that was previously dry as a bone leak everywhere? Yeah, that does seem less overwhelming.
Leave well enough alone.
Leave well enough alone.
10-15-2008, 05:09 AM
#18
Wow you guys are wimps. There is a new updated seal that you can just pound in with out taking the cover off! The damn seal has two notches on it to pry out with a screw driver. It takes less than 2 minutes to pop the old one out, just make sure you buy the new updated one from GM, sorry I forgot the part number but it seals the opposite direction as the original. I replaced mine when I did the transmission and it has not leaked at all. I also put some gasket sealer on there just in case. Also there is some very fine print on the gasket that says "this side out" make sure you put it in the right way.
