As of now I'm running a forged internal ls1 block honed out to 3.903, ls6 intake, ls6 TB, patriot 59cc 243 heads. My problem lies within my car, I'm putting this in a 1987 porsche 944 and it should weigh around 2,500-2,650lbs. So most posts are for a much heavier car and that throws some stuff off. I'm not looking for a drag car at all, I'm looking for running it during high performance road track events but it will also be a daily driver. lobe size? lobe separation? lobe duration? Or just valve train suggestions.

 

What do you think your RPM range is going to be 90% of the time. That helps with what cam you choose, lobe size, separation, LSA etc etc.

 

JMHO, but you already have most of the LS6 stuff. Why not just start with an LS6 cam? Your going to make upward of 400HP with that!

I run an LS1/4L60E powered 1986 Mazda RX7 with an 8.8 ford IRS. My motor is stock and I can promise you your going to "throw some stuff".

Some of the guys at norotor.com run SCCA racing events and they run LS6/T56 setups. They can run with the big boys and there is no reason you cant!

I've riden in some LS6/T56 RX7's and I can tell you that they are VERY nice for daily driving. And when you wish to play? Well you can run mid 11''s in the 1/4 mile as well!

2800lbs. from the factory ,stripped and race rady they drop to about 2600lbs.

 

Put something in it, in the range of 224/232 on a 113 man. You will love the rpm range and feel of this cam profile, as well as have power everywhere and in any gear. I know this from using this in a fiero with similar combo to yours.

 

I'm looking for power from 2500-6000. I'd rather sacrifice high end hp and torque and get a flat peak curve.

 

Lets say I was playing with the idea of a solid roller cam. What numbers should I be looking at then? Joe, where did you pull those numbers from. I'd like to know why you suggested those, I don't like the whole "monkey see monkey do" form of choosing cams.

 

If you're thinking something in the realm of a solid roller, then you should ditch that ls6 intake/tb ASAP! You'll need to turn some serious rpm's, and that intake setup won't allow it to breathe adequately!

 

Solid roller= NO GO! imo Way to aggressive what your trying to do and accomplish.

I have used this cam profile in 2 M6 car applications with #243s heads with LS6 intakes, both motors being around 10.25scr with headers and all the boltons. 1 was in a GTO and the other was a Pontiac Fiero with a LS6 transplant, and both cusomers wanted power/torque from 2000-6000k. And, they both are tame as can be, untill you nail it, giving both power/torque everywhere thru the rpm range. The GTO is awesome, and the Fiero is a crazy bigass go kart! lol It's a cam profile I used couple years ago on a mild blown 346 deal, then when the GTO project cam around, I applied same design because of the rpm range it worked so well in, and just tightend the LDA up and moved my ICL alittle forward to work better in a N/A application.

 

I'd keep it simple. Run a TR224/114 with a set of PAC or Comp 918 springs and call it done. With that light car it'll feel like a rocket at every rpm and drive like stock.

 

I'll co-sign this.

 

get a custom cam from EPS.

 

I've heard a TON of mixed things about solid roller cam and lifters. But no one has given me an explanation. If you're saying its too aggressive because the intake is too small that's something I'm willing to upgrade. I know solid lifters need to be lashed every 9 months or so but why would it be to aggressive?

 

Most of the time they are not a small/mild ground cam. Are you road racing this thing or autox'ing? If you are looking to road race
this car I would look into spending your money where it is going to matter. Oiling. Look into a dry sump setup or something of the like. Run your LS6 intake and 22X cam with no worries. Its a forged motor, might as well keep it in one piece.

 

Here ya go. This is a road race engine with a solid setup and a dry sump.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...inal-cost.html