zacht

iTrader: (18)

also, need to check lifter preload. some aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle and require the use of longer pushrods.

PTV- put some sort of hard clay on the piston close to where the valves will be, bolt the head on, put in pushrods, rockers, make it pretty much how it will run, you can do just one piston, one intake/exhaust, then spin the crank a few times, pull the head and measure with a caliper the thinnest part of the clay. not sure the minimum requirement, but i think its .100...

degreeing the cam will tell you if the manufacture slightly messed up grinding your cam, youll have to research this, you will need some tools as well, like a dial indicator, degree wheel. basically helps with advancing/retarding your cam. you have an adj. timing set, since your cam is spec'd to be ground 3 degrees advanced, maybe they only advanced it 1-2, heres where your adj. timing set help you get it in spec with what your tuner or cam guy wants for your motor.

you should check out ls1howto.com also

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

general accepted clearance is .080 intake & .100 exhaust for ptvc...if the cam was doctored you are okay but there are only a few sponsors that doctor the cam and you will receive a seperate sheet that gives the exact lifts, durations,lsa etc...if it isn't doctored and you just have a cam card that does not mean it was cut right...I know I have ordered parts before and they have been wrong or for a different car...my dad didn't even get a cam card with his cam ha...degree a cam is not bad there are instructions on here and probably comps website...you will need a degree kit...I got mine from comp...I mean I would at a min check the ptvc which can be done with a dial gauge and light checker springs with the piston at tdc...usually is closest somewhere between 10 degrees before/after...

I guess my question would be if I were you ok I trust the cam is made right and I got the right one...now I want to make sure...I mean you spun it and it didn't hit so you can have .005 ptv or .100 how would you know...at least by checking ptv you will know you have clearance...with degreeing you will know the cam is made correctly...most likely the cam is okay but why risk it...

fyi my 230/230 cam with stock 241 heads and stock mls gaskets was .072 on the intake and exhaust was around .120, so i retarded it 2* and got the PTV to be around .086 on the intake...now some are pushing the limits with the donkey dick cams around .050 and i have seen some whisker marks on some pistons after the heads were pulled...that is a little to close for comfort...

good luck on the build just some food for thought...

209ryder

iTrader: (2)

Yeah its crazy i didnt want to pull teh ehads but **** now you got me thinking i should im going to call my tuner and ask him about it cause he specd it and comp grinded it soo i want to make sure ....hey thanks guys

Slvr00Bird

iTrader: (2)

zacht

iTrader: (18)

also on the note of 'grinding cams' and such. which sponsors here doctor your cam and give a full cam card?

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

you dont have to clay the pistons, you can use a dial indicator and a light checker spring where your dual spring is now…what you do is get the piston to around 10* BTDC and then push the valve till it touches the piston, then take the reading of PTVC on the dial indicator, then do it at 9*, then 8* and so on down till you get to 10* ATDC…the lowest number is your PTVC for that valve (intake or exhaust)…

claying the piston is just another method of checking PTVC…

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

i am pretty sure thunder racing doctors the cams, IIRC any cam that Patrick G specs gets doctored if it is purchased through him...

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

was just at harbor freight getting my engine stand and they have a cheap dial indicator for like $10, it comes with the stand and magnet too...its nothing nice but it will get the job done for a one timer...

SS#1230

if you put the dots together your good to go. if you are off by a tooth, it is very obvious.

dont sweat it.

but but youve got a pretty decent sized cam so id definately check the PTV clearance.

and how did you choose PR length. did you use something like the comp cams PR length checking tool?

209ryder

iTrader: (2)

My tuner specd me out everything ??? And handed to me and said here you go basically !!! i mean he is very reputable so i wouldnt think he would set me up with something that needed all that cause he know my exact setup to the ""T""

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

you still dont understand...i am sure everything is speced perfectly...but what happens if the cam was cut wrong, was thrown in the wrong box, etc...it has happened...unless you can read what the lobes are just by looking at it...

never hurts to double check...

209ryder

iTrader: (2)

Ok well im gonna have tyo get the dial indicator and do it the wya you were talking about cause i dont want to spend the time and money to take off the heads right now....Thanks for all the help guys you are all very cool and helpful

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

well nick the install was fun and next week we're doing my cam and heads install!! mine is a TR cam from TR so i'm not worried about the PTV lol plus with 169K thats not my biggest worry at the moment

Titanws6

iTrader: (35)

Hey, I was looking thru your pics and noticed your radiator fluid was green and the bucket looked greenish organish color. Not sure how far you are into buttoning her back up, but check out this thread and link, you may wanna flush the system when all done and then switch back to Dexcool when you refill the radiator as it is spec'd by GM. Not sure if the green stuff is all bad for the system, I am running the Dexcool mix.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...tuff-dont.html

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

yep we're planning on doin that next week good lookin out bud!

Titanws6

iTrader: (35)

Hey, I try to contribute when I can

209ryder

iTrader: (2)

Yeah when i got the car he had it flushed and put the green in and i was gone for a while sooo the car has sat and i havent got around to changing it so its gonna be flushed with dexcool back in it autozone has a special buy one get the other free!!!! love it !!!!! Thanks for teh help bro its mostly dirt in teh bucket it was green as hell lol

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

Straight Line did my cam dot to dot Chris and it has been fine for 3 yrs

Bjorne043

iTrader: (1)

I'm getting ready to start my cam swap this winter too and I've been doing a lot of reading on "ls1howto.com" as well and there is some pretty in depth reading as well as pictures to help you along the way!

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

trust me you dont wanna go down that road...i bet you would just throw pushrods in too without making sure they are what you ordered...no sense in making sure the part is correct before throwing it in the engine right? mistakes never happen when getting parts?

well degreeing/doctoring a cam is that preventative process...

everyone can build the way they want, i was just giving advise to maybe catch a small problem before it causes a big one...even though 99% of the time you will probably be okay...