I have a thread on Performance Trucks about the same topic, but find a different audience here and would appreciate your input. I'm building a LQ4 to install in my truck. I'll have a Yank PT 3200 behind it and will be shifting no higher than 6,000-6,200. Yes, that's conservative, but that gives you and idea of what I'm building for. There are no plans to go bigger on the cam, or go to any kind of FI.

The shortblock is a 2004 with 85K miles. It does have the later model coated pistons and LS2 rods. I didn't plan on going through it entirely, but decided to, just to get it clean and fresh. I will be having the block hot tanked and honed. The piston and rods will cleaned as well. Do the pistons need to come off the rods for cleaning?

I bought a used 220/224 .581/.581 112 LSA custom ground Comp cam. I'm using 243 heads, milled .035", Pac 1218 springs, and blended bowls. Compression should be about 10.7:1 with GM MLS head gaskets. I'll be using LS7 lifters and a LS2 HD timing chain and gear set. Plans are for a Melling hi pressure/standard volume oil pump.

Probably a foolish question, but is it unheard of to reuse crank and rod bearings? I don't want to take a foolish short cut, but they honestly look like new. The cam bearings weren't as pretty and will definately be replaced. If the crank bearings are to be replaced, which ones should I go with?

Did they change the rings with the newer pistons, or do all LQ4s take the same ones? I figure I'll go OEM on these. Longevity and no oil consumption are my biggest concerns here.

What rod bolts should I go back together with? OEM, ARP, or what? I see ARP have a couple different sets to choose from, Pro or High Performance.

 

Here are the main bearings.








Rods

 

I would not skimp and definitely do bearings. It's insurance.

 

Like I suggested, it's probably a foolish question. I like to do things right, but the budget minded side can get in the way sometimes

 

Any recommendations on what cam, rod, and main bearings to go with? How about rings?

 

Any concern with Sealed Power plasma-moly piston rings? That's what my machine shop recommends. They also use Clevite bearings. Any reason to go with something else? I like the looks of thos FM 3/4 groove mains, but will it really make any difference?

 

To be honest, since you're already tearing into the motor, I would do a full build on it and go w/ a 408.
Use clevite bearings and ARP hardware.

 

For the build I'm doing here, is there any need for me to upgrade from GM rod bolts? I'm hoping for 400-425 HP and will not be spinning it over 6000-6200. GM bolts are $62 and no concerns with the rods needing resized. Katechs are $200. ARPs are only $90, but questionable on needing resized.

If I bought ARPs, could I simply bolt the caps on and check for out of round, or is there more to it than that?

I want to build smart, but don't want to throw money where it's not needed.

 

I would recommend doing the rod and main bearings. The reason those look so "new" is because they have been used. Bearings get that polished look because of being run in a motor for so long. If you buy a new set of bearings you will see that they look dirty because they haven't been run and had the chance to be "rubbing" on the crank. We use either Clevite or ACL bearings in our motors.

You could go back with ARP rod bolts if you want to but I don't see it as a requirement for this build. Seeing that you won't be spinning high RPM, the rod bolts would be less of a worry.

 

I've decided to go with Clevite P series rods and mains, GM head gaskets, GM and head bolts. My machine shop is polishing the crank and providing the bearings.

I'm still on the fence on the rods. Like you suggest, OEM would be fine, but for $30 I can go with ARP. But then there's the concern with distortion. What to do, lol. Yes, I can labor over the smallest details.

Any concerns with the Sealed Power plasma-moly rings? That's also what my machine shop recommends.

 

The first of the goodies has arrived Yank PT3200.

 

The sealed power rings would be fine. Its not like you are planning to make a ton of power on this motor from what I understand.

 

That is correct. I just want to make sure I don't have an oil burner when I'm done.

 

Since you are going back with mostly stock replacement stuff I wouldn't expect oil burning to be much of an issue as long as everything is set up correctly.

 

I'll be checking and rechecking everything as it goes together. It's easy to get in a rush sometimes, but certainly not worth it on a project like this.

 

Is it H-series thats better or P-series? Jegs web page is a little confusing.

 

I understand that Ps are for stock cranks, and Hs for race engines. I don't know what the actual differences are.

 

So what's a good guesstimate on HP for this build?

6.0 LQ4 shortblock
Milled 243 Heads for 11:1 Compression
Bowls blended and polished
220/224 .581/.581 112 LSA Cam
Pac 1218 Springs
TBSS Intake Manifold
Edelbrock 3864 90mm T-Body
Doug Thorley Tri-Y Headers
Gutted Cats
Flowmaster 50SUV Muffler - 3" In, 2x 2 1/2" Out
Airaid MIT Air Tube
Modified Air Box
Yank PT3200 Stall
4:30 Gears
33x12.50x17 Tires

 

Sounds like a nice build you have going - would love to see pictures as you go wiht the install

 

thats a badass converter i had the same one in my truck loved it