Are rod and rocker arm bolts re-usable?
what other rods could I have... lol... yea I mean the conn. rod bolts. I pulled one cap to check the bearing and I am just going to re-install if it is kosher. I want to see what a 130k completly stock bottom 5.3 will take from my abusive driving style. So just wondering if I need to get two new ones or if the ones I pulled will be ok to re-use
You would be surprised how many people think that there are push rod bolts. LOL.
Good rule of thumb is to replace the stock ones with some better holding ones if you plan on cranking out the RPMs. Plus, you already have the pan off and are staring them in the face. I would do it now before it lets go later. Katech or ARP is generally the way that most people go for replacement. I am not sure if the stockers are TTY, but most people pull and replace them first chance they get, so there isn't a lot of discussion on re-using them.
Good rule of thumb is to replace the stock ones with some better holding ones if you plan on cranking out the RPMs. Plus, you already have the pan off and are staring them in the face. I would do it now before it lets go later. Katech or ARP is generally the way that most people go for replacement. I am not sure if the stockers are TTY, but most people pull and replace them first chance they get, so there isn't a lot of discussion on re-using them.
I am trying to see the limits of the stock bottom. The rods havent been out I pulled one cap to see what the bearing looked like to make sure I would have a shot at it having a chance at living. I dont care if this motor blows up it was $200 I am trying to stay on a budget. If I do go with aftermarket pieces it will be the Katech units as they dont require rod re-sizing. So the question still stands... are they safe to re-torque?
As for ARP/Katech, neither should need resizing. Both might distort the bore, but either one would do it. They are both aftermarket bolts that provide a higher clamping load than factory stuff.
How much is your time worth? Things like this usually find the most inopportune time to break...is changing one engine for another [$200] 5.3 because a rod bolt let go technically cheaper? The ARP's aren't very expensive, don't need checking, and will outlast the factory rods by a good margin. Peace of mind is a very nice thing when you're trying to enjoy driving.
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I am trying to see the limits of the stock bottom. The rods havent been out I pulled one cap to see what the bearing looked like to make sure I would have a shot at it having a chance at living. I dont care if this motor blows up it was $200 I am trying to stay on a budget. If I do go with aftermarket pieces it will be the Katech units as they dont require rod re-sizing. So the question still stands... are they safe to re-torque?
Higher clamping force equals distortion. Is it enough to require resizing? Maybe.Personally I'd check everytime unless I didn't give a damn what happens to it. Since that is where you are give it hell and see what happens.
The Katech screws aren't magic
They function the exact same way a fastener from ARP,SPS,etc. does. They are just a fastener. LS1 Tech Stories
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Higher clamping force equals distortion. Is it enough to require resizing? Maybe.Personally I'd check everytime unless I didn't give a damn what happens to it. Since that is where you are give it hell and see what happens.
The Katech screws aren't magic They function the exact same way a fastener from ARP,SPS,etc. does. They are just a fastener.
The Katech screws aren't magic
They function the exact same way a fastener from ARP,SPS,etc. does. They are just a fastener.BS? Who knows, that's what I remember hearing.
I dont want this to turn into a "which rod bolts are best" thread guys... that is a pretty beat topic at this point... lets just figure out my original question and kill this thread and leave it for others to search down the road
As for the arp/katech bore distortion - the powdered metal material/process/forging used to make these rods is REALLY stiff, just like a casting, except WAY better. Because of this, either rod bolt, even though its got a higher clamping force, really doesn't do much to affect the bore, although in theory, it should. Forged, especially gm sbc rods, have a certain amount of give, like any forging, and get distorted easier than the PM rods.
I did an essay on the PM process 2 years ago, and found some interest articles on blocks being made of PM. Lighter than a cast iron block, and far stronger.
Anyways, as for if the factory rods bolt torque spec, a first try
seach not only found me the torque specs, but also if they are re-usable. 
I think ARPs are a good idea since its all ready and easy at this point. What if you like what the 5.3 puts out, but can't enjoy it b/c you're concerned about the rod bolts letting go???
I'm not the expert here, but from my experience, the rod bolts are to be replaced.
I differ from the ARP/Katech recommendation, and since you're on a budget, recommend the LS6 rod bolts. They're good enough for 400+rwhp, and 6500.
You can buy them for $2.63ea + ship.
I differ from the ARP/Katech recommendation, and since you're on a budget, recommend the LS6 rod bolts. They're good enough for 400+rwhp, and 6500.
You can buy them for $2.63ea + ship.
