cam install quesion
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From: Upper Marlboro, MD
cam install quesion Im going to be installing my B1 here shortly, and a buddy of mine is going to be doing the major parts of the install helping me along the way. He said I'm giong to need an air compressor to put air into the cylinders to keep the valves up when changing the springs? what exactly do I need to do that? also what Valvespring tool would you recommend?
A compression gauge fitting with the 1/4" air nipple to fit a 1/4" standard hose coupler.
There are alot of valve spring tools it's a matter of preference.
I use the standard compressor w/the faucet handle, it is small to get under cowl.
Some like the tool from more performance>>> sponsor list>>>How about some pen magnets to ensure no lifters fall into the oil pan??
There are alot of valve spring tools it's a matter of preference.
I use the standard compressor w/the faucet handle, it is small to get under cowl.
Some like the tool from more performance>>> sponsor list>>>How about some pen magnets to ensure no lifters fall into the oil pan??
Last edited by wrencher; Jan 4, 2004 at 12:38 PM.
You need to rent or buy an air compressor and some fittings so you can attach the air hose to the spark plug hole. However, you can do the top dead center method as an effective alternative. Some say that it goes faster than the air compressor method.
As for the spring compressor tool, I would not suggest the MORE tool, simply because it costs to much and I think I heard it can't get the back springs. I would also not reccomend the ones you rent from Autozone because they have a tendancy to break the bolts off in the heads, turning your cam swap into a nightmare. I used Larry Sample's tool and it worked VERY well, got to the back ones like they were nothing. There is a thread about his tool in the "Tools of the Trade" section, I'm not sure if he has any left but you could make your own based on his design...
As for the spring compressor tool, I would not suggest the MORE tool, simply because it costs to much and I think I heard it can't get the back springs. I would also not reccomend the ones you rent from Autozone because they have a tendancy to break the bolts off in the heads, turning your cam swap into a nightmare. I used Larry Sample's tool and it worked VERY well, got to the back ones like they were nothing. There is a thread about his tool in the "Tools of the Trade" section, I'm not sure if he has any left but you could make your own based on his design...
TECH Junkie
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From: Los Angeles
You definitly do not need an air compressor, and in fact I recommend the "Top Dead Center method" as depicted and described here: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
TECH Fanatic
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From: Indianapolis
A few things here. I would use the TDC method instead of air compressor.Just turn the crank. The valves will sit on the pistons. 2nd 1/4 inch plastic tubing will work to keep the lifters up. They slide in around the cam,you will see what i mean.Larry sell a great tool under tools of the trade section. Its the best type. Great cam by the way 
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Joined: May 2002
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From: one step ahead of you
Originally Posted by 98SS Blackattack
2nd 1/4 inch plastic tubing will work to keep the lifters up. They slide in around the cam,you will see what i mean.
I used pen magnets once and one got stuck in the lifter retainer thingys and broke. The last 4" or so with the magnet were in the galley. Thank god the really thin needle nose pliers barely got in there. Never again.
I would really like to see a pic of this. Are there holes in the block for the tubing to slide in or something? And they block the lifters from falling?
Thanks
Originally Posted by jmX
You definitly do not need an air compressor, and in fact I recommend the "Top Dead Center method" as depicted and described here: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
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10 Second Club
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From: Fenton, MI
Originally Posted by Y2K2LS1
Any pics of this?
I used pen magnets once and one got stuck in the lifter retainer thingys and broke. The last 4" or so with the magnet were in the galley. Thank god the really thin needle nose pliers barely got in there. Never again.
I would really like to see a pic of this. Are there holes in the block for the tubing to slide in or something? And they block the lifters from falling?
Thanks
I used pen magnets once and one got stuck in the lifter retainer thingys and broke. The last 4" or so with the magnet were in the galley. Thank god the really thin needle nose pliers barely got in there. Never again.
I would really like to see a pic of this. Are there holes in the block for the tubing to slide in or something? And they block the lifters from falling?
Thanks
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AutoZone loans out a OEM brand compressor tool that compresses the spring directly without using the rocker bolt threads for leverage, but with the money you save by doing this job yourself you should be able to afford your own spring tool.
TECH Junkie
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From: Los Angeles
Originally Posted by Jorday
I saw this happen on a car that was having a cam change. Luckily, he got the pen magnet free without breaking it by pulling it out hard.
Here's a new tip that I have yet to add to my website.
I've noticed on newer cars that pen magnets seem to get stuck down in the lifter retainers. It could be the style of magnets those people were using too, but either way, clean the magnets and about 3" of the magnet stem right at the base of the magnet and TAPE TIGHTLY around the base. The problem with them getting stuck is that the lip of the magnet tip gets caught inside the lifter retainer, so if you put a tightly wrapped piece of duct tape, packing tape, something that wont come loose around the base, they won't get caught and will come right back out really easily.
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From: Indianapolis
Originally Posted by Y2K2LS1
Any pics of this?
I used pen magnets once and one got stuck in the lifter retainer thingys and broke. The last 4" or so with the magnet were in the galley. Thank god the really thin needle nose pliers barely got in there. Never again.
I would really like to see a pic of this. Are there holes in the block for the tubing to slide in or something? And they block the lifters from falling?
Thanks
I used pen magnets once and one got stuck in the lifter retainer thingys and broke. The last 4" or so with the magnet were in the galley. Thank god the really thin needle nose pliers barely got in there. Never again.
I would really like to see a pic of this. Are there holes in the block for the tubing to slide in or something? And they block the lifters from falling?
Thanks
Originally Posted by Ferocity02
I used Larry Sample's tool and it worked VERY well, got to the back ones like they were nothing. There is a thread about his tool in the "Tools of the Trade" section, I'm not sure if he has any left but you could make your own based on his design...
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Cleveland, OH
As for me, I followed jmX's advice on ls1howto and ordered the JPR lifter tool. I only checked one place but those stupid magnetic pens cost $4 each so I didn't fell like spending $65 on 16 of them. Might as well get the JPR for $80. Since I already had a compressor, I also went to the parts store and picked up the fitting.
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From: Los Angeles
I would recommend that if the timing cover is off, everybody use the TDC method. The only downside to the method is that the valve does drop maybe a quarter inch, and that can sometimes mean you have to compress the new springs even further before the valve locks will fit in...just a little annoying, but nothing major. With air, the valves stay all the way up so you wont need to compress the springs as much.
Another vote for the TDC method. And the valve droping 1/4 inch wasn't a probelm for me; I just grabbed the valve stems with my fingers and pulled them back up before putting the valve locks in. They will stay up because of the friction in the valve seal.
