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im rebuiling my LS1 please help!!!

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Old 01-07-2004, 05:54 PM
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Default im rebuiling my LS1 please help!!!

Okay guys im rebuilding my ls1 so far iv ordered all new bolts, piston rings, had the crank turned, ordered over size bearings, new springs and cam, using same rods lifers and push rods, and values, cleaned every spec of old oil out of the engine, except the cylinder heads, have all new gaskets, new timing set, re-oiled the engine…..so is there any thing else I need to do like a test or something to make sure the engine want blow up or sling a rod and kill someone b4 I get it put together, iv got all the right tools and have the torque specs for the engine, its just that iv never put an engine together b4 and I want to learn how and ill take my time doing it even if it takes me a year to get it put together right, I want to do it right the first time, iv got my brother to help me but he has never built an LS1 b4, any help would be grateful….. thanks

Last edited by sr_ryan1; 01-07-2004 at 06:15 PM.
Old 01-07-2004, 05:59 PM
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well, just be sure that you check all your tolerances, if you can get ahold of a break away torque guage (forgot the technical name ??), feeler guages, torque everything correctly (specs are on JMX's site as well as serrvice manuals) and fire her up. oh yeah and the #5 main cap goes in backwards. good luck and have fun with it!
Old 01-07-2004, 06:14 PM
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thanks for the input vent's and ill be sure to check JMX's site out do you have the URl for that site thanks again
Old 01-07-2004, 06:16 PM
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I would get a set of pistons and forged rods while you are at it. You dont want to have to pull the motor apart to put them in later if you want to spray.

Also check www.ls1howto.com
Old 01-07-2004, 06:32 PM
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If your replacing the rings then you have to have the cylinders honned or the rings will never seat, and you will burn oil like no tommorow. Long as your doing that have it line bored and have the heads shaved about .008 to clean up the warp on them (aluminum heads usually warp a bit upon removing them from a seasoned engine).
Old 01-07-2004, 06:58 PM
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you mean i need to have the whole block rebored? well what if i just keep the stock rings on? i dont really see any thing wrong the the old rings on there now, i just though id replace them for the heck of it, yeah im going to have the heads shaved as well.
Old 01-07-2004, 07:44 PM
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how much would it cost to have the block honned?
Old 01-07-2004, 08:00 PM
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Can you still see the crosshatching in the cylinder bores?
Old 01-07-2004, 08:31 PM
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im not really sure but the cylinder bores are smooth all the way down, its got about 50K miles on it
Old 01-07-2004, 08:48 PM
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You don't see criss-cross hone marks on the walls, you should see some if you look. You would want to probably run a ball hone thru the bores to deglaze the cylinder walls.
Old 01-07-2004, 08:57 PM
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well i took some steal wool and scrubed the bors out to clean it up real good, it looks all hazzi now.
Old 01-08-2004, 01:34 AM
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As the lifters have been out with no pressure on them, ala the tension maintained by the valvetrain, it is a good idea to drop them in a container of oil until you are ready to put them back in and torque everything down (or at least a minimum of 30 minutes before you start). This allows the oil to seep back into the lifters and displace most of the air that inevitably gets inside when they're laying around. Cheap and easy safeguard.
Old 01-08-2004, 01:51 AM
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I think you are going to have to get new rings and pistons. Even if the rings dont look worn they have 50k on them so they are worn out some what. I dont know if you will be able to even run stock piston because you have to have the block hone out. If the bore is to big and the piston is to small you will have piston slap and lots of other problems. Do your self a faver and get new over sized pistons.
Old 01-08-2004, 05:30 AM
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I got my LQ9 out of an interior fire.. The cam and main bearing were like new.. Looked like it hadn't been broken in yet.. The engine sat for a short time however and had a very small amount of pitting on a couple cylinder walls.. I took it to a local machine shop and they honed each cylinder .001" for $80.. They looked like new with the cross hatch.. We put the stock pistons and rings back in the engine.. Broke it in for 1000 easy miles.. It's running great now.. Ran a 7.57@91.43 @3800 lbs in the 1/8th few weeks ago.. Not bad for a cam only and the first time ever driving at the track.. Good luck to you..
Old 01-08-2004, 09:24 AM
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thanks for the input guys ill do what bigeller has done and get the bors honned .001 btw bigeller what cam you running? im thanking of putting in a B1 cam or T1 iv got the zo6 cam and springs now but i want more low end power cuase this LS1 is running in a s-10 Blazer......w/ 315's in the back
Old 01-08-2004, 04:39 PM
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I'm running the TSP 228R.. I like the B1 and T1 alot.. Couldn't go wrong with either choice.. Ought to be sweet in the Blazer..

Originally Posted by sr_ryan1
thanks for the input guys ill do what bigeller has done and get the bors honned .001 btw bigeller what cam you running? im thanking of putting in a B1 cam or T1 iv got the zo6 cam and springs now but i want more low end power cuase this LS1 is running in a s-10 Blazer......w/ 315's in the back




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