More Stealth II cam/MTI LS6 heads times...
#1
More Stealth IIcam /MTI LS6 heads times...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/119512-stealth-ii-goes-11-20-121-47-mph.html
This cam is a 224/220 .581/.581 116
In this car, at least, the idle sounds like stock. Man I love this reverse split cam!
This cam is a 224/220 .581/.581 116
In this car, at least, the idle sounds like stock. Man I love this reverse split cam!
#2
Sweet numbers
I just finished installing my stealth II cam today . It was Cannibals bro's cam
Out of curiosity , how lacking would this cam be on stock manifolds If I had to run it for a while . Would the reverse split really hurt exhaust flow / numbers without longtubes ? Im planing on a set of kooks but I might delay that till next mod season .
Mods are as follows
Asp pulleys
Jantzer tb
Stealth II cam
Meizer electric street pump
Loudmouth
125 shot dry
It dynoed 330 / 340 before the cam and water pump . . . would 360 / 360 be attainable without longtubes .
I just finished installing my stealth II cam today . It was Cannibals bro's cam
Out of curiosity , how lacking would this cam be on stock manifolds If I had to run it for a while . Would the reverse split really hurt exhaust flow / numbers without longtubes ? Im planing on a set of kooks but I might delay that till next mod season .
Mods are as follows
Asp pulleys
Jantzer tb
Stealth II cam
Meizer electric street pump
Loudmouth
125 shot dry
It dynoed 330 / 340 before the cam and water pump . . . would 360 / 360 be attainable without longtubes .
#4
"how lacking would this cam be on stock manifolds If I had to run it for a while ."
While it certainly wouldn't be the best choice for stock manifolds, I wouldn't worry about it if you have plans for LTs. It's not like it's going to cost you 20 RWHP. Who knows...maybe 5-10 RWHP compared to a standard split of the same total duration (say a 220/224?) Maybe 1-4 RWHP? I just don't know.
While it certainly wouldn't be the best choice for stock manifolds, I wouldn't worry about it if you have plans for LTs. It's not like it's going to cost you 20 RWHP. Who knows...maybe 5-10 RWHP compared to a standard split of the same total duration (say a 220/224?) Maybe 1-4 RWHP? I just don't know.
#6
Originally Posted by Colonel
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119512
This cam is a 224/220 .581/.581 116
In this car, at least, the idle sounds like stock. Man I love this reverse split cam!
This cam is a 224/220 .581/.581 116
In this car, at least, the idle sounds like stock. Man I love this reverse split cam!
thanks,
Crowley
#7
No nitrous here.
The graphs have been posted in this section before but I'll save you the trouble and post them again here...
https://ls1tech.com/dynojet/SS2vsStock.gif
https://ls1tech.com/dynojet/SS2openvsSS2cappedbase.gif
The graphs have been posted in this section before but I'll save you the trouble and post them again here...
https://ls1tech.com/dynojet/SS2vsStock.gif
https://ls1tech.com/dynojet/SS2openvsSS2cappedbase.gif
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#8
colonel, that cam might look small at .050" lift and sound small through teh mufflers (it did when i heard it at TR), but it is far from a small cam. it isnt in the 220 B1 type cam class. it is a very aggressive cam, esp on the lift and overall profile. i am sure many know this but i just wanted to clear that up. with lobes like that it wouldnt be the best choice for someone that drives a lot everyday now would it? talking about spring life. the lobes must look like a mini solid roller profile.
#9
"that cam might look small at .050" lift and sound small through teh mufflers (it did when i heard it at TR), but it is far from a small cam."
The important thing to me is that it sounds stock...more stock than a B1 does, that's for sure, while making better power.
"with lobes like that it wouldnt be the best choice for someone that drives a lot everyday now would it?"
Gator, I AM someone who drives alot everyday (110 miles almost every single day just to see my girlfriend, not mention all the traveling I do.) I've had this car maybe 16 months and it has 28,000 miles on it. It IS my daily driver. I have a truck that I've driven maybe 1-2 thousand miles this year. Best choice? That depends on if the person in question expects 20K, 40K, or 150K miles on the valvesprings. It could be that the stock cam is the best choice for some people.
I agree, this is an aggressive cam just as all cams with XE-R lobes are and that was the point when I cam up with this idea. To make a smooth idleing cam make great power by taking advantage of the valve springs that are available today. See, when the B1 cam was devised, we didn't have the valve springs available that we have now. This cam would not have been feasible. That's why we have the NOW COMMON XE-R lobes that this cam has. There are springs that can handle them. People seem to be doing very well with them in their daily drivers...even those running lesser springs that what MTI installs in their heads.
Even though my car sees alot of track passes, I feel confident that 25-30K miles should be fine with these springs. Stay tuned, we'll find out!
What kind of mileage do you expect I'll get out of these springs...considering that my car makes alot of track passes, I drive VERY aggressively, and I shift at ~6700 RPM at WOT?
The important thing to me is that it sounds stock...more stock than a B1 does, that's for sure, while making better power.
"with lobes like that it wouldnt be the best choice for someone that drives a lot everyday now would it?"
Gator, I AM someone who drives alot everyday (110 miles almost every single day just to see my girlfriend, not mention all the traveling I do.) I've had this car maybe 16 months and it has 28,000 miles on it. It IS my daily driver. I have a truck that I've driven maybe 1-2 thousand miles this year. Best choice? That depends on if the person in question expects 20K, 40K, or 150K miles on the valvesprings. It could be that the stock cam is the best choice for some people.
I agree, this is an aggressive cam just as all cams with XE-R lobes are and that was the point when I cam up with this idea. To make a smooth idleing cam make great power by taking advantage of the valve springs that are available today. See, when the B1 cam was devised, we didn't have the valve springs available that we have now. This cam would not have been feasible. That's why we have the NOW COMMON XE-R lobes that this cam has. There are springs that can handle them. People seem to be doing very well with them in their daily drivers...even those running lesser springs that what MTI installs in their heads.
Even though my car sees alot of track passes, I feel confident that 25-30K miles should be fine with these springs. Stay tuned, we'll find out!
What kind of mileage do you expect I'll get out of these springs...considering that my car makes alot of track passes, I drive VERY aggressively, and I shift at ~6700 RPM at WOT?
#10
colonel i totally understand what you mean, i just dont want people confusing the idea that this stock sounding cam will have the longevity of stock cams. i would expect personally to change springs out every couple of years if you drive say 15-20 K miles a year. that is just a personal thing. i am not taking away from it, but you post made it sound like it is a smooth AND small cam, when it is just a smooth cam. .600 lift is something to consider. overall it is an amazing setup.
#11
I guess small is opinionated...as is what's an acceptable valvespring life. Some people might think that a B1 cam will give stock valvespring life and it won't. So, as far as that person is concerned, a B1 is a large cam. To me, it's a very small cam. So, some people might consider anything other than a stock cam to be a large cam since absolute stock longevity will not be retained. It is up to each to decide what is acceptable to them. Changing valvesprings every year seems like normal maintainence to me but it may seem excessive to some people. Those people should run platinum plugs. I prefer copper plugs.
For the record, when I say a "small cam", I mean it idles VERY smoothly with very little to no drivability issues. For instance, an X1 cam on a 114 LSA is a big cam in a 346ci engine, IMO. It will have a rather aggressive idle. But, take the same cam and install it in a 454ci engine and it'll idle like stock. Did the cam shrink? No, but it is a very small cam for that size engine, IMO.
The lift on this cam is .581, not .600. I don't see the lift as being a problem so long as the springs can handle it.
I've been VERY clear about the aggressive lobes that this cam has in several threads in the recent past. I don't feel the need to point that out or the fact that good valvesprings are needed with this cam in every single post I make about the progress of this project. It has already been said. So you folks interested in this cam, use the search feature to learn the details.
Gator, IYO, what is an acceptable valvespring life to be considered a "small" cam by your standards? 20K miles is fine with me. I think I'll start a poll on this.
For the record, when I say a "small cam", I mean it idles VERY smoothly with very little to no drivability issues. For instance, an X1 cam on a 114 LSA is a big cam in a 346ci engine, IMO. It will have a rather aggressive idle. But, take the same cam and install it in a 454ci engine and it'll idle like stock. Did the cam shrink? No, but it is a very small cam for that size engine, IMO.
The lift on this cam is .581, not .600. I don't see the lift as being a problem so long as the springs can handle it.
I've been VERY clear about the aggressive lobes that this cam has in several threads in the recent past. I don't feel the need to point that out or the fact that good valvesprings are needed with this cam in every single post I make about the progress of this project. It has already been said. So you folks interested in this cam, use the search feature to learn the details.
Gator, IYO, what is an acceptable valvespring life to be considered a "small" cam by your standards? 20K miles is fine with me. I think I'll start a poll on this.
#13
IMHO, 20-30K miles is the max i would ever personally go with springs since they are a realitively cheap item to replace, even if you pay someone else. i wont do it because it drove me insane doing it (or attempting). also i didnt know the lift was .581 neighborhood. should have known if it was an xe-r lobe, duh. i have about 15K miles on my springs as well and no valve float ever. they are the comp 918 with my .573" lift (only the xe grind) and am very happy with them. i turn this cam to 6800 rpms. it is a big cam at 230/230 on a 111 lsa imho. i think a poll is a very good idea since i think many out there dont know you cant just go forever and not think about spring life on these comp or other aggresive grinds.
#14
Gator, in my opening post of this thread I gave the cam specs including the lift.
Yeah, a poll would also serve to make everyone aware of valvespring life as being an issue.
People should also be aware that valvespring life has as much to do with a variety of other factors as it does camshaft profile. Things such as...
RPMs
How hard the engine is driven.
Overall gearing.
Rocker arm ratio.
The valvesprings themselves.
Which valvespring will last more miles?
a. XE lobe, driven hard and spinning 6800 RPM on a daily basis with many passes at the track every weekend, running 4.10 gears
or
b. XE-R lobe, driven moderately and rarely seeing above 6000 RPM with track trips only a couple of times a year, running 3.23 gears.
I think the answer to that is clear. b. will last far longer.
Yeah, a poll would also serve to make everyone aware of valvespring life as being an issue.
People should also be aware that valvespring life has as much to do with a variety of other factors as it does camshaft profile. Things such as...
RPMs
How hard the engine is driven.
Overall gearing.
Rocker arm ratio.
The valvesprings themselves.
Which valvespring will last more miles?
a. XE lobe, driven hard and spinning 6800 RPM on a daily basis with many passes at the track every weekend, running 4.10 gears
or
b. XE-R lobe, driven moderately and rarely seeing above 6000 RPM with track trips only a couple of times a year, running 3.23 gears.
I think the answer to that is clear. b. will last far longer.
#15
talk about extreme comparisons!?! shesh colonel. lets not compare a cam like yours and a cam like mine. comparing yours (lets say "a") with mine (lets call it "b") is not fair. b would and could fail at any given time under those conditions. a could go till the rod bolts come loose. neither is realistic. my springs could last till the block split given your "a" scenerio even with 4.10 gearing.
#16
Gator, I wasn't camparing yours and mine. That never crossed my mind. I was speaking of all else being equal except for the ramp rates. Same duration, same springs, same everything except for one having a more aggressive lobe.
My purpose was to make a clear point that ramp rates are only one of many factors contributing to valvespring longevity.
Sure, any valvespring can fail at any time (even a stock valvespring with a stock cam) but the likelyhood of failure increases or decreases (oftentimes dramatically) when these and other factors change. That's why I used such an extreme comparison...to make an exagerated and clearly understood point.
My purpose was to make a clear point that ramp rates are only one of many factors contributing to valvespring longevity.
Sure, any valvespring can fail at any time (even a stock valvespring with a stock cam) but the likelyhood of failure increases or decreases (oftentimes dramatically) when these and other factors change. That's why I used such an extreme comparison...to make an exagerated and clearly understood point.
#18
Originally Posted by Colonel
No nitrous here.
The graphs have been posted in this section before but I'll save you the trouble and post them again here...
https://ls1tech.com/dynojet/SS2vsStock.gif
https://ls1tech.com/dynojet/SS2openvsSS2cappedbase.gif
The graphs have been posted in this section before but I'll save you the trouble and post them again here...
https://ls1tech.com/dynojet/SS2vsStock.gif
https://ls1tech.com/dynojet/SS2openvsSS2cappedbase.gif
The 388hp 372tq graph says "stock exhaust" - is that stock manifolds, stock cats, and stock cat back? Or is it long tubes through the stock cat back? Or something else entirely?
#19
That's through headers, no cats, and the stock muffler. It just means that the cuttout is closed on that pull. The best pull with the cuttout closed was 395 RWHP. The best with it open was 422.7.