y-man

Are the holes for the top row of the larger head bolts suppose to have bottoms? I mistakenly torqued the studs into the block to 65ft-lbs instead of hand tight like I was suppose to. When I removed the studs and meassured the depth of all the large holes, I noticed that while the bottom row holes all had bottoms to them, the top row holes went through the block (except the short ones). Have I seriously damaged my block now? If so, can I put some high temp RTV on the bottom of the top row studs to seal it up? Is there another way to repair the damage?

thanks
matt

Smoke T/A

Sounds like you broke through. I would get a teliscoping light and confirm. I however don't know if it can be fixed. If they are indeed busted through you will leak coolant directly in to the bottom end.

Joe

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Couldn't you use teflon thread sealant (like Permatex PST)? Old school SBC's have bolt holes that went through to water... I used PST on my LT1 head bolts...

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

How would the coolant get from the dry head bolt threads to the bottom end?

Scott Turvey

If all he did was go straight through the bottom of the bolt-hole, it wouldn't. If, however, it cracked the sides of the shaft the bolt passes through (as it broke through the bottom), then you could get coolant seeping into the bottom end. The side of the bolt-hole casting is surrounded by coolant.

Short of pulling the motor and having the block tore down for inspection, all I can think of would be to;
1. "fix" the bolt-hole ends with some sort of sealant, allowing for a full-cure per whatever the stuff you use says.
2. pressurize the coolant system with a pressure checker and see if you're bleeding pressure. watch the bolt-holes for coolant.
3. check the engine oil for coolant. it's more likely to have coolant in the oil than the other way around.

Since a positive finding on #2 or #3 means you're hosed anyway and have to pull the motor, it's not going to hurt to try it.

Personally, I would pull the motor anyway as you'll never know how good a repair you've have or don't have until you pull the motor down at some point. Or, it goes boom with coolant/oil shooting out it's nose.

y-man

Thanks guys for the input. From your responses, I'm assuming there should be a bottom to the hole. :-)

I'm planning this weekend on doing a more thorough inspection and possibly the pressure test suggested. If the crack has spread into the coolant jackets, what is the best way to repair this? Will not having the bottom to the holes reduce the strength of the studs and their clamping force on the heads? I'm concerned since the heads will be under more than normal force since this is for a FI application.

Thanks again
Matt

BOO HOO BRIAN

iTrader: (-10)

y-man....if you broke through , i dont think there is any way to reapair it. One possibly , but not all of them.

I hope that it pressure checks fine. Good luck.

y-man

Well-
I got my motor out this weekend and started taking it apart to examine the damage. As soon as I took the oil pan off, a couple big chunks of cast Al fell out. That was my first bad sign. :-( It looks like the holes broke through the bottom and not into the water jackets at least. I did find that two of the Lower M-11 bolt holes had broken out the side of the block. It appeared to be lower than the threads, but I wonder what that does to the strength of the block? I can probably clean up the ones that broke through the block, but do I risk rebuilding the motor and then having the block fail? This will be for a forced induction application. Any thoughts?

Pictures are available at below under "Head Stud Disaster":
http://photos.yahoo.com/myetzer@flash.net

Has anyone used Helicoils in the stud holes to anchor the studs better to the block? Is there a reason they aren't used more often?

Thanks
Matt

blk~2000~Z28

Is there a write-up for the install of studs? I would like to do them when I do my H/C but I would want a walk through (I know it sounds picky). Anyone?
Thanks

Slowverado

if you broke through the block, it's junk, get another one, bore it to the max, forge the internals, and run more FI than you were going to before. simple fix.

Shinobi'sZ

Dude........that really REALLY SUCKS......I feel bad for you man. Time to rebuild the engine.

ROGERSPERF.

If top fuel guys can blow a side out of the block and fix it i,am sure someone that can weld good can fix that.




mike

Shinobi'sZ

I am sure....

sure also that you can pick up a 2001+ LS1 Block for $600-800 or a 6 liter Iron Block for $400-600.
For the money it would take to repair that block I would junk it and get a BRAND NEW one. JMO.

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

Thats pretty crazy! It may not be worth fixing, you can pick up a good block in the $500-600 range.

Slowverado

y-man....if you decide to upgrade, i have a 6.0 sittin in the shopw for a good price...

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Y-man let me know if you want to get rid of that block I think I may have a use for it!
I still think I can repair it if you decide to get another block ETC...
Jeff

y-man

Inspector12-
Would you want the block itself or the block with internals? I think it's repairable too, but not if I'm thinking of running 12# of boost on it. Send me a PM and we can discuss.

Matt

y-man

Slowverado-
Send me the details about that 6.0. New/Used, what's inside etc. I'm thinking I'll be ordering my new motor this coming week. BTW, where is your shop? I'm up in the Saginaw area too.

Matt