I have a '99 C5 Coupe w/LS1. The engine has 103k miles and has been extremely reliable and runs great. The car is a 6 speed with a 3.73 rearend, aluminum flywheel and pressure plate. I really enjoy the setup, it's very responsive and has enough power for now. The motor is completely stock. I run about 14 - 20 track days a year and have been doing it for 2 years now. I have coilovers, larger front and rear adjustable sway bars and run DOT tires at the track.
My problem is that as my driving has improved, I find myself at the rev limiter (6200) all the time and having to shift early or hang at the limiter for a few hundred yards. Most of the time at Watkins Glen this means 5th gear which is too high to pull the hill.

What I would like to do is bump my rev limit up to 6800 but I'm concerned about the valve train and rod bolts. I don't want to redo the entire top end. My plan right now is to change push rods, valve springs, seals and maybe retainers. Then replace the rod bolts with ARP's
I'm looking for recommendations on springs.
Also can you just take out the factory rod bolts and install the new ones without doing anything else? Can you just drop the oil pan and do this in the car?

I'm going to be leaving the motor stock except for these changes.

Any other advice of things to consider would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

 

The 99 rod bolts aren't as strong as the later year rod bolts. Might want to keep that in mind. Changing the bolts would be good as would upgrading the valve train if you want to spin to 6,800 rpm.

 

+1 on the 99 rod bolts. Also not sure that your stock springs are gonna like that high of rpm.

 

i would replace the springs and put arp rod bolts in. i spin my cam only car to 7000 and its stock bottom end and stock heads with upgraded springs

 

spend the money and upgrade the valve train if your going to raise the rev limiter to 6800 or above its well worth it in the long run

 

No reason to spin a stock motor that high...The stock springs will float at 6300 and the stock cam falls on its face at 5800 if that.

 

ive herd of people spinning bearings shortly after installing new rod bolts. im no expert but the bearings have a wear pattern, after 103k miles you are going to loosen them just to install new bolts, they are not going to seat exactly the same way. change the bearings at the same time.

go with the katech rod bolts because they are closer in weight to the stockers. ARP's are heavier and that will throw off the balance a bit.

 

Was 2000 the first year with the stronger rod bolts?

 

You swap the bolts one at a time and nothing moves at all. The cracked rod cap design makes it virtually impossible for the cap to shift. The Katechs claim the big end of the rod does not need resizing after installed and yes they are identical in weight to a stock one. FWIW I put a set of Katechs in my motor and have spun it to 7200 rpm's without issue.

 

your right, arps rod bolts suck thats why i spin my stock shortblock to 7000 every single pass and still make great power and oil pressure. Ive actually hit my revlimiter which is set at 7100.
need a bigger tire because im out of the powerband but that is irrelevant to the thread.

 

Mine is an 02 and it sees 6800 often. It only has 30k on it though.

 

my 99 has seen and hung out at 7500 on stock rod bolts.........

 

Thanks for the insight. This sounds like a plan.

 

I have been told it was 2001.

 

where did i say they suck? i said they are a bit heavier, that is a fact. i used to bounce a 1985 stock bottom end 2 bolt main sbc off the limiter at 7k all the time, ran like a champ

maybe it was a coinencedence but i have herd of a few people spinning bearings shortly after installing new rod bolts. maybe they didnt do them one at a time. mine as well replace the bearings while your in there. im not sure on ls1's but i know when ive replaced rod bearings before there is a torqing sequence. guess that wouldnt matter once the one side is already fully torqed though

 

2000 was the first year for the new rod bolts

 

Leave the rev limiter where its at if you are leaving it stock. If you want to spin it that high than its time for a cam, valvesprings and pushrods.

 

no one said they suck, but if you want to replace them with out re-balancing the engine they are not the bolts of choice

 

i wouldn't spin that high

 

I don't think it's irrelevant at all...I think it's the answer to the OP...a slightly taller road race tire to bring the RPM's back down a bit. Much less difference than a gear change and it might get you through the track without sitting on the rev limiter.

Where in central MA are you? I live in worcester, was wondering if some time when the weather is nice again (april) you'd mind letting me hear your car idle and maybe take me for a ride in it so I can see how that cam feels?