New shortblock vs stroked stocker?
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From: Phoenix/Tempe, AZ
New shortblock vs stroked stocker? So im looking to swap out my shortblock thats having ring issues.. Ive done some searching but with so many different goals out there it was hard to find something worthwhile (decided to make a new thread too, since my last one didnt have a clear question)..
Does it make more sense to get a new 383 (texas speed, or schwanke it looks like), or to pull my 70k mile '00 block and get it machined?
I do wanna stay with an aluminum block, and id like to keep my AFR 205s/fast 90, so i decided against a gen4 swap (on the expensive side) or an iron block (nice n cheap). I currently have a 236/236 cam but i plan on putting a new cam in whatever i go with. I was making 430 at the wheels, in what range should I expect with a 383? other recommended setups?
It looks like a new shortblock would be a few hundred more, but is there any difference in longevity? do most of these builders offer warranties?
a lot of people (From what ive read) are saying go 402 instead, but it seems more expensive for (usually) an iron block, and i just plan to keep it a heads/cam car that i daily drive (maybe with a little juice, but not enough to warrant a build around it)
anyway, thanks for the opinions/info/advice/experience
Does it make more sense to get a new 383 (texas speed, or schwanke it looks like), or to pull my 70k mile '00 block and get it machined?
I do wanna stay with an aluminum block, and id like to keep my AFR 205s/fast 90, so i decided against a gen4 swap (on the expensive side) or an iron block (nice n cheap). I currently have a 236/236 cam but i plan on putting a new cam in whatever i go with. I was making 430 at the wheels, in what range should I expect with a 383? other recommended setups?
It looks like a new shortblock would be a few hundred more, but is there any difference in longevity? do most of these builders offer warranties?
a lot of people (From what ive read) are saying go 402 instead, but it seems more expensive for (usually) an iron block, and i just plan to keep it a heads/cam car that i daily drive (maybe with a little juice, but not enough to warrant a build around it)
anyway, thanks for the opinions/info/advice/experience
I would call around to some local machine shops that know what there doing with the lsx moter and get some prices on the machine work. Add that to the rotating assembly cost and then compare to your SB quotes.
If you have a local machine shop that you know and trust to do your work, that has experience machining this platform already, then get their quote. *** the price of the parts and your time for assembly.
Then compare that to an assembled short-block, and see what the difference is. In many cases, people call and tell us that they can't have it done as inexpensively as they can buy one from us, and that their machine shop hasn't done many LSx engines. At that point, it only makes sense to buy a new combo!
Then compare that to an assembled short-block, and see what the difference is. In many cases, people call and tell us that they can't have it done as inexpensively as they can buy one from us, and that their machine shop hasn't done many LSx engines. At that point, it only makes sense to buy a new combo!
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I think its definitely cheaper to build it yourself when you consider that a rotating assembly can be had for under $2K including rings and bearings plus the machine work you need done. A new shortblock already assembled is over $4K for Aluminum. Of course thats not adding your time for assembly/installation but I never add my time since I enjoy doing it. I've been considering this same route although mine won't be for a couple years - 383 LS6 or a 402+ short block. Should be fun either way.
I've got some of the most popular short-blocks in stock and ready to go. The less common combos that are built to order are about 4 weeks out or so right now after you order!
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Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
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I think its definitely cheaper to build it yourself when you consider that a rotating assembly can be had for under $2K including rings and bearings plus the machine work you need done. A new shortblock already assembled is over $4K for Aluminum. Of course thats not adding your time for assembly/installation but I never add my time since I enjoy doing it. I've been considering this same route although mine won't be for a couple years - 383 LS6 or a 402+ short block. Should be fun either way.
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Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Phoenix/Tempe, AZ
Our 383 stroker aluminum block would be $3799.99 shipped to him.
The difference is the LS1 383 uses a 3.898 bore with a 4" stroke and the LM 388 would be a 3.908" bore with a 4" stroke, I believe.
