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Dyno'd my Heads Cam What do you guys think?

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Old 11-28-2008, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JJD49
The only true RAM AIR is Forced Induction
Not true and proven many times, let us not beat that poor horse again.
Old 11-28-2008, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by JJD49
The only true RAM AIR is Forced Induction
you sure about that bud...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...sults-tom.html

25rwhp and this is a cam only setup, heads will see a higher gain...
Old 11-28-2008, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by chrs1313
you sure about that bud...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...sults-tom.html

25rwhp and this is a cam only setup, heads will see a higher gain...
Compare it to a CAI. Anything is a improvement over a stock unit with factory filter
Old 11-28-2008, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Not true and proven many times, let us not beat that poor horse again.
I was only joking with everyone
Old 11-28-2008, 02:56 PM
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Through a manual, I would expect about 440ish myself.

My auto with a 234/226 reverse split and LS6 ported heads... Most other mods being the same other than injectors, made 424/395. Thats through a big stall..... So I would expect higher numbers out of a similarly modded m6
Old 11-28-2008, 03:03 PM
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should i get a bigger maf and intake?
Old 11-28-2008, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JJD49
Compare it to a CAI. Anything is a improvement over a stock unit with factory filter
wasnt a stock unit it was the same K&N filter with a 85mm FTRA lid...just breathing from the stock slit in the front...stock breathing not stock unit

I have proved in other posts that you can see upwards of 6" H20 pressure inside the lid, that is after the pressure drop of the filter with a ram air setup, doing 100mph...you will never see positive pressure with just a CAI...only vacuum...

and yes how often do you do 100mph well i do it for almost 1/2 of the 1/4 mile track...and the kicker is even at low speeds of around 20 mph there was still positive pressure at WOT...

that alone is proof...look at my times if you think it doesnt work...it helps more than you think
Old 11-28-2008, 10:25 PM
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I would have argued against the ram air helping much over a good lid until I data logged mine and saw 130* IAT's on a 78 degree day. I will soon be either buying or building a CAI.
Old 11-29-2008, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by troopercar
I would have argued against the ram air helping much over a good lid until I data logged mine and saw 130* IAT's on a 78 degree day. I will soon be either buying or building a CAI.
I have never seen my IATs go that high. Even on 90+ degree days. Maybe if I was stuck in a bunch of stop and go traffic.
Old 11-29-2008, 05:15 PM
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Mine did, unless my sensor is bad
Old 11-29-2008, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by troopercar
Mine did, unless my sensor is bad
Maybe the sensor is bad. Just don't know. I have a Omega Non Thermistor sensor on my GTO. It reacts so much faster then a stock unit. If I am stuck in traffic for a long time and my IATs climb, they will start to drop as soon as my car starts moving again.
Old 11-29-2008, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
hmmm i cannot wait to get heads. CAM only i made 404/375.. SAE i made 415/378.....
all on my 228/232 baby cam
who's 228/232 cam are you running?
Old 11-29-2008, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JJD49
Maybe the sensor is bad. Just don't know. I have a Omega Non Thermistor sensor on my GTO. It reacts so much faster then a stock unit. If I am stuck in traffic for a long time and my IATs climb, they will start to drop as soon as my car starts moving again.
I have that thermistor and it does react to changing air temps much faster than the stock one.

I couldn't figure out why it was taking so long for my engine to get cooler air after I started moving and then as soon as I changed out the thermistor I saw why...the stock thermistor is just sluggish and takes about 8-10 seconds to report the correct temp!
Old 11-30-2008, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by wht01ws6ta
I have that thermistor and it does react to changing air temps much faster than the stock one.

I couldn't figure out why it was taking so long for my engine to get cooler air after I started moving and then as soon as I changed out the thermistor I saw why...the stock thermistor is just sluggish and takes about 8-10 seconds to report the correct temp!
It is a good item to have.
Old 11-30-2008, 05:10 PM
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Here's my sheet

Numbers arent low if you were running out of fuel @ 6200. I have the same cam, and GTP STG 2+ (was going to go w/ 5.3 2.5's til I found those) and had a similar fuel problem @ 6100-6200 and put down 435/388, just like you I haven't installed a UD pulley yet, and I also have 315's out back. W/ bigger injectors and fuel pump my tuner said I'd easily be in the 440's and recommended it's time for a ported 92/92 as well. All in all I'd say you (and I) have some pretty healthy setups, with much more room for improvement!

Last edited by '02 WS6; 11-30-2008 at 05:24 PM.
Old 11-30-2008, 06:56 PM
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I think it's a little low, but a buddy of mine recently put on a PRC heads and a 230/236 cam and made ~400/365. Are the TSP's the same as the PRC's? Anyways, maybe the heads aren't all that.... who knows. Maybe the cams aren't matching the heads...
Old 11-30-2008, 07:01 PM
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Yes they are the same.
Old 11-30-2008, 11:27 PM
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i got 315's out back aswell
Old 12-01-2008, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Before wou spend on intake, I would do a FTRA or similar Ram Air. Also when was the last time you cleaned your MAF.
Reason why I'm saying this is your injectors should have maxed out before 6200. Meaning your car is not getting enough air.
hmmmm.... what concludes that they should run out before then...?

I'm making more power and still on stockers... what factors determine when the injectors need to be upgraded?

Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
I'm not sure how you figure this. Look at his A/F flat line, not sure where it shows you runing out of fuel but it looks like a flat line to 6500 rpms? am I missing something? Is there another file he didnt post maybe?
i was wondering the same thing....




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