flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I am gonna install my TFS 215s this week. I got the stock heads off & am cleaning eveything up. I see the new head bolts have sealer on the threads, are you guys oiling the head bolts before installing them? I looked in alldata & didnt see anything about oiling them. Is there a different torque spec for the TFS 215s compared to stock heads? Thanks guys, I did a search & couldnt find the info I was looking for.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

no, install them as dry as you can! You dont want anything to expand down in those holes.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

You also don't want the oil baking to the head bolts. I am assuming new stock heads are what you're using?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Install dry and as clean as possible. If you can get a air hose and blow out the hole before inserting any new head bolt. Sounds like your are using TQ to Yield stock stuff, IMO you should at least spend some $$$ for APR head bolts (not studs) but at least the bolt.

As for specs depends on which bolt you actually use. When I use NON TTY Bolts I always did a 3 step process and following the factory pattern and building up to the max. Then one final pass to double chk.

SSPerformance

iTrader: (76)

Install them dry. Stock new bolts will be fine as long as your not spraing it

corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

I would reccomend ARP Bolts with there assembly Lube.My mechanic put Engine oil on these bolts, then I had to remove bolts for another reason, the Bolts would not come out and broke in the Block. Long story short, had to spend $500.00 on a new ls1 block. I cant speak for stock bolts, but for the ARP Bolts they need the assembly Lube.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

No, Trickflows.


Damn, already bought stock GM head bolts from Scoggin Dickey but kinda wish I woulda got some ARPs now. I know about blowing all the junk out of the bolt holes but I gotta get one of those ARP thread chaser taps to clean the threads first.

SILVER 2288 SS

iTrader: (1)

why not head studs thats what i was gonna use on my head install

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I know you're using Trickflows, I was talking about the bolts... Sorry for the confusion.

Just use a grinder and taper the sides off of your old stock bolts. Worked perfect for me.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

Because studs are a PITA to deal with without removing the engine.

I might just get some ARP head bolts so if I wanna spray it later & sell the stock bolts I bought.
I am just gonna get the tap tool. The bottom bolts came out hard, they were making that snapping sound coming out.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

In the end either way you will be fine. I have myself always used ARP stuff so its more of a force of habit. Technically you can follow the GM, Helms, Chilton's manual as ALL those rebuild books use stock bolts in mind.

I do not have my book scanned but looking at a Cyl head. Left is front of Motor and Right is fire wall, there are 3 rows, the top is facing the valley plate, Middle row and the lower row that faces down to the motor mount.

The Sequence goes.

15, 13, 11, 12, 14

10, 3, 1, 5, 9

7, 6, 2, 4, 8

As per Chevy LS1/LS6 Perf Book

1st Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 22 ft lbs.

2nd Pass M11 bolts in Seq. 90 degrees

Final Pass M11 Bolts in seq, excluding Middle Length Bolts at the front and rear of each cyl head 90 deg.

Final Pass Med length M11 Bolts at fron and rear of cyl head 50 deg.

M8 Inner Bolts in Seq 22 ft lbs.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

Thanks, I have that info already, BUT if ARP bolts are used does this same torque spec apply? I found an article that was in GMHTP on an AFR heads install & they torqued the ARP head bolts to 75 ft lb.
Here is the writeup I found last night when doing a search. If you go down where they install the heads to the bottom left, they torque the head bolts to 75 ft lb.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...all/index.html

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

If you use ARP, follow that numbering sequence, but do 1-10 entirely before touching 11-15. Do 1-10 in (4) passes, 1st @ 25lb-ft, 2nd @ 50lb-ft, 3rd at 75lb-ft, and 4th to double check 75lb-ft. Then do the top ones @ 22lb-ft and double check 11-15 again @ 22lb-ft.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

ARP head bolts are the only bolts I use. I refuse to re-install heads with factory bolts anymore. Stock bolts are junk.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

As long as your giving a even clamping force down on the head your fine. You can stop but I only advise doing that once one of the passes is completely done as there is not force being applied to part of the head and not the other.

On my OLD LT1 I always did to 75 and I stepped it 25-50-75 following factory sequence.

speedracer5532

iTrader: (8)

You can pull the heads off with studs in the car no problems at all. I always recommend head studs.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I would agree but at the same time head studs tend to be for race cars that frequently remove the heads. Such as 8 and low 9 sec Nitrous cars.

The OP seems to be someone who will be doing this once. The motor may grenade well before needing to get back into the motor.

FireTA98

iTrader: (3)

^^^x1

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

Where do you come up with this? ARP bolts break also. All my stuff has stock bolts... making well over 800hp on them. My friends Turbo car we even reused the stock takeout ones ... its making close to 600. Overkilling stuff is kind of a waste... like putting a parachute on my stock tahoe . You also dont need any other bolts just because you spray... There is no logic in this thread.... sounds like a bunch of hear-say and spend a lot so you have a peice of mind.

Dont over tighten the stock ones and they wont break.

I love doing things with stock parts that a lot of people cant do with performance ones.....lol.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I would rather buy the ARPs & torque them to 75 ft lbs so I dont have to angle torque the stock bolts.