View Poll Results: What Will My RWHP be?
360-370 RWHP
2
5.00%
370-380 RWHP
1
2.50%
380-390 RWHP
5
12.50%
390-400 RWHP
15
37.50%
400-410 RWHP
10
25.00%
410-420 RWHP
7
17.50%
Voters: 40. You may not vote on this poll
college ms3 build
If your water pump is not broken there is really not reason to change it out. That would save you some money. I think your injectors are almost maxed but should work fine.
If you are not planing on racing or running a sticky tire your clutch could last a while.
If you just spinning your tires the clutch wont wear out that fast.
If you are not planing on racing or running a sticky tire your clutch could last a while.
If you just spinning your tires the clutch wont wear out that fast.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 48
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stock injectors are fine. i have the same cam in my car and still have a little room left in them. save the money and buy some headers and a ls6 intake if u dont already have them. trust me that thing is going to want to flow
yea i know they'd work but from what i read they'd b all but maxed out. might as well get some bigger ones so they can work easier i figure. im lookin into that clutch too thanks all.
im waitin on a reply on the headers and im still lookin for an ls6 intake. im for sure gettin both. i just figured while i was there i should change the water pump but i may leave it now since im gonna go ahead with the injectors... car only has like 65,000 on it so that water pump probably has some life left in it.
im waitin on a reply on the headers and im still lookin for an ls6 intake. im for sure gettin both. i just figured while i was there i should change the water pump but i may leave it now since im gonna go ahead with the injectors... car only has like 65,000 on it so that water pump probably has some life left in it.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 672
Likes: 3
From: Washington Crossing, PA
my injectors maxed out at 5800 so i had to change mine out. but if your trying to do this on a budget then why waste the money on dual elec cutouts? id use that money on the parts really needed.
9 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Kinston, NC
If your water pump is not broken there is really not reason to change it out. That would save you some money. I think your injectors are almost maxed but should work fine.
If you are not planing on racing or running a sticky tire your clutch could last a while.
If you just spinning your tires the clutch wont wear out that fast.
If you are not planing on racing or running a sticky tire your clutch could last a while.
If you just spinning your tires the clutch wont wear out that fast.
I would get some 36 lb. injectors.
wow... quite a few conflicting ideas here...
the water pump is always something ive replaced when ive gotten into anything serious on the motor so I probably will... just a stocker nothing special.
injectors im still looking for. judging by what ive found on ebay there are quite a few 42#'s around. The 36# ones ive found have only been a few dollars cheaper or the exact same price as the 42#'s so i figure ill just get the 42#'s.
electric cutouts I may wait on but i was thinking about fabbing my own cutouts into the Y pipe just where each side turns in toward the middle of the car behind the headers. Ill have to see what im dealing with for room but I thought it would be neat to just bring the cutouts straight back where the pipe turns so it is the most direct possible flow when the cutouts are open. just an idea though.
the water pump is always something ive replaced when ive gotten into anything serious on the motor so I probably will... just a stocker nothing special.
injectors im still looking for. judging by what ive found on ebay there are quite a few 42#'s around. The 36# ones ive found have only been a few dollars cheaper or the exact same price as the 42#'s so i figure ill just get the 42#'s.
electric cutouts I may wait on but i was thinking about fabbing my own cutouts into the Y pipe just where each side turns in toward the middle of the car behind the headers. Ill have to see what im dealing with for room but I thought it would be neat to just bring the cutouts straight back where the pipe turns so it is the most direct possible flow when the cutouts are open. just an idea though.
ok, couple more questions now. Ive been doing more research and things im finding related to the clutch are replacing the slave cylinder, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. Do I have to replace them while I'm in there? I'm also finding people say to change the rear main seal, so should I do that too?
The title is college build which implies budget build, but I am going to do this right while im in there... I don't want to do all this and then 5,000 miles later have the pilot bearing ruin everything. Just let me know if it needs/should be done and I'm going to do it.
The title is college build which implies budget build, but I am going to do this right while im in there... I don't want to do all this and then 5,000 miles later have the pilot bearing ruin everything. Just let me know if it needs/should be done and I'm going to do it.
Last edited by The Cook; Feb 9, 2009 at 04:42 PM.
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Here is my two cents. I have pretty much have the same set-up. MS3, stock ported heads with pacesetters and true dual set-up. On the stock injectors the duty cylce was around 95% at WOT. I really dont like to see anything over 80-85%. I put 42lbs/hr injectors in my car and had it tuned by texas speed they are right around 80% now. So with all that I would spring for injectors just to be safe that you wont run out of injector up top. As for the clutch that would be something I would do too. I have the spec stage 3+ in my car but since your on a budget I have heared great things about the LS7 clutch. Dont worry about the slave, throw out, water pump or rear main. Although its good perventitve matenaince your on a budget. I would spring for a pilot bearing just because they are cheap. You will enjoy the ms3 with this set-up my car made 408/373 on the mail order tune. Oh and the lifters the will be fine for a while but its something I would be changing in the near future. Get valve springs right away that cam will kill the stocker pretty quick. TSP sells the MS3 as a kit with springs I would look at that.
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: cleveland/dayton/cincinnati, ohio
I would skip the cut outs. Water pump is ok if you want to do it. As far as the clutch is concerned i have a ls7 kit and it is ok, deff a budget clutch but it will take your abuse. I dont remember if it was 2000 or 2001 when the hydraulics were changed but it might be a good idea to get a new slave and T.O. bearing, also i've heard great things about the Tick Perf. master cylinder but thats your call. At the very least i would get a power bleader from Tick, or LPP it will save you so much time and headache in the long run.
Just got off the phone with texas speed and they told me my stock lifters would be fine especially since it doesnt have an un godly amount of miles on it. LS7 clutch/flywheel/and pressure plate are on the way. Ive also got a set of 42# injcetors picked out. Still DESPRATELY trying to find an LS6 intake that isnt as expensive as a new FAST 92 (sarcasm)
Im getting the Cam/valvespring package#2 from TSP which has the PRC dual springs and the hardened pushrods.
kozak - it was 01 when they changed the master cylinder but i think im gonna see how mine works out for a while longer. but ill probably do the pilot and throwout bearings.
Planning on doing this build in 2 stages, first stage towards the end of feb. will be Intake/Clutch/Headers/ and the 2nd stage which will be over spring break and will be Cam/Springs/Oil Pump/Timing chain/ Injectors/Tune. My main thing is I want to do the intake BEFORE the cam/Oil pump swap that way if i break the oil sending unit i know it and dont have to guess weither its the sending unit or the pump like if i did them at the same time.
Im getting the Cam/valvespring package#2 from TSP which has the PRC dual springs and the hardened pushrods.
kozak - it was 01 when they changed the master cylinder but i think im gonna see how mine works out for a while longer. but ill probably do the pilot and throwout bearings.
Planning on doing this build in 2 stages, first stage towards the end of feb. will be Intake/Clutch/Headers/ and the 2nd stage which will be over spring break and will be Cam/Springs/Oil Pump/Timing chain/ Injectors/Tune. My main thing is I want to do the intake BEFORE the cam/Oil pump swap that way if i break the oil sending unit i know it and dont have to guess weither its the sending unit or the pump like if i did them at the same time.
ok so one real quick question. ive got all my stuff accumulated for stage 1 except the headers. I was planning on running the air/egr block off plates ne way so i should probably just order headers from TSP that are the race style right? or is there something else missing off the race headers that I will need?
11 Second Club
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From: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
The race headers come without those provisions, so yes if you deleted the AIR/EGR order the race style. You'll need to pick up some O2 extensions or make your own, if TSP doesn't include them.
alright jus bought everything! LS6 intake is on but i have an oil leak... think i didnt get the new oil sending unit in tight enough. What have most people done for the valve spring compressor tool? Thinking about getting the in car compressor tool from thunder racing but its kinda expensive... just was wondering what everyone else had done?
Ha, you're down in Carbondale huh? I just graduated from SIU last August. I'm up in Peoria now working for Caterpillar. There used to be a tuner up here who did mainly LS1's but he closed up shop and is actually working with me out at CAT now. He was the only one in the area that I know of...