LS1 to LQ4...what all is needed?
07-31-2011, 04:34 PM
#1
LS1 to LQ4...what all is needed? I have a 98 SS with a 89k mile LS1 in it.
I want to swap in a 5.3, 6.0 or LS2 if I can get a good enough deal.
I haven't decided yet if I am going to put forged rods and pistons in whatever I get, or just re-gap the rings and hone the cylinders and have new bearings installed.
I a going to put 317's on it with my current comp 918's, chromoly pushrods, LS7 Lifters, and 227/224 114lsa cam. I may put new springs and lifters in, will decide when the time comes.
This will have my PTE76GTS huffing through this motor also. I'd like to have my intake and TB P&P and add new fuel rails and adding a bigger feed and using my old feed as the return and moving my inline walboro 255 to my fuel tank with my other 255 and put it on a hobbs switch. I hope these fuel mods and my current mototron 60# injectors that I can hit 800+rwhp with race gas and 675-700 on 93. I'd add a Eboost2 to allow a high/low boost setting.
My question is, aside from the motor, heads, and front and rear covers what all do I need?
Can I mount my F-body accessories on any of these motors with the f-body brackets? What do I need in the way of making the accessories work and keeping all the accessories where there are now(stock locations including a/c).
I know I will also need head gasket, intake manifold gaskets, oil pan gaskets, timing cover gaskets, rear main seal, and I am forgetting a lot more too I'm sure.
Do the LS3/L76 intakes flow better than the LS6 intakes? If I go with a LY6 or LQ4 and they indeed flow better I may look to trade mine, or if it's going to be minimal or the same I'll keep my LS6 intake and have my TB ported at the least.
I know I will also have to have the car re-tuned once it's done, but it should be able to start up at least correct? I know it will be lean due to added displacement, but if I stay out of boost I should be able to get it to PCM4Less which isn't far from me.
I am also going to change to SD and add a 3 bar map sensor while I am at it. Another question here would it be easier or better to get the computer from whatever motor I get, or finding a 99+ F-body PCM...? I could also get Frost to put a base tune in whatever PCM I went with while I am getting the motor ready and then pop it in whenever I'm ready to fire.
I know this is a lot, but this is what I have come up with so far. Let me know if you guys think anything needs tweaking or revising to what you would do, or what would be the best way to do it.
I want to swap in a 5.3, 6.0 or LS2 if I can get a good enough deal.
I haven't decided yet if I am going to put forged rods and pistons in whatever I get, or just re-gap the rings and hone the cylinders and have new bearings installed.
I a going to put 317's on it with my current comp 918's, chromoly pushrods, LS7 Lifters, and 227/224 114lsa cam. I may put new springs and lifters in, will decide when the time comes.
This will have my PTE76GTS huffing through this motor also. I'd like to have my intake and TB P&P and add new fuel rails and adding a bigger feed and using my old feed as the return and moving my inline walboro 255 to my fuel tank with my other 255 and put it on a hobbs switch. I hope these fuel mods and my current mototron 60# injectors that I can hit 800+rwhp with race gas and 675-700 on 93. I'd add a Eboost2 to allow a high/low boost setting.
My question is, aside from the motor, heads, and front and rear covers what all do I need?
Can I mount my F-body accessories on any of these motors with the f-body brackets? What do I need in the way of making the accessories work and keeping all the accessories where there are now(stock locations including a/c).
I know I will also need head gasket, intake manifold gaskets, oil pan gaskets, timing cover gaskets, rear main seal, and I am forgetting a lot more too I'm sure.
Do the LS3/L76 intakes flow better than the LS6 intakes? If I go with a LY6 or LQ4 and they indeed flow better I may look to trade mine, or if it's going to be minimal or the same I'll keep my LS6 intake and have my TB ported at the least.
I know I will also have to have the car re-tuned once it's done, but it should be able to start up at least correct? I know it will be lean due to added displacement, but if I stay out of boost I should be able to get it to PCM4Less which isn't far from me.
I am also going to change to SD and add a 3 bar map sensor while I am at it. Another question here would it be easier or better to get the computer from whatever motor I get, or finding a 99+ F-body PCM...? I could also get Frost to put a base tune in whatever PCM I went with while I am getting the motor ready and then pop it in whenever I'm ready to fire.
I know this is a lot, but this is what I have come up with so far. Let me know if you guys think anything needs tweaking or revising to what you would do, or what would be the best way to do it.
08-01-2011, 09:42 AM
#2
Nothing? I guess I need to do more searching. All I had come up with that I needed was what's in my list. I honestly don't think I need anything else, as I'm pretty sure the f-body brackets will bolt up to the truck block and allow use of the f-body accessories.
Only thing that had me worried was I have seen some people with lQ4's and they had their alternator mounted up high and on the passenger side, like with truck brackets and accessories not f-body.
Will I need a LS2 waterpump or will a LS1 water pump work?
Only thing that had me worried was I have seen some people with lQ4's and they had their alternator mounted up high and on the passenger side, like with truck brackets and accessories not f-body.
Will I need a LS2 waterpump or will a LS1 water pump work?
08-01-2011, 10:41 AM
#3
Why would you swap in a 5.3? Imo that would be a downgrade of your ls1. If your going to run 317 heads you cannot use the ls3/l76 intake because it is made for the ls3 style square port heads. Your best bet then would be a FAST or ls6. To swap in the ls2 you would likely on need a cam extension harness and knock sensor extension harness because they are located differently on the ls2. If you get a late model ls2 or ls3 engine you would also need a 58xto 24x converter box from lingenfelter. Later engines came with a different reluctor wheel on the crank (58x) and the ls1 computer requires a 24x signal no matter what engine you choose keep the ls1 pcm and just have it tuned to your engine. Oh and also yes all the accessories off your ls1 will bolt up to any ls or lq block.
08-01-2011, 03:14 PM
#5
I can tell about an LQ4/9 swap. Not sure about the other motors.
All your F-body accessories will change right over. You will need to decide if you want to drill and tap the LQ block for the third alternator bolt or not...some people do this, and some don't. I didn't, and have been running like that with only two bolts for months with no issues. All the accessories bolt right up in the stock location just like on the LS1.
Your wiring harness, computer, and all sensors will work on the LQ motor. If you get a newer than '05 LQ motor, the reluctor wheel may be the wrong tooth...you need a 24t. All the older LQ motors have this already. The only other thing you will need to procure is an LS oil pickup tube, windage tray, and oil pan.
It is, quite literally, and drop and bolt in swap. Fits like it grew there.
All your F-body accessories will change right over. You will need to decide if you want to drill and tap the LQ block for the third alternator bolt or not...some people do this, and some don't. I didn't, and have been running like that with only two bolts for months with no issues. All the accessories bolt right up in the stock location just like on the LS1.
Your wiring harness, computer, and all sensors will work on the LQ motor. If you get a newer than '05 LQ motor, the reluctor wheel may be the wrong tooth...you need a 24t. All the older LQ motors have this already. The only other thing you will need to procure is an LS oil pickup tube, windage tray, and oil pan.
It is, quite literally, and drop and bolt in swap. Fits like it grew there.
08-01-2011, 04:54 PM
#6
Why would you swap in a 5.3? Imo that would be a downgrade of your ls1. If your going to run 317 heads you cannot use the ls3/l76 intake because it is made for the ls3 style square port heads. Your best bet then would be a FAST or ls6. To swap in the ls2 you would likely on need a cam extension harness and knock sensor extension harness because they are located differently on the ls2. If you get a late model ls2 or ls3 engine you would also need a 58xto 24x converter box from lingenfelter. Later engines came with a different reluctor wheel on the crank (58x) and the ls1 computer requires a 24x signal no matter what engine you choose keep the ls1 pcm and just have it tuned to your engine. Oh and also yes all the accessories off your ls1 will bolt up to any ls or lq block.
I had a brain fart, duh 317 heads are cathedral port heads.
I am going to forgo the LS2 or 05 and newer 6.0 just for ease of drop in and go.
Good to know about the accesories.
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08-01-2011, 05:00 PM
#8
I can tell about an LQ4/9 swap. Not sure about the other motors.
All your F-body accessories will change right over. You will need to decide if you want to drill and tap the LQ block for the third alternator bolt or not...some people do this, and some don't. I didn't, and have been running like that with only two bolts for months with no issues. All the accessories bolt right up in the stock location just like on the LS1.
Your wiring harness, computer, and all sensors will work on the LQ motor. If you get a newer than '05 LQ motor, the reluctor wheel may be the wrong tooth...you need a 24t. All the older LQ motors have this already. The only other thing you will need to procure is an LS oil pickup tube, windage tray, and oil pan.
It is, quite literally, and drop and bolt in swap. Fits like it grew there.
All your F-body accessories will change right over. You will need to decide if you want to drill and tap the LQ block for the third alternator bolt or not...some people do this, and some don't. I didn't, and have been running like that with only two bolts for months with no issues. All the accessories bolt right up in the stock location just like on the LS1.
Your wiring harness, computer, and all sensors will work on the LQ motor. If you get a newer than '05 LQ motor, the reluctor wheel may be the wrong tooth...you need a 24t. All the older LQ motors have this already. The only other thing you will need to procure is an LS oil pickup tube, windage tray, and oil pan.
It is, quite literally, and drop and bolt in swap. Fits like it grew there.
Knowing the accessories work is really spurring me on to do this soon since it is so easy. Main thing I was worried about was losing my a/c due to something not being right. I have heard that the pulley on the crank sticks out further on the truck blocks, I have a good 1-2" if not more clearance between my turbo and crank pulley...will that be enough room with the truck snout?
I'm guessing my LS1 F-body oil pickup tube, windage tray and oil pan will all swap over too correct?
Boy this sounds so easy that I will have plenty of money for a forged rotating assembly, or just get a low mileage long block with no accessories and do a hone, new bearings and re-gap the rings for boost.
I think I am going to try and pick up a computer along with the motor I get because I have the crappy 98 pcm still. I want to change to SD and use a 2 or 2.5 bar MAP sensor so I need a 99+ newer PCM. I'm guessing I can use the truck computer in my car since I have a manual VB auto tranny no abs, and no traction control and my speedo get's its signal from the rear abs sensor.
08-01-2011, 05:24 PM
#9
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If you use the LS1 F-Body front accessories you will also need to use the F-Body balancer/pulley. The truck pulley won't line up with the F-Body accessories. The balancer is a direct swap, the crank snouts are the same.
08-01-2011, 05:32 PM
#10
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LS1 oil pan, pickup will swap. The windage tray will swap if you the stock stroke. If you go longer stroke it may need to be modified, but I'm not sure. 99 LS1 up PCM has different pinout than the '98, not very hard to change. Plenty of info on this forum.
08-01-2011, 08:44 PM
#11
Sounds like a good weekend project for me and a couple buddies!
I am going to keep the stock stroke and use my oil pan, pickup and windage tray. I've also got a Melling H/V oil pump i'll swap over too. I'm gonna put a electric water pump on there while I am at it, new fuel rails and run a new feed line for my fuel and convert the old feed to return. I guess I'll need to modify the fuel hat to accomodate both fuel pumps in tank and get that hobbs switch.
The most I'm going to do internally is put forged rods/pistons in it. Stock crank, new bearings and if I forge it I will go 370. If I don't forge it I will just have it honed, re gap the rings and have the heads p&p with a valve job.
I just hope I hit my 830+ rwhp goal on 110 at 18psi and 650rwhp on 93 and 13psi.
08-02-2011, 02:05 AM
#14
Just to clarify, ALL LQ4's have a 24x reluctor. I don't believe the same can be said for LQ9's. My LQ4 is an '07 (last year of production) and it's an 24x reluctor. And tap for the alternator bolt while you got the engine out. I almost didn't do it cause I didn't think it would be worth the time. Finally decided to do it and took me a whole 30 min to do.
08-03-2011, 05:51 PM
#15
Are the newer LQ4's better? Heads better? Pistons? Rod? Crank? I've decided I'm just doing a hone, new coated bearings, and re gapping the rings with a good ring package. The money I save by not spending the money on forged pistons and rods I am going to put into a valve job and putting new rails and feed for my fuel system and buying a hobbs switch and dual pump fuel hat for my fuel pumps in tank.
I hope all this with my 76GTS and 60# Motron injectors and dual 255's get me to 800+rwhp on straight 110 and 100%meth and 18 psi. Hopefully I hit 650-700rwhp on 93 and meth with 13 psi.
I hope all this with my 76GTS and 60# Motron injectors and dual 255's get me to 800+rwhp on straight 110 and 100%meth and 18 psi. Hopefully I hit 650-700rwhp on 93 and meth with 13 psi.
10-05-2019, 01:39 AM
#16
Are the newer LQ4's better? Heads better? Pistons? Rod? Crank? I've decided I'm just doing a hone, new coated bearings, and re gapping the rings with a good ring package. The money I save by not spending the money on forged pistons and rods I am going to put into a valve job and putting new rails and feed for my fuel system and buying a hobbs switch and dual pump fuel hat for my fuel pumps in tank.
I hope all this with my 76GTS and 60# Motron injectors and dual 255's get me to 800+rwhp on straight 110 and 100%meth and 18 psi. Hopefully I hit 650-700rwhp on 93 and meth with 13 psi.
I hope all this with my 76GTS and 60# Motron injectors and dual 255's get me to 800+rwhp on straight 110 and 100%meth and 18 psi. Hopefully I hit 650-700rwhp on 93 and meth with 13 psi.
