Cam installation tips/suggestions
Cam installation tips/suggestions I'm about to install a cam in my F-Body in the next couple of weeks. I'm looking for any tips or suggestions. Like how high to jack the car up? How about changing the springs under the cowl? How long should it take? That kind of stuff. I'm familiar with the procedure on LS1howto, followed step by step when I did H/C/I on my c5. Real easy, just took all weekend. Never done an F-Body before, post suggestions from your experience. Thanks!
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The back two springs on both sides are a mother @#$%er to get to, depending on which tool you're using. I tried a stud mount compressor for the front ones and didn't even get one changed. The damn thing bent on me on the first try. It's also hard with the hand-crank spring compressor. The best i've found, and yet to use is this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99475-1/
I would imagine that tool would save lots of time. Took me about a good four hours to change them all (with complications). I was doing the "rotate-the-engine and let the valve hit the piston method" and almost lost a valve. Turns out the crank dampener or whatev is on the front must've been taken off and not re-aligned.
I would imagine that tool would save lots of time. Took me about a good four hours to change them all (with complications). I was doing the "rotate-the-engine and let the valve hit the piston method" and almost lost a valve. Turns out the crank dampener or whatev is on the front must've been taken off and not re-aligned.
I have the tool that bolts to the head. I think it's called Tim's tool. I tried it out on an old set of LS heads I have and it worked well.
What method did you use to hold the lifters up?
Good thing you didn't lose that valve!
What method did you use to hold the lifters up?
Good thing you didn't lose that valve!
I have always laid everything out and prepared the new cam (or cam being installed) to just pick up and ~slide~ in. When I get ready to take out the old cam I spin it over a few times as fast as I can by hand. The best way I found to do this is just take the 3 long bolts from the water pump and thread them into the cam. Kinda gives you a litte bit of a handle. If you take it out and install the next within a minute or so the lifters don't have enough time to bleed down. I have yet to have one that doesnt hang up top for a little while, but it does happen from time to time. You can always get some 22" pieces of 5/16 brake line and slide it in as you sling the lifters upward if its going to bother you that one may bleed down.
I did however just for document sake buy 16 pen magnets and attempt that way. It was pretty scary. Here is a picture:
You can even see how I put the bolts in the cam.
I did however just for document sake buy 16 pen magnets and attempt that way. It was pretty scary. Here is a picture:
You can even see how I put the bolts in the cam.
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Cam is real easy man just make sure you get that timing chain lined back up.. I used a marker and made several marks so I knew it would be just right. springs you are going to hate life on some but its not to bad, just take your time and don't rush. If you are rich and don't care about money some shops will do it all for about 400. <<<Just a thought.
Pen magnets helped us when we did two swaps. Just like the pic above, spin the cam and pull it out slowly. It is a slightly scary method though.
Used the same tim's tool and it worked perfect.
The dowel rod method DID NOT work on either motor. We got the recommended size from on here and you can see (if you shine a light in) that the rods do diddly squat for holding lifters.
Used the same tim's tool and it worked perfect.
The dowel rod method DID NOT work on either motor. We got the recommended size from on here and you can see (if you shine a light in) that the rods do diddly squat for holding lifters.
If I can't be SURE the lifters won't stay in the trays, the cam is not coming out. I planned on getting some 5/16 brake lines to slide in.
Shiv, you're saying that the lifter can fall with the dowels in?
Shiv, you're saying that the lifter can fall with the dowels in?
I borrowed the tool that pivots around the stock rocker post with a ratchet from a friend. PITA, this will be my next tool purchase, http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...nter/sd99472-1
He would get on the opposite side of the car and hold the spring down while I attempted to get the locks in. That was if you didn't drop them or someone lost their grip. Sometimes I would hold and sometimes he would hold, PITA holding down the PRC golds for any amount of time if the locks are being stubborn.
We used a small Craftsman compressor to hold the valves up. Good thing about that is, it let me know cylinder 7 rings allow alot of bypass, yay!!
Also helps to tap the top of the valve/retainer with a rubber mallet when you are starting to compress the spring, it helps free the locks up. Sometimes it would just compress the entire valve before the locks would come out.
DON'T DROP THE OIL PICKUP BOLT if you change your oil pump. I did, that was not fun. Ended up draining 700 mile oil...
Get a BIG breaker bar for crank bolt.
He would get on the opposite side of the car and hold the spring down while I attempted to get the locks in. That was if you didn't drop them or someone lost their grip. Sometimes I would hold and sometimes he would hold, PITA holding down the PRC golds for any amount of time if the locks are being stubborn.
We used a small Craftsman compressor to hold the valves up. Good thing about that is, it let me know cylinder 7 rings allow alot of bypass, yay!!
Also helps to tap the top of the valve/retainer with a rubber mallet when you are starting to compress the spring, it helps free the locks up. Sometimes it would just compress the entire valve before the locks would come out.
DON'T DROP THE OIL PICKUP BOLT if you change your oil pump. I did, that was not fun. Ended up draining 700 mile oil...
Get a BIG breaker bar for crank bolt.
They sell rods that slide down both sides to hold up the lifters.. Look it up if you are worried they will fall out. But I really don't think you will have a problem.
Yeah, expensive rods. Not really worried about one falling, but the concesquences are severe if one does. I'd like to have some insurance. I think I wonder what are the chances that one falls.
I remember when I did the heads and cam on my C5, I took a lifter tray with two lifters and held it up to see if it would hold them. They didn't even slide down. I'm pretty confident they'll stay up, but there's always that chance.
I'm giving myself three days to do the job. Four years ago it took me three days to swap heads, cam and intake on my vette.
If it takes a little longer, oh well. I understand when you rush stuff like this, you end up messing something up.
I'm giving myself three days to do the job. Four years ago it took me three days to swap heads, cam and intake on my vette.
If it takes a little longer, oh well. I understand when you rush stuff like this, you end up messing something up.
lol I said the same thing when I did it. but the trays really do hold it tight.. just wait till the motor is cooled off all the way im sure you will be fine. I have had it done twice on mine and seen it done alot. and no problems. Just do it like they say on www.ls1howto.com. and what would cost more all them magnets or the rods. lol that just looks crazy above..if you ever take the heads off you will see how well the trays hold you can acually pull them all the way out and the trays still holding it..
The worry with the magnet method (and especially on a warm motor) is that it can heat the glue up holding the tips on and they get stuck to the lifter...yikes. My motor was nearly hot still when I did that.
I just finished installing the valve springs. Not too bad of a job. It took me about 7 hours. I could have done it way faster if I'd have used the TDC method for holding the valves up. It took forever to thread my fitting/hose into the spark plug holes. I had about given up on #7. I ended up having to get it in from the bottom. #5 was almost as bad.
if I had to do it over again, I would have started on the passenger side first. The driver's side is not nearly as bad.
I dropped the starter (out of curiosity but had to be done anyway) to see how to lock the flywheel to remove the crank pulley. All I saw was teeth. How do I secure the flywheel with a screwdriver? I was hoping I'd see some holes in the flywheel to stick a screwdriver through, though I didn't turn the motor over to see.
One thing I have a question about, on LS1howto it dosen't say anything about sealing the timing chain cover by lowering the oil pan a little. Does this have to be done?
At least I think the hardest part of the install is done.
if I had to do it over again, I would have started on the passenger side first. The driver's side is not nearly as bad.
I dropped the starter (out of curiosity but had to be done anyway) to see how to lock the flywheel to remove the crank pulley. All I saw was teeth. How do I secure the flywheel with a screwdriver? I was hoping I'd see some holes in the flywheel to stick a screwdriver through, though I didn't turn the motor over to see.
One thing I have a question about, on LS1howto it dosen't say anything about sealing the timing chain cover by lowering the oil pan a little. Does this have to be done?
At least I think the hardest part of the install is done.
I just finished installing the valve springs. Not too bad of a job. It took me about 7 hours. I could have done it way faster if I'd have used the TDC method for holding the valves up. It took forever to thread my fitting/hose into the spark plug holes. I had about given up on #7. I ended up having to get it in from the bottom. #5 was almost as bad.
if I had to do it over again, I would have started on the passenger side first. The driver's side is not nearly as bad.
I dropped the starter (out of curiosity but had to be done anyway) to see how to lock the flywheel to remove the crank pulley. All I saw was teeth. How do I secure the flywheel with a screwdriver? I was hoping I'd see some holes in the flywheel to stick a screwdriver through, though I didn't turn the motor over to see.
One thing I have a question about, on LS1howto it dosen't say anything about sealing the timing chain cover by lowering the oil pan a little. Does this have to be done?
At least I think the hardest part of the install is done.
if I had to do it over again, I would have started on the passenger side first. The driver's side is not nearly as bad.
I dropped the starter (out of curiosity but had to be done anyway) to see how to lock the flywheel to remove the crank pulley. All I saw was teeth. How do I secure the flywheel with a screwdriver? I was hoping I'd see some holes in the flywheel to stick a screwdriver through, though I didn't turn the motor over to see.
One thing I have a question about, on LS1howto it dosen't say anything about sealing the timing chain cover by lowering the oil pan a little. Does this have to be done?
At least I think the hardest part of the install is done.