What can be expected from ported LS6 heads?
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What can be expected from ported LS6 heads?
Good Morning Gents,
I have been pondering this question for awhile now as I am attempting to get over the 4xx rwhp mark on a budget. I have a friend here in Eastern N.C. who can set me up with a reasonable deal on LS6 heads and LS6 cam. I do believe however there is a better cam that would be ideally suited to the flow characteristics of ported ls6's. If anybody has any input on what I can expect from heads alone right now on my full bolt-on car it would be appreciated.
I have been pondering this question for awhile now as I am attempting to get over the 4xx rwhp mark on a budget. I have a friend here in Eastern N.C. who can set me up with a reasonable deal on LS6 heads and LS6 cam. I do believe however there is a better cam that would be ideally suited to the flow characteristics of ported ls6's. If anybody has any input on what I can expect from heads alone right now on my full bolt-on car it would be appreciated.
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Good Morning Gents,
I have been pondering this question for awhile now as I am attempting to get over the 4xx rwhp mark on a budget. I have a friend here in Eastern N.C. who can set me up with a reasonable deal on LS6 heads and LS6 cam. I do believe however there is a better cam that would be ideally suited to the flow characteristics of ported ls6's. If anybody has any input on what I can expect from heads alone right now on my full bolt-on car it would be appreciated.
I have been pondering this question for awhile now as I am attempting to get over the 4xx rwhp mark on a budget. I have a friend here in Eastern N.C. who can set me up with a reasonable deal on LS6 heads and LS6 cam. I do believe however there is a better cam that would be ideally suited to the flow characteristics of ported ls6's. If anybody has any input on what I can expect from heads alone right now on my full bolt-on car it would be appreciated.
I'm the same mind set of you. I have 99 z28 that i going to built it in a budget set up this year because there is too much that i'm doing at the same time, new body paint , 8.8 rear end ,243 ported heads , MS3 ,42 lbs injectors ,high flow fuel pump, Roll Bars , Pro Satr weld racing and tires Hoosier Quick time pros and Nitrous 150-175 shoot .
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All depends on the port work. Ported heads can flow worse then stock. A proven CNC program or a hand porter with a damn good reputation is the only two ways to go about it IMO.
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As it sits now, my car made a tad over 340 rwhp through a 3200 yank converter, the car is maxed out bolt-on wise with the exception of a EWP. I was thinking a Cheatr cam or a custom grind can get me to my intended goal, but would like to keep the car as stealthy as possible to surprise some people, all while hitting mid-low 11's.
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I don't see a reason if I can make mid 400's on motor that I cannot hit mid 11's with a bit of weight reduction, but the giggle gas makes me think high 10's at the very least
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http://www.totalengineairflow.com/products/gmhead/gmls1/
or these guys>>>http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiProductsGMLS2.html
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@ SOMBITCH, would adding cats to the exhaust with the CheatR cam make the sound at least stock-like? Or would a custom grind be better suited to my needs? Stealth is the key aspect I'm going for and if somebody can detect I have more than external bolt-ons then my game has been lost.
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The cheatr cam is ideal for stock exhaust type setup not for full boltons with a stock type idle.
Personally i would call Geoff at EPS and have him grind you a 224/220 on 116 lsa. This cam will idle like stock and his lobes are superior to most so you wont have that sewing machine noise as much as you would have with other cams.
Look up the MTI stealth 2 camshaft, there are even some idle clips on youtube. Something along those lines would be perfect for you.
Personally i would call Geoff at EPS and have him grind you a 224/220 on 116 lsa. This cam will idle like stock and his lobes are superior to most so you wont have that sewing machine noise as much as you would have with other cams.
Look up the MTI stealth 2 camshaft, there are even some idle clips on youtube. Something along those lines would be perfect for you.
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oh and that cam along with the heads should make over 400rwhp, here is a link (i wouldnt quite expect that power though)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...22-7-rwhp.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...22-7-rwhp.html
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I had talked to tech support at Thunder Racing and they stated the CheatR would work well with full bolt ons or no mods whatsoever, the only difference is with exhaust the cam is much more noticeable. But if I can get a cam to sound stock with exhaust like the one you mentioned I may just have to look into it.
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A cam that will run "mid-low 11's" will have a fair amount of overlap so it will be noticeable. You can try to hide it with a stock exhaust but that will choke power to an extent. Just run no2 and be done with it then or get a cheatr and run some 12's
DJ you have a strong running car but stealthy it aint
DJ you have a strong running car but stealthy it aint