Cam/Header Install--1 hour into it.
Cam/Header Install Hi Everyone, I dont post to often, but I use the Search a lot.
So Far So Good, right now I am trying to get the balancer bolt out, it seems tight as heck, and I don't want to break it. So I sprayed a little PB Blaster on it while I have some lunch. So far I have only used like 5 different tools to get this far into it. Turning out to be pretty fun. Hopefully my lifter tools get here today.
Using all of the great info I have gleaned off of here is helping alot.
Later,
Aaron
So Far So Good, right now I am trying to get the balancer bolt out, it seems tight as heck, and I don't want to break it. So I sprayed a little PB Blaster on it while I have some lunch. So far I have only used like 5 different tools to get this far into it. Turning out to be pretty fun. Hopefully my lifter tools get here today.
Using all of the great info I have gleaned off of here is helping alot.Later,
Aaron
Last edited by Heavy Metal; Nov 1, 2003 at 03:52 PM.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
...my lead pipe extention was 5 feet long!!!! and I still had trouble getting that bolt off....
...make sure you buy a longer bolt when you re-install the pulley....buy it a auto zone...
...use the new longer bolt to "start" the pulley onto the crank....after you have it on about 2/3rds....pull it and install a brand new GM tork-to-yield crank bolt....
....oh yeh, dont tighten the timing cover bolts untill you have the crank pulley installed....this helps to center the cover so the seal does not leak...
...make sure you buy a longer bolt when you re-install the pulley....buy it a auto zone...
...use the new longer bolt to "start" the pulley onto the crank....after you have it on about 2/3rds....pull it and install a brand new GM tork-to-yield crank bolt....
....oh yeh, dont tighten the timing cover bolts untill you have the crank pulley installed....this helps to center the cover so the seal does not leak...
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Novi, MI
yeah, I used the handle extension from my 3 1/2 floor jack and it takes a couple tugs, but once it's broken free you can back it out by hand. I was surprised to see how few tools you really need to do a cam swap. Good luck!
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,975
Likes: 2
From: SW Florida
Very Important:
If you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2” drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket on your crank pulley bolt. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.
Ron,
If you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2” drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket on your crank pulley bolt. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.
Ron,
Trending Topics
eat your wheaties!!!!!! just kidding
i used a 3ft breaker bar, and some muscle, keep at it, eventually it will budge....also, make sure you have the right socket, like mentioned above
jimmy
i used a 3ft breaker bar, and some muscle, keep at it, eventually it will budge....also, make sure you have the right socket, like mentioned above
jimmy
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,586
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, OH
Originally Posted by mcflyz28
I used 1/4" tubing for a lifter tool worked like a charm.
I went ahead and ground down the old bolt, and pulled the pulley out around it...worked great. Ya I had to use like a 4' piece of pipe to break it loose. I was promised I would have the cam tool today, if not then I'll proabobly use a steel rod, well now I'm off to change the valvesprings. 
Thanks,
Aaron
Thanks,
Aaron
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: McKinney
What kind of tubing are you all talking about? Just wondering as I am starting my cam, valve spring and header install next week. I do not have enough pen magnets but may just use the air compressor when doing valve springs.
Derek
Derek
Originally Posted by pimpmaro
Ummmm how did you get the rest of the bolt out????
Originally Posted by apexman
What kind of tubing are you all talking about? Just wondering as I am starting my cam, valve spring and header install next week. I do not have enough pen magnets but may just use the air compressor when doing valve springs.
Derek
Derek
They are talking about using a 1/8" piece of steel rod with a strip of velcro running along it lengthwise, stick 2 of these rods in the front of the block, and you basically have a homemade lifter tool(does the same thing as the 80$ JPR tool, wich I was silly enough to get.
Hope this helps,
Aaron
A chain wrench works great to keep the crank from turning while removing the bolt. I duct taped a piece of pipe to the breaker bar. It was 4' long overall and the crank bolt came out with ease.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,586
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, OH
Ok.. I see what you're sayin Heavy Metal, Makes good sense... And apexman. As far as springs, I'd use the TDC method of swapping them and the 1/8" steel rod method for the lifters. Both are much more reliable than pen magnets and an air compressor.