RPM Increase ?
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Teching In
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RPM Increase ? Engine is out for other reasons, thinking about increasing revs while I am at it. What is necessary for safe 7000rpm operation?
Here is what I am currently working with related to RPM.
1) What do you think the current safe RPM is?
2) What else do I need to get 7000 RPM safely?
Current:
3.620 stroke (stock rods, soon will have forged pistons)
Stock rod bolts
Comp 222/224 112 LSA Cam (.600/.601" Lift @ .050)
Stock lifters
Comp 7.425" x .080" pushrods
Harland-Sharp 1.8 ratio aluminum roller rockers (non-adjustable)
Ti Spring Retainers
PSI Beehive Springs (120# seat pressure, ~350# at max lift)
Solid Steel valves (2.02" intake)
Running factory LS1 RPM limit
Considering the following:
Lifters: GM Performance "Caddie Race" lifters, Comp Hi Energy Lifters, other?
Rod Bolts: ARP
Rods: Prefer to keep stock
Prefer to keep hydraulic lifters and non-adjustable rockers.
Anything else?
Am I off my rocker hoping for 7k without solid lifters and without adjustable rocker arms?
If you run 7k, please list your setup if you dont mind.
Thanks in advance.
p.s. I realize there are other "detail" oriented factors such as cam accel rates and lift velocities which are based on the grind profile, plus consistency of installed spring height, etc. But lets not go there unless we have to. :-)
Here is what I am currently working with related to RPM.
1) What do you think the current safe RPM is?
2) What else do I need to get 7000 RPM safely?
Current:
3.620 stroke (stock rods, soon will have forged pistons)
Stock rod bolts
Comp 222/224 112 LSA Cam (.600/.601" Lift @ .050)
Stock lifters
Comp 7.425" x .080" pushrods
Harland-Sharp 1.8 ratio aluminum roller rockers (non-adjustable)
Ti Spring Retainers
PSI Beehive Springs (120# seat pressure, ~350# at max lift)
Solid Steel valves (2.02" intake)
Running factory LS1 RPM limit
Considering the following:
Lifters: GM Performance "Caddie Race" lifters, Comp Hi Energy Lifters, other?
Rod Bolts: ARP
Rods: Prefer to keep stock
Prefer to keep hydraulic lifters and non-adjustable rockers.
Anything else?
Am I off my rocker hoping for 7k without solid lifters and without adjustable rocker arms?
If you run 7k, please list your setup if you dont mind.
Thanks in advance.
p.s. I realize there are other "detail" oriented factors such as cam accel rates and lift velocities which are based on the grind profile, plus consistency of installed spring height, etc. But lets not go there unless we have to. :-)
Why do you want to run 7K? Your whole engine combo is done by 6200! If you wanna run that high, plan on changing your whole setup to even get that close. Heads, cam, intake, etc....
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 23
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Well it isnt my car, but I have ridden in it before when it was running. And it was still definitely pulling very strong at 6200.
As mentioned, the engine is torn down for other reasons, and the owner is not looking to spend a ton of money. So I figured it would be worth it to spend a comparative small amount on a set of lifters for example, to get some extra pull out of each gear (its an A4) and make a little better use out of the parts he already has.
Anyone else care to comment?
As mentioned, the engine is torn down for other reasons, and the owner is not looking to spend a ton of money. So I figured it would be worth it to spend a comparative small amount on a set of lifters for example, to get some extra pull out of each gear (its an A4) and make a little better use out of the parts he already has.
Anyone else care to comment?
why would he have to change his heads to run those rpms? after changing valve springs and using ti retainers people have hit 7k rpms with no problem. after arp rod bolts your bottom end should be pretty solid for 7k rpms, make sure you have a healthy oil pump, the only thing i would be worried about is those 1.8 rockers. why would he have to change his heads to run those rpms? after changing valve springs and using ti retainers people have hit 7k rpms with no problem. after arp rod bolts your bottom end should be pretty solid for 7k rpms, make sure you have a healthy oil pump, the only thing i would be worried about is those 1.8 rockers.Last edited by JPH; Jan 12, 2010 at 10:54 AM.
I turn about 66-6800 rpm when I shift, but have taken it past 7k. Its holding together...but on the stock bottom end, I am worried I am pushing it to far. With the rod bolts it should be fine, but as other said, maybe a larger cam and better flowing heads if you want to spin it that high.
Boy if I wanted to make more power and turn it those kind of rpms, I would diffently try to make the motor alot more efficent for one, give it some more runner volume/area to do it with, matched with a camshaft profile to help achieve it, and along with a better intake manifold to imo scrafice turning it that high. But you can do it your way, and gain nothing, but just wear parts out quicker imo. And why worry about those 1.8 rockers? If he isn't going to change the cam, that's about one of the best things he can do, he just better make sure the valve springs are correct.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 23
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why would he have to change his heads to run those rpms? after changing valve springs and using ti retainers people have hit 7k rpms with no problem. after arp rod bolts your bottom end should be pretty solid for 7k rpms, make sure you have a healthy oil pump, the only thing i would be worried about is those 1.8 rockers.I wasnt really looking to start an argument over heads/cams/and intakes. ;-)
With regard to the "right" valve springs being used...can you please clarify your comment? I included the information on them for people to make educated specific comments (not generic ones). Maker, style, seat pressure, and pressure at max lift is all in my original post.
I think the cam should be good for at least 6800 based on the way it is still pulling at 62/6300. The car has an adjustable cam sprocket, and it is not installed with any advance.
So that is 2 "yes" votes....
ae13291, thanks for the feedback specific to my question.
I wasnt really looking to start an argument over heads/cams/and intakes. ;-)
With regard to the "right" valve springs being used...can you please clarify your comment? I included the information on them for people to make educated specific comments (not generic ones). Maker, style, seat pressure, and pressure at max lift is all in my original post.
I think the cam should be good for at least 6800 based on the way it is still pulling at 62/6300. The car has an adjustable cam sprocket, and it is not installed with any advance.
So that is 2 "yes" votes....
I wasnt really looking to start an argument over heads/cams/and intakes. ;-)
With regard to the "right" valve springs being used...can you please clarify your comment? I included the information on them for people to make educated specific comments (not generic ones). Maker, style, seat pressure, and pressure at max lift is all in my original post.
I think the cam should be good for at least 6800 based on the way it is still pulling at 62/6300. The car has an adjustable cam sprocket, and it is not installed with any advance.
So that is 2 "yes" votes....
sure man, for valvesprings i went with patriot gold extremes if im not mistaking its good for .650 lift, my cam max lift is at .610 on the intake, i was told to set my limiter to 6800 but i got it set to 6500 so it can be idiot proof. the point is the stock beehive springs are horrible and will begin to float if you take it any higher then 6200, the ls6 cam which is a little differant requires the yellow springs because the stock ls1 springs wont handle it. try to get your car dynoed in to see the rpm ranges. btw if you were ordering a custom cam you can have the advance ground in.
quick easy answer....rod bolts, valve springs, and nitrous....Nitrous will allow you to make power to that RPM and the rod bolts and valve springs will keep everything together for the most part...not the most technical answer but it meets your goals to a T
