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Porting your own oil pump

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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 04:42 AM
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Question Porting your own oil pump

Is it possible to port your stock oil pump? I read that the ls1 pump is the same as the ls6 pump, so would there be any problems doing the port work myself?
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 06:35 AM
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it is the same, depending on the year of your car. and yes, you can do it yourself.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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just curious... why would one need to do this? Are the pumps not the best in untouched form? What do you gain? Just a peice of mind?
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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The only gain is higher flow. In stock form the pump is adequate, it's just a little extra insurance. All they really do is knock out a little of the obstruction out of the intake side.

There are some cases where I've actually seen a high flow pump cause more issues than it solves. With really high flow it's possible to pump enough oil to the top end of the motor to start sucking air. Not exactly the best way to create oil pressure.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 11:07 PM
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Wait a minute. Do you mean flow being pumped to the top end can increase so much that the pan is pumped nearly dry of oil before the oil can flow back down into the bottom end and the pump pickup goes into cavitation? I doubt that a dremmel tool can make that big of a difference.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 11:53 PM
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Anyone have specs on how much you can port a stock LS1 oil pump? I have a friend that owns a machine shop and could port mine, save money on buying one.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 06:06 AM
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I would think the aftermarket pumps would be sufficient. Maybe if you were racing formula 1 or something.... but I think people get carried away sometimes doing things out of hear-say. The more you open up something to free its flow you could lower the output pressure also. I shimmed mine for one of my turbo builds but having it apart and inpsecting it, it looked pretty good the way it was I thought. I would buy a high volume one or a high pressure one versus grinding one.... unless your just smoothing the mating surfaces (port matching). My opinion though... be nice to see some tests if there is something to do that does help and not hinder anything.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
Wait a minute. Do you mean flow being pumped to the top end can increase so much that the pan is pumped nearly dry of oil before the oil can flow back down into the bottom end and the pump pickup goes into cavitation? I doubt that a dremmel tool can make that big of a difference.
That's exactly the case. I've seen it multiple times. It typically happens during extended high RPM runs. It's amazing what cleaning up the vacuum side of a pump will do.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Rhino
The only gain is higher flow. In stock form the pump is adequate, it's just a little extra insurance. All they really do is knock out a little of the obstruction out of the intake side.

There are some cases where I've actually seen a high flow pump cause more issues than it solves. With really high flow it's possible to pump enough oil to the top end of the motor to start sucking air. Not exactly the best way to create oil pressure.

I really doubt this. The Melling 10296 pumps 18% more than stock and I don't think porting a stocker will make it flow more than a 10296. And lots of respected builders use the 10296. HKE just put one in the build going in my car.....

There were some bearing failures in LS1 vettes that were road raced but it was from oil sloshing and exposing the pickup to air, not by pumping all the oil to the top of the motor.... One of the things that these guys started doing was running 20-w50 (Bondurant Driving School) that in theory stays up top longer and drains back into the pan slower.... Specially designed oil pans also help with this problem on road race cars.

And I have been running a high flow 10296 for 35K now no problems.....

This is myth........
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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i say just spend the 100 on the one form lingenflter. great unit
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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i have a melling hv oil pump and have never had a problem the shop i go to uses them on most of they're builds so im gonna have to call bs on the oil pan sucking dry, if thats the case though you could always just add an oil cooler if you have an aftermarket radiator and that adds like another quart and a half or so. road racing often requires a baffled oil pan that holds more and keeps the oil from going to one side of the pan during hard cornering.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SOMbitch
I really doubt this. The Melling 10296 pumps 18% more than stock and I don't think porting a stocker will make it flow more than a 10296. And lots of respected builders use the 10296. HKE just put one in the build going in my car.....

There were some bearing failures in LS1 vettes that were road raced but it was from oil sloshing and exposing the pickup to air, not by pumping all the oil to the top of the motor.... One of the things that these guys started doing was running 20-w50 (Bondurant Driving School) that in theory stays up top longer and drains back into the pan slower.... Specially designed oil pans also help with this problem on road race cars.

And I have been running a high flow 10296 for 35K now no problems.....

This is myth........
well said
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Thanks for the info. Is it worth the money to just buy one or to do it myself? I don't think it would be that hard to do right?
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:30 PM
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I would just buy one. But if u think u can do it without doing something wrong go for it.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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Porting the oil pump isn't much more than removing the sharp edges in the pump housing. The stock oil pumps as well as the 10295 and 10296 Melling pumps all have these same edges in the inlet and outlet passages.

Be conservative about how much material you remove and avoid the area the o-ring seats and you should be fine.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 06:21 PM
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Try this link.http://www.andersonperformance.net/L...rting_v1.2.pdf
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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its not actually "porting" its more like "blending". you are cleaning and soften the edges and gives it a better smoother path for the oil to flow.
your not going to be opening up the area by much so it shouldnt oil starve anything or even get close to it
you also need to shim it when you in there if you are going to port(blend) yourself.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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I used the Melling M295 standard replacement pump. I got the piece of mind of a brand new oil pump while still maintaining the stock flow and psi rates, which IMO, are plenty adequate for a mildly modded engine.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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About the oil pump putting on all the oil on top that was pretty much of an old 350 thing. Not much on the ls1
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 05:05 PM
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I have a spare, so I'll give it a go, with before and after pics. Probably can't start on it until Monday.
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