O2Form

I told you what to do THREE DAYS AGO..........

remauto1187

iTrader: (1)

Just because you have fuel at the fuel rail does not mean it is at the correct pressure. Do a pressure check at the fuel rail and see if it meets specs.

I still would not rule out a ignition sytem/ecm/vats issue as of yet.

You need to get it to do a total no start condition and see what is missing....... spark, air, fuel (at the correct pressure). One of them is missing to keep the engine from running correctly. Troubleshoot it from there once you determine for sure which one is missing.

But the fact that you put a rag soaked with gas in the TB doesn't really tell you anything for sure.... Did the engine die because it ran out of fuel OR did it die because of loss of ignition/fuel and the loss of ingition could be vats, ECM and the list goes on and on.

mikemunoz

do u mean check for fuel pressure?

edwardzracing

iTrader: (59)

Okay, so it has a good pump... it primes, but obviously something is going on after it starts. Just because it poors out gas doesn't mean it has proper fuel pressure while running. Seriously, it takes a few bucks and a trip to the nearest auto parts store to RENT a fuel pressure gauge. If you're not willing to try easy stuff like this to diagnose a possible fuel problem, then you're going to drive yourself crazy trying to get it fixed. Until we know you're getting proper fuel pressure, it's going to be hard for any of us to guess what could be wrong because at this point we still can't rule out fuel as the problem. Sorry man. Keep us posted on anything else that you find out. Good luck.

O2Form

You need to check spark and fuel injector pulse. Its obvious the engine fires but doesn't stay running. SOOOO you must have spark but are the injectors pulsing? 1st thing is swap the ignition relay with the starter relay and try starting it< long shot> next pull both fuel injection fuses and check them. Next spin the engine and check for spark, pull one of the plug wires off and use a old plug held agaisnt grd. If it sparks ok while the engine doesn't start you need to check for fuel pressure and if the injectors are coming on. Go buy a noid light and check it. after this you will have some idea what direction to go. Good Luck

mikemunoz

Well connected a fuel pressure gauge and read 60 psi. So its not a fuel pressure issue. Ran a coil to wire to plug and ground it, turned the key and had spark on both sides, so its not a spark issue. Got a noid light and tested all the fuses and they all got power, not that ether. So i only and 2 ideas it can be needs a tune orrrrrrrr needs a new computer. But any other ideas of what it can be are more than welcome anything helps.

O2Form

Are the injectors firing or do you just have power to them?

O2Form

I woooood check compression next. Not sure all that you changed in the engine but you may have a valve or cam timing problem. Valves hanging open etc..

f1ctionZ28

My dad had a similar problem like this because the car was not connected to the battery for a while and it turned out to be the computer.

mikemunoz

when u say cam timing do u mean that its not dot to dot ( not lined up right) as for valve hanging open haw does that happen?

mikemunoz

well got the car to finally turn on and run, it was just the tune. drove it around the block was going to park it in revers and it just turned off on me and it does the same now (turn on and right off). some codes came out code (p0102-MAF or VAF a circuit Low input) and code (p1635- Manufacturer control Auxiliary Inputs Auxiliary Outputs) what causes these code to come out any one help me out.................

Chevy Guy

iTrader: (2)

Get the tuner back on the horn, see what he says.

mikemunoz

check the gas and it lookes like tea all dark. Changed it out and clead the injectors. Put it all back to gether and it does the same thing just turns on and right back off just like in the viedos, but it smells alot like gas (very strong) nothing is leaking or anything like that. Can it be the tune. it was running on a speed density tune and now its on a regular tune. MAF is good all wire and grounds are good. No vacuum leaks. Any ideas

edwardzracing

iTrader: (59)

Just out of curiosity, this isn't the same motor that you're talking about in this thread is it?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ics-added.html

I never saw a post that stated you took the motor to another shop, but if you didn't... uh oh.

If this isn't the same motor, or it is and you got that mess straightened out... I'd speak with the tuner again. If he was able to get it running once, he should be able to get it straightened out again. Sorry you're having so much trouble. Keep us updated on what you find.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Mine was doing the exact same thing during my 408 swap. Crankshaft position sensor. If it doesn't work, return it. I fired it up the first time, and it ran normal. The next day I went to fire it up again and crank, start, die, repeatedly. My buddy suggested crankshaft position sensor and it fired right up. Now, my CPS didn't get hit or knocked or damaged in anything I did so don't rule it out thinking you never touched it.

Also, if this is a fresh SB rebuild, I wouldn't continue cranking with all that fuel running down the cylinder walls....