block in car - fly cutting
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach, FL
block in car - fly cutting Is it possible using the lindy / isky type cutters? I have read somewhere that it can be done. I know 90% of the people have done them on the engine stand. Im trying to avoid pulling the whole motor if i can. Doing a head cam swap, ported 241's 2.05I 1.60E and a trex in a 4th gen fbody. I know i will have ptv clearance issues. If i can get it done with the block in car, it would save me a ton of time! Anyone have experience? Thanks
Is it possible using the lindy / isky type cutters? I have read somewhere that it can be done. I know 90% of the people have done them on the engine stand. Im trying to avoid pulling the whole motor if i can. Doing a head cam swap, ported 241's 2.05I 1.60E and a trex in a 4th gen fbody. I know i will have ptv clearance issues. If i can get it done with the block in car, it would save me a ton of time! Anyone have experience? Thanks
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach, FL
I was planning on using the stock heads to flycut. That way nothing can happen to my ported set.
Here is a good write up. Its not an fbody but you get the idea of what your in for.https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ngine-car.html
Thanks, Joe
Drill? I turn it by hand/wrench and takes 20 seconds at most.We took a stock head,knocked out the valve seats,measured it all out and welded the stop and a nut on the end.That way it won't over cut a piston.They are set at .080" cut's.
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I use a head that I had one cylinder cut off of and use the 1 cylinder part. Once cutting depth is set, you can do every cylinder with the same intake or exhaust cutter and never have to change it. You just move the 1 cylinder head from cylinder to cylinder all the way around. Changing the cutter to each cylinder on a complete head and resetting depth seemed time consuming to me.
I use a cheap close quarters drill from Harbor Freight. It was like 20 or 30 bucks.
I use a cheap close quarters drill from Harbor Freight. It was like 20 or 30 bucks.
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ee-almost.html
The only difference is I am threading the 8mm valve stem to 1/4 inch and using a lock nut to set the cut depth. That way I can vary my cut depth for reusability on different setups without having to hunt around for objects of the appropriate size to act as a stop. My heads have 2.055 valves and I'm using a 2.100 valve with a 40 grit sanding disk to have adequate radial clearance.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Im planning on doing it this weekend. A member of another forum just flycut his pistons and is going to let me borrow the tools. Im trying to take pics and document as i go, but its hard to remember to stop. Plus idk if anyone is really that interested LOL.
Even with my engine out of the car I plan on using a tap wrench. I think there'll be less potential issues. I've never done this before and want to keep it simple. I'm planning on using the heads that will be going on my engine. I am waiting on my valves to get here, but I am kind of doing as such:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ee-almost.html
The only difference is I am threading the 8mm valve stem to 1/4 inch and using a lock nut to set the cut depth. That way I can vary my cut depth for reusability on different setups without having to hunt around for objects of the appropriate size to act as a stop. My heads have 2.055 valves and I'm using a 2.100 valve with a 40 grit sanding disk to have adequate radial clearance.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ee-almost.html
The only difference is I am threading the 8mm valve stem to 1/4 inch and using a lock nut to set the cut depth. That way I can vary my cut depth for reusability on different setups without having to hunt around for objects of the appropriate size to act as a stop. My heads have 2.055 valves and I'm using a 2.100 valve with a 40 grit sanding disk to have adequate radial clearance.
that is what paint it black tried first then he rented my Lindy tools...just alot easier and less hassle and gives alot more consistent results...my Lindy tool measures 2.10 intake with a radiused edge and exhaust measures 1.66...
and I couldn't imagine not using a powered drill, it would take forever
Chris
that is what paint it black tried first then he rented my Lindy tools...just alot easier and less hassle and gives alot more consistent results...my Lindy tool measures 2.10 intake with a radiused edge and exhaust measures 1.66...
and I couldn't imagine not using a powered drill, it would take forever
Chris
and I couldn't imagine not using a powered drill, it would take forever
Chris
The difference is I have $35 in the whole thing including an extra $12 valve. I am only doing the intake side, but if I was doing the exhaust as well the cost would be the same as it is now. I don't mind it taking a little longer for spending barely any money of the thing. My engine is also sitting on a pallet so that's another added advantage.
good luck though, just trying to save you some trouble
I use a head that I had one cylinder cut off of and use the 1 cylinder part. Once cutting depth is set, you can do every cylinder with the same intake or exhaust cutter and never have to change it. You just move the 1 cylinder head from cylinder to cylinder all the way around. Changing the cutter to each cylinder on a complete head and resetting depth seemed time consuming to me.
I use a cheap close quarters drill from Harbor Freight. It was like 20 or 30 bucks.
I use a cheap close quarters drill from Harbor Freight. It was like 20 or 30 bucks.
