LQ9 build questions
LQ9 build questions Ok, I just picked up a used 2003 LQ9 from an escalade with 170K, high miles but I'm pulling it all apart anyways. I have a set of l92 heads, ls3 intake, and ls2 90mm tb that's going on it, the cts-v accessory drive, ls3 water pump, balancer, pac 1518 springs, manley pushrods, and cam from eps.
My question is what are the odds that I will be able to just re-ring the pistons and put new bearings in on this mileage. I know my old camaro with a v6 in it had 235k on it when I sold it and the engine was still fine.
I know I will know for sure here in a week when it shows up and I can pull the engine apart to look in the cylinders, but hopefully someone with prior experience can drop in with thier info.
My question is what are the odds that I will be able to just re-ring the pistons and put new bearings in on this mileage. I know my old camaro with a v6 in it had 235k on it when I sold it and the engine was still fine.
I know I will know for sure here in a week when it shows up and I can pull the engine apart to look in the cylinders, but hopefully someone with prior experience can drop in with thier info.
Last edited by devlmaycry; Feb 17, 2011 at 12:31 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
From: North Alabama
Mic' the bore if you have a dial-bore gauge man. Im looking into a salvage 6.0l engine also and I believe the LQ4-9 engines have a max allowable overbore of only .030. Soooo if it will hone clean at .010 or .020 your good or even .030 but if it requires over that your screwed. Maybe somebody else can clarify this if I'm wrong but just trying to help ya man. Let us knows some details on the build I'm interested. Good luck.
Last edited by GoatPilot87; Feb 17, 2011 at 08:06 PM. Reason: drunk typing...AKA mispelled word
Autozone shows sealed power doing rings upto .040 over so I'm guessing that we have some options. I'm not sure what I'm looking at yet, but I should know next week once the engine arrives. My question is my few other engine builds anytime I went over I had to do new pistons both were .020 though and I upgraded to forged. If I only got like .010 over do I still need pistons or is there such a thing as oversized rings for standard pistons?
Last edited by devlmaycry; Feb 17, 2011 at 08:32 PM.
After doing some more reading, I'm getting that people with well maintained engines are getting away with hones on stock pistons with new rings after ensuring bore round. So, fingers crossed there!
Ok, I guess my main concern is I don't have a dial-bore gauge so I'm at the mercy of the machine shop. So, I have my fingers crossed that the bore will come back within tolerances, but I'm not even sure what the tolerances are. I shouldn't have to break down the bearing caps, but I know I can do new bearings for about $120 but then rod bolts are another $100, then labor. Though I'm hoping to avoid a $1000+ "refresh." I figure if the pan is clean and the bore mics out ok. I should be good to go since I have no plans of forced induction or nitrous.
The engine is warranteed for 6mo for the internals, but I would rather not wait for something to break or to find out it's a smoker after I've stuffed it into my 240sx. If motor had like 120k I wouldn't even worry because I would probably sell it before it wore out.
The engine is warranteed for 6mo for the internals, but I would rather not wait for something to break or to find out it's a smoker after I've stuffed it into my 240sx. If motor had like 120k I wouldn't even worry because I would probably sell it before it wore out.
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Verdad Gallardo Depends on where you look and how much u want to get. I got mine for $1500 to my door complete from intake to pan with ecu and pedal. Some people are finding short blocks for $300-500. LQ4's are cheaper. 5.3's are less than 1k. I would have bought a lower mile one if I could have found one complete for what I wanted to spend.
Oh, also I needed it complete for my 240 swap.
Oh, also I needed it complete for my 240 swap.
Last edited by devlmaycry; Feb 21, 2011 at 08:30 PM.
I picked my lq9 up for $775 (oil pan to intake) and shipped was $950 total. It has 200,000 miles, but the compression and oil pressure numbers a great. At least that is what was posted on the auction page. The place seems to be honest, they have a few thousand ratings and all of the negative ratings I read (not many) were minor and fixable with communication.
On car-parts.com the lq9 is 500 (crap, engine fire) up to $5,000(lol). Local yards wanted average 1,700 up to about 3,000 for all type of mileage lq9's.
On car-parts.com the lq9 is 500 (crap, engine fire) up to $5,000(lol). Local yards wanted average 1,700 up to about 3,000 for all type of mileage lq9's.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
I picked up a 120k LQ4 about two years ago for $400 - long block.
I did a similar build up. When I switched to the L92 heads I had to fly cut the pistons (those valves are pretty big). So depending on cam etc...you might consider just getting new pistons. And if your doing that, then you might as well bore it out. And if your doing all that anyways, might as well stroke it too.
I did a similar build up. When I switched to the L92 heads I had to fly cut the pistons (those valves are pretty big). So depending on cam etc...you might consider just getting new pistons. And if your doing that, then you might as well bore it out. And if your doing all that anyways, might as well stroke it too.
Ok, I guess my main concern is I don't have a dial-bore gauge so I'm at the mercy of the machine shop. So, I have my fingers crossed that the bore will come back within tolerances, but I'm not even sure what the tolerances are. I shouldn't have to break down the bearing caps, but I know I can do new bearings for about $120 but then rod bolts are another $100, then labor. Though I'm hoping to avoid a $1000+ "refresh." I figure if the pan is clean and the bore mics out ok. I should be good to go since I have no plans of forced induction or nitrous.
The engine is warranteed for 6mo for the internals, but I would rather not wait for something to break or to find out it's a smoker after I've stuffed it into my 240sx. If motor had like 120k I wouldn't even worry because I would probably sell it before it wore out.
The engine is warranteed for 6mo for the internals, but I would rather not wait for something to break or to find out it's a smoker after I've stuffed it into my 240sx. If motor had like 120k I wouldn't even worry because I would probably sell it before it wore out.
I just started pulling apart my 2004 LQ9 200,000 miles. It actually looks great for all the miles. All of the bearing have good surfaces, no ridge on the cylinder walls. I am curious to what his machine shop says.
Ok, long time no post! I pulled the heads off and looked at the cylinder walls they look good there's no ridge at the top and you can still see remnants of the factory hone. The engine was little dirty, but nothing I didn't expect for the miles. I talked to a shop in town and I'm going to be dropping the engine off here next week I think to have them check it out and let me know what needs done. I want to do at least bearings and rings if it can be done without going over sized. They will also be cleaning and checking out my 12k l92 heads and putting my pac 1518 springs on.
Here's my car's build thread in the hybrids section: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post14567531
Here's my car's build thread in the hybrids section: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post14567531
Just talked to the shop, and I'm hoping to have it to them next week. They said it should be around $700 to dissasemble and clean the block, hone the cylinders, clean the heads and install springs and valve seals, polish the crank, and assemble the short block and torque the heads. So a couple hundred more than what I wanted to spend, but not too bad. The last thing I want to do with this build is have it die on me after getting it shoehorned into my 240 and have to pull it again.
Why dont you disassemble it on your own and save some $. I pulled mine part and number the bearings and rods, keeping them together for inspection. Mine is bare and ready to go to the shop. I also thought about cleaning some of the rust off the outside to save on some shop time.
i wanted to post this to give you peace of mind, i work at lkq and we got in a 00 Silvy 2500 with an LQ4 that had 202K miles, engine had a fire at the intake so they pulled the heads off and i took interest since im doin my 5.3 swap.... you wouldnt believe it but the cylinder walls still had cross hatching like it just came outta the factory. top end was completely stock and untouched and from the dirt and grime on it, we determined it to be untouched since new.
The 2004 LQ9 I just got had 201,000 miles and the same. Everything looks awsome. One guy was telling to put my heads and intake on it and go, but I insisted on a bore, hone and bearings. The bearing surfaces look great. There were no ridges and you can still see the cross hatching. The compression was around 210.
Yeah, I am very impressed with all of the people with good stories with these engines. I'm doing new rings and bearings, because of the work involved with my car. If it was a stock build for my 81 P/U short wide bed with 12 bolt (that build with a 5.3 is next) I wouldn't worry since I can stand in the engine compartment and work lol. I'm so glad that I'm going v8 with my nissan now. Thumbs up to ls1tech and all the good feedback you guys are giving me!
