which rods and pistons n20 346ci
which rods and pistons n20 346ci I have a cleaned and honed stock ls1 block and stock crank. I would like to do a decent set of rods and some high(er) compression n20 pistons with valve reliefs. Can someone point me in the right direction on which pistons i need to look for (style and bore) and which rods i need to look for (style and length). Also any good links to read before i go around buying the rest of the parts for this build. Thanks!
What heads are you planning on running? I would look into a Eagle or Callies 6.125" H-beam. If you go Eagle, I would recommend upgrading to the ARP 2000 bolts. The Callies will come with them. On pistons, both Diamond and Wiseco have flat-top pistons that would work for you. We can get you a little better pricing on the Wiseco's and they come with Total Seal Stainless/Napier rings! Shoot me a PM with what you are wanting to do and we'll get you fixed up with the parts you need!
Jon
Jon
Please keep in mind when replying that this is my first build, but i have been around cars for years and feel very confident that with the right direction i can pull off a successful build.
Here is some background info in order to keep you guys on the same page. I currently have an 02 ls1 and t56 in a 93 mazda rx7.
Essentially the setup is this
LT's
232/237 112lsa 600lift
stock 243's
HSW plate kit
speed density tuning
The setup makes 400whp on motor and 580whp on the bottle and is tuned by Jermey Formato who is a forum spronser and a GREAT tuner. I am pleased with this setup it has gone deep into the 10's at 135+ mph traps... I plan on running it into the 9's while i build this motor on the side.
i am unsure of what heads i will be running... i would really like to do something high compression but still able to run 93 octane, and be able to handle 750+whp on the bottle (2stage)... With valve reliefs on the pistons should i bother milling the heads, or should i just cram a huge cam with more reverse split in?
I recently purchased an OEM LS1 crank that i will be taking to the machine shop to get micro polished and possibly treated.
My next question is how to check if the block is okay in order to install the crank. I purchased this block from a friend who i am no longer in contact with... It looks fine to the eye but i will be ordering a micrometer in order to spec it. Does anyone have any good links or reads on how to install main caps and ARP main studs.
Also, is it worth it to go billet main caps or will the stock main caps with clevite bearings do the trick?
Thanks in advance,
Andrew
heres a pic of the ride (hoping to have the body work sorted out by xmas time with a fresh coat of vintage red
)
Here is some background info in order to keep you guys on the same page. I currently have an 02 ls1 and t56 in a 93 mazda rx7.
Essentially the setup is this
LT's
232/237 112lsa 600lift
stock 243's
HSW plate kit
speed density tuning
The setup makes 400whp on motor and 580whp on the bottle and is tuned by Jermey Formato who is a forum spronser and a GREAT tuner. I am pleased with this setup it has gone deep into the 10's at 135+ mph traps... I plan on running it into the 9's while i build this motor on the side.
i am unsure of what heads i will be running... i would really like to do something high compression but still able to run 93 octane, and be able to handle 750+whp on the bottle (2stage)... With valve reliefs on the pistons should i bother milling the heads, or should i just cram a huge cam with more reverse split in?
I recently purchased an OEM LS1 crank that i will be taking to the machine shop to get micro polished and possibly treated.
My next question is how to check if the block is okay in order to install the crank. I purchased this block from a friend who i am no longer in contact with... It looks fine to the eye but i will be ordering a micrometer in order to spec it. Does anyone have any good links or reads on how to install main caps and ARP main studs.
Also, is it worth it to go billet main caps or will the stock main caps with clevite bearings do the trick?
Thanks in advance,
Andrew
heres a pic of the ride (hoping to have the body work sorted out by xmas time with a fresh coat of vintage red
) Last edited by nofxrxmxpx; Aug 4, 2009 at 09:32 PM.
I think the stock mains should be good but if the funds were available for billet mains go for it, a little more security.
Also the steel top ring like the guys from texas speed said seem to be important with alot of n2o.
Oh Yeah.........Go for some head studs and good gaskets
Also the steel top ring like the guys from texas speed said seem to be important with alot of n2o.
Oh Yeah.........Go for some head studs and good gaskets
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
im have a stock displacement n20 motor i built awhile ago thats held up strong. I went with JE pistons and manley h-beam rods w/arp2000's and a stock crank. motor has seen 7400 rpms several times and is running a 200 shot.