Is their a adjustable Jezel timing set that is that isn't for race only? Has anyone run one. Do you need to pull the UD pulley to do the adjustment. I spoke with Jay at Abusolute and he told me that the Comp set up you have to remove the crank pulley to do the adjustment.
And last who carries them.
I'll do a search and see what I can find

 

Jay is correct you have to take the timing cover off to make the adjustments on the Comp timing set (hex screw). I don't know about the Jezel set up.

 

Does anyone make a 2 piece timing cover for the ls1. I saw one for a small block chev.

 

I think Bret Bauer (see --->) said he built one, but that may have been a one off.

 

How tight would the seal have to bee if I modified a stock cover. I am waiting to install a ATI super damper with a H/C package. The cam is being ground with some advance in it. I wanted to be able to play with the advance without having to yank the pulley off

 

anyone

 

Hi,
I modify the stock front cover the first time I take it off so that I can change the cam timing without removing the cover using a Comp/Cloyes gear:

To modify the cover:
Drill a hole in the stock front cover big enough to fit a 10mm socket.
Place this hole on centerline and in front of one of the cam bolts when it is in the 12 o'clock position.
Cover this hole by gluing on a thin (~0.060”) aluminum or sheet metal plate using silicone.

To change the timing:
Remove the water pump
Cut the glue to remove the cover.
Loosen one cam bolt at a time as you rotate the engine.
Vette’s need to rotate the engine using a 15/16” offset box end wrench.
When the bolts are loose, adjust the timing using an Allen wrench.
Tighten the bolts & check the timing mark
Glue on the cover

Good lick,
Steve

 

Thanks Steve

 

I'll be danged! I bought the Comp/Cloyes because of reports of chain breakage. It turns out I have the Hex adjustable too! Here I have been planning on drilling the sprocket an making offset buttons ...

Great idea, the hole. Might be able to find a rubber plug even.

What about Comp's instructions to have no load on the cam when you adjust it?

 

"Might be able to find a rubber plug even."

There is very little room between the cover and the water pump. That is why I ended up with a thin plate glued on.

"What about Comp's instructions to have no load on the cam when you adjust it?"

After you get the cam bolts loose, you need to turn the crank as you hold some pressure on the adjustment hex. The hex is not strong enough to turn the cam.

Good luck,
Steve

 

They mean for you to losen all the rockers to take the spring presure off of the cam that way it moves freely and does not move on it's own. Due to the downward force put on the lobes by the springs ETC...

 

Ah. Mine is apart so I haven't looked. RTV works for me
Yeah, that is what the instructions said - the hex would split if loaded. You can't turn far with that small a hole ... do you rock the crank? Or does just a small movement of the crank suffice?

 

Yeah, I ain't that dumb. My question was how to avoid taking everything loose

 

So you need to take all the load off the cam before you can do any adjustment? That means pulling all the rockers off.

 

Outside of their belt drive I don't believe that Jesel offers any type of timing chain for the LS1.

 

Actually, it is possible to make a plate that attaches with screws, covering a hole big enough to get at all the bolts at once. You do need to replace one pump cover bolt with a countersunk one and trim a bit off the back plate on the pump. Here is the timing cover and water pump.