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Crank Pully Install

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Old 05-21-2009, 11:52 AM
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Default Crank Pully Install

I'm re-installing my crank pully after a cam swap and I've read some write ups saying not to use a crank bolt to put it back on. Now I have my old crank bolt and my new ARP I planned on using the old crank bolt to tighten it down but I heard that can ruin your threads.

What's the best way?
Old 05-21-2009, 11:59 AM
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Don't use a bolt. You can either make or buy a tool. Here is the one I made for less than $20.

Old 05-21-2009, 01:25 PM
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agreed . do not use your bolt.
Old 05-21-2009, 01:36 PM
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Search pulley installer I got mine for like 40 bucks, it worked like a charm and I didn't have to worry about stripping it And once you are done with it you can just turn around and sell it!
Old 05-21-2009, 01:46 PM
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If you don't have an installation tool, you'd be better off using the ARP bolt to install the new pulley as it's longer and will have more threads into the crank than the stock bolt. The reason people strip the threads in the crank is because the stock bolt doesn't thread in very far.
Old 05-21-2009, 02:01 PM
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I just bought a longer bolt to install the pulley. It allows me to get more threads into the crank before it starts pulling the pulley on. Done it twice this way with no issues.
Old 05-22-2009, 12:04 AM
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Thanks for the help!
Old 05-22-2009, 01:45 AM
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Why is the damper pulley so damn hard to take off and put back on?

I don't remember my gen 1 engine being that bad.
Old 05-22-2009, 02:37 AM
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Put your pulley in the oven and won't have to go so crazy on the bolt!
Old 05-22-2009, 06:12 AM
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Its not hard to install at all it just needs to be done correctly. I would NOT use a bolt that needs to be TURNED INTO the crank to get the balancer on. I bought a set like Vettenuts posted in the pic. 16mm by 2.0 thread pitch.
Old 05-22-2009, 11:13 AM
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^^^ +1 you can still ruin your threads.
Old 05-22-2009, 01:05 PM
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another way to look at it is head studs vs bolts same basic concepts but with much higher loads.




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