Lost job and blew engine on same day need help?
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Lost job and blew engine on same day need help? So as stated I blew my engine, got major blowby and blew off oil cap and valve cover gasket. While driving me 01 WS6 with STS. Bottom end was stock so i figured one day got 18000 miles out of engine with turbo. I need help with which route to take I have a 3000 dollar budget and would like to know the besy route to take for rebuild and reliability as Im keeping the car. i am mechanic friendly and can remove the engine or do whatever. Just need someone experienced in price of cheap build, or replacement.
Any help would be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.
Assuming you busted ringlands.
Pull motor apart, have block checked and honed. Polish and check crank. New forged pistons and rods. If you do all of the work, I'm guessing $2000-$2500 and you basically have a new short block.
Pull motor apart, have block checked and honed. Polish and check crank. New forged pistons and rods. If you do all of the work, I'm guessing $2000-$2500 and you basically have a new short block.
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In process of removing motor from top side, which I hear is more difficult just dont have access to lift. then send it to a machine shop for the block work and I will do pistons and rods rings. Do you think i should stay stock to save cash. Now is not a great time to upgrade. Or should i buy the crank and go 383? then Im looking at retune cost too. So guess Ill answer my own question and stay stock. Well guess Ill know more once I send it to machine shop.
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I'm with the LQ9 build for you. The iron block will hold the boost better, you'll get an easy 408cid out of it with a 4" crank, and better overall power. The way the engine sits in the Fbody, you probably won't notice the extra 100lbs.. unless you're cutting all the weight you can for drag racing. But it sounds like this is a daily driver.
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Yep and the lower compression of the 317 heads will be boost friendly. If you are on a tight budget just throw a LQ4 LB in there and a get a tune....
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I still say that if you plan on putting any significant boost to it, the iron block may be your least expensive way to go for a shortblock assembly that won't shell out on you -and gain some cubes to boot. Even with a stock crank, you'd be looking at -what- 364 cubes. Good time to add that '02 LS6 cam and springs too. Seems like you could do all that for less than $3k.
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So an lq4/lq9 will work with my heads, I already have springs? Will stock cam work? guess Id just be looking at a tune. As of now Im going to remove mine and take it to machine shop to see how bad off we are. Since Im budgetting should I just keep my block and just go forged internals or buy crank and go 383
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so went to machine shop today, worst case scenario the builder said $1200 in labor to tear down, hone etc., and reassemble. Is that bad? Decided to go back forged 346 to keep it stock but still handle boost. Just looking at pistons, h beam rods, and rings, bearings. Is there any pistons I should go with under boost, maybe dished? Just saves cash at this point. But will increase relability.
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so went to machine shop today, worst case scenario the builder said $1200 in labor to tear down, hone etc., and reassemble. Is that bad? Decided to go back forged 346 to keep it stock but still handle boost. Just looking at pistons, h beam rods, and rings, bearings. Is there any pistons I should go with under boost, maybe dished? Just saves cash at this point. But will increase relability.
The reason I recommended the '02+ LS6 cam is that it is probably the cheapest replacement cam that will be the best for a boosted DD. Stock '02 Fbody cam is 196/207 @.050, .467/.479 lift, on a 116 centerline. The '02+ LS6 cam is 204/218 @ .050, .555/.551 lift, on a 117.5 centerline. A significant performance increase and very boost friendly. And, best of all, CHEAPLY available on ebay or someone here.
You will already have the engine apart. So the replacing the valve springs issue shouldn't be a problem. Only issue with the LS6 cam is it has a smaller base circle than what is currently in your engine and will require different pushrods to compensate. Of course the stock pushrods are another weak point in the LS engines and should be replaced anyhow on a performance build.
My personal opinion is that dollar for dollar, a used set of '02+ LS6 heads, cam, and intake will yield better $ per horsepower increase than a forged bottom end. Especially for a budget rebuild.
I say since you just lost your job, maybe you should just look into buying some used stock pistons and just buy some JE rings. I would be putting most of that money back for cushion until you find another job.
You can pull the motor using 2 jacks and a cherry picker
.
Take the block and have it checked at a machine shop and honed. Then add some new bearings and your good to go.
You can pull the motor using 2 jacks and a cherry picker
. Take the block and have it checked at a machine shop and honed. Then add some new bearings and your good to go.
so went to machine shop today, worst case scenario the builder said $1200 in labor to tear down, hone etc., and reassemble. Is that bad? Decided to go back forged 346 to keep it stock but still handle boost. Just looking at pistons, h beam rods, and rings, bearings. Is there any pistons I should go with under boost, maybe dished? Just saves cash at this point. But will increase relability.
This is another suggestion but it might not be the one you want to hear, sell the STS setup on hear for $1500 and then you have a $4500 limit to spend on your car so you can get another nice shortblock and cam. Then you wont have to worry about the turbo anymore and it will be a nice all motor setup and you could go with a turbo setup shortblock so you can go back to the turbo eventually.
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http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...sx_engine.aspx
