My AFR 205/Pat G cam build
#44
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According to the dyno's wideband stuck up the tailpipe it is definitely a bit lean but this was tuned 2 weeks ago in similar weather using open loop speed density with a wideband through an O2 bung on my X-pipe that was reading 13.0:1 at 6K rpms and about 12.5:1 at peak torque. I'm attributing it to the location of the dyno's wideband not being as accurate as up on the X plus it's a different sensor so there could some differences there as well...not too worried about it but there is something going on b/w 3200 and 3800 where it might have been knocking a little bit that I do need to get figured out. There's a 20RWTQ difference in that range on a couple of the runs.
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wow that peaks much higher than I was expecting...whats the duration and ICL again? mine was a PatG 235 243 on a 108icl and peaked at 6400-6500...what were the SAE numbers...STD numbers are typically about 10 higher than SAE
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Thanks guys, I plan on hitting the dyno on 7/18 so it'll be a couple weeks. My butt dyno says it's a big improvement. I can't wait to see what this thing traps with how light it is. I'm definitely picking up new rear tires before I hit the track though. Just haven't decided on Mickey's or 555R's to keep on full time. My clutch is going to hate me regardless.
I only go 1 pass in on mine when i had the stock clutch and gears...did 11.57 at 123 with a 1.87 3000 rpm launch on MT's
only got 2 passes in on the last time out...2nd pass i went 1.68 11.10 at 127.4 with 390s and ET Streets...then i broke my trans output shaft
not bad for very little street time
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hmm....still peaked crazy high for what you degreed it in as...mine degreed at 108.5 and had more duration and peaked earlier
let us know what it runs and if you get sae numbers let us know what they are
let us know what it runs and if you get sae numbers let us know what they are
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99LS1fever - I used a razor blade followed by some 800 grit sandpaper to get any buildup that was hard to get off.
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alot of rattling at idle is the transmission as it runs all the time....turn the timing up to 27 to 28 degrees...should pick up at least 10rwhp and tq
heres my last dyno...the gears/built diff and beefy trans put a hurting on dyno numbers (390s and level 5 trans from RPM with the 30 spline mainshaft)...keep in mind...if you wanted to compare my STDs were over 470 on this...prior to this cam...the old cam and headers with stock gears...SAEs were 468 and uncorrected in Nov were 485rwhp
heres my last dyno...the gears/built diff and beefy trans put a hurting on dyno numbers (390s and level 5 trans from RPM with the 30 spline mainshaft)...keep in mind...if you wanted to compare my STDs were over 470 on this...prior to this cam...the old cam and headers with stock gears...SAEs were 468 and uncorrected in Nov were 485rwhp
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#53
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I am sure the car runs great man but the results don't seem the greatest they could be for what you have. I mean I have non ported 243's (milled to 62cc's and a 5 angle valve job I did) with a 224 cam LS6 intake no udp with the LS7 clutch. I made almost 350ftlbs at the rear wheels around 3000 rpm yours looks to be a little lazy down low. I am not bashing what you have but I think there is more left in it. Your cam is much bigger and your heads are much better + you have a light clutch and underdrive but I would have expected more with the "high torque" producing cnc ported AFR 205 heads. Plus those are STD numbers and not SAE. I know there is more left in it man, I also tuned my car on the street with hptuners and I only got 3 runs on the dyno just to compare to my baseline. I would like to look at your timing curve as I think that is maybe why its lazy down low. If you could send me your tune file that would be great and I will look at it for ya.
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Congrats on the results man. If you ever decide to bring the car to kc for some fun time give me a shout. I'd love to see that thing in action. Sounds like it turned out to be pretty nasty!
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Will do...I thought it peaked really high as well for that cam. As for timing it was 24 deg up top. I've got some knocking down low (b/w 3200 and 3800) that I need to figure out. When the rpms dip below say 700 like when I let the clutch out w/o giving it enough gas you can hear something rattle/knock so I don't know what's doing it. I can't see the exhaust banging but it still could be...need to jack it up and have my wife mess with the throttle while I'm under there.
99LS1fever - I used a razor blade followed by some 800 grit sandpaper to get any buildup that was hard to get off.
99LS1fever - I used a razor blade followed by some 800 grit sandpaper to get any buildup that was hard to get off.
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I got back to my tuner yesterday after putting on my self-ported 90/ported LS2 TB. It was pretty lean as expected before he tuned it due to the better intake setup. Also installed a catch can as I found quite a bit of oil in the intake after only 300 miles of driving prior to tuning it too. Anyways, it wasn't knocking at all so we bumped the timing up to 26 deg from 3200 up to fuel cutout at 6800. Before it was 24 deg in that range due to some knock we were picking up. We may add a little more later if I can get out to the dyno with my tuner. I really think the knock we were seeing before was from sucking in so much oil. I drove it about 80 miles yesterday and could already see the oil accumulation in the catch can. Also got my 305 nittos out back so will be headed to the track 9/17 to see what I can do. Really need to change my clutch fluid first...it's pretty dirty and I at least want one or two trips down the track without the pedal acting up.