Why is my car so slow???
08-27-2011 | 01:47 PM
#22
The 4K stall is fine. The gear is fine.
Something is wrong. The first thing I'd do is a compression and leak down test. This will confirm that the motor is tight. If all goes well there, I'd get someone who's competent at scanning/diagnostic and start checking your sensors. Make sure the MAF is clean and functioning properly, 02's are switching like they should (although they zero out at WOT), check for misfires, etc. Also make sure your trans is shifting at the correct RPM. A stock A4 LS1 should be shifting around 5900-6100.
You don't need "this and that" parts. You need to diagnose a problem that's happening. Not band aid it with more parts.
Something is wrong. The first thing I'd do is a compression and leak down test. This will confirm that the motor is tight. If all goes well there, I'd get someone who's competent at scanning/diagnostic and start checking your sensors. Make sure the MAF is clean and functioning properly, 02's are switching like they should (although they zero out at WOT), check for misfires, etc. Also make sure your trans is shifting at the correct RPM. A stock A4 LS1 should be shifting around 5900-6100.
You don't need "this and that" parts. You need to diagnose a problem that's happening. Not band aid it with more parts.
it does have a slight miss i think despite the new plugs and wires but it may just be motor mounts getting weak..cant really call it just yet.....
08-27-2011 | 02:07 PM
#23
The 4K stall is fine. The gear is fine.
Something is wrong. The first thing I'd do is a compression and leak down test. This will confirm that the motor is tight. If all goes well there, I'd get someone who's competent at scanning/diagnostic and start checking your sensors. Make sure the MAF is clean and functioning properly, 02's are switching like they should (although they zero out at WOT), check for misfires, etc. Also make sure your trans is shifting at the correct RPM. A stock A4 LS1 should be shifting around 5900-6100.
You don't need "this and that" parts. You need to diagnose a problem that's happening. Not band aid it with more parts.
Something is wrong. The first thing I'd do is a compression and leak down test. This will confirm that the motor is tight. If all goes well there, I'd get someone who's competent at scanning/diagnostic and start checking your sensors. Make sure the MAF is clean and functioning properly, 02's are switching like they should (although they zero out at WOT), check for misfires, etc. Also make sure your trans is shifting at the correct RPM. A stock A4 LS1 should be shifting around 5900-6100.
You don't need "this and that" parts. You need to diagnose a problem that's happening. Not band aid it with more parts.
08-27-2011 | 02:14 PM
#24
You say it feels strong, but I can't help but notice the 2.0 60ft then I see the trap speed. Something is definately off. Like previously mentioned you need to check your fp and compression along with just routine maintanence. You did your plugs and wires, but what about the fuel filter?
08-27-2011 | 02:23 PM
#26
12 Second Club
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From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
The 4K stall is fine. The gear is fine.
Something is wrong. The first thing I'd do is a compression and leak down test. This will confirm that the motor is tight. If all goes well there, I'd get someone who's competent at scanning/diagnostic and start checking your sensors. Make sure the MAF is clean and functioning properly, 02's are switching like they should (although they zero out at WOT), check for misfires, etc. Also make sure your trans is shifting at the correct RPM. A stock A4 LS1 should be shifting around 5900-6100.
You don't need "this and that" parts. You need to diagnose a problem that's happening. Not band aid it with more parts.
Something is wrong. The first thing I'd do is a compression and leak down test. This will confirm that the motor is tight. If all goes well there, I'd get someone who's competent at scanning/diagnostic and start checking your sensors. Make sure the MAF is clean and functioning properly, 02's are switching like they should (although they zero out at WOT), check for misfires, etc. Also make sure your trans is shifting at the correct RPM. A stock A4 LS1 should be shifting around 5900-6100.
You don't need "this and that" parts. You need to diagnose a problem that's happening. Not band aid it with more parts.
The easiest check is pull the MAF. If it has oil on it (a bad PCV can cause this), then it will murder your power. Fuel filters are stupid easy to change too. Hell, plugs and wires can be done in 90 minutes without breaking a sweat. If that doesn't seem to solve the prob, then follow Damians advice and get her looked at more thoroughally (complression tested/scanned).
08-27-2011 | 02:31 PM
#27
No, and no 
Sorry, but it is not necessarily desirable get a converter that stalls to your peak torque rpm...A 4k is not optimal for a stock cam.
OP, you have something wrong with your car. It is down on power. I personally would start with the simple stuff first-plugs, wires, filters, then check fuel psi, compression and leakdown.
Sorry, but it is not necessarily desirable get a converter that stalls to your peak torque rpm...A 4k is not optimal for a stock cam.
OP, you have something wrong with your car. It is down on power. I personally would start with the simple stuff first-plugs, wires, filters, then check fuel psi, compression and leakdown.
08-27-2011 | 03:21 PM
#28
well after several of you mentioning the maf...i checked the maf....and this is what it looked like.....caked up to the fullest....smh........
went and bought some maf cleaning spray and got her shined up,unhooked the battery...hopefully when i get back later and try her out, all will be well.......fingers crossed
went and bought some maf cleaning spray and got her shined up,unhooked the battery...hopefully when i get back later and try her out, all will be well.......fingers crossed
08-27-2011 | 03:23 PM
#29
got a few questions..does a dirty maf cause you to run rich or lean or neither? and about how much power could have been missing out on because of this?
now even if this isnt my issue right now...its still good maintenance...but im hopin this is it.
now even if this isnt my issue right now...its still good maintenance...but im hopin this is it.
08-27-2011 | 03:29 PM
#30
a dirty MAF could result in either condition but most likely the air wont cool the heating element as well so it would think there is less air going into the engine thus less fuel added resulting in a rich condition. but the MAF is the computers #1 resource for caculating how much fuel to add, if its not working right all hell breaks loose, and be careful with MAF cleaner I know it says its safe but its not, make sure its super dry before you ever plug it in
08-27-2011 | 05:58 PM
#31
I ran consistent 12 flats and was knocking on the door into 11's lifting the front left wheel off the ground with just headers, exhaust, 4400 stall, 4.56 gears, and et streets with no tune. I got my best feeling 60' of the day and burnt my 3-4 clutch pack. I would try and get the car on a dyno to see what kind of power you are making. With that kind of a timeslip I would guess you have a slipping transmission or other engine problems.
08-27-2011 | 06:02 PM
#32
wen i first got the car,it had already been tuned but it was awful and i knew wasnt right.so i had a friend at the dealership flash it back stock with the tech 2 and it was way better.so i did my few mods and sent the pcm to frost...and now its way faster but evidently not fast enough lol.
it does have a slight miss i think despite the new plugs and wires but it may just be motor mounts getting weak..cant really call it just yet.....
it does have a slight miss i think despite the new plugs and wires but it may just be motor mounts getting weak..cant really call it just yet.....
08-27-2011 | 07:55 PM
#34
There's one simple thing I haven't seen mentioned. Have somebody mat
the pedal (or use a cinder block) while you go and look at the throttle
blade position. It had better be dead center in the opening. But I've
seen cars which, stock, only opened 75%.
the pedal (or use a cinder block) while you go and look at the throttle
blade position. It had better be dead center in the opening. But I've
seen cars which, stock, only opened 75%.
08-27-2011 | 08:20 PM
#35
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
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What is your oil consumption like? Do you have a catch can or a relief breather on the valve covers? Do you notice any detonation?
When I first bought my car (10 years old) I consumed about a quart every 1500 miles. I had to blend in 3 gallons of race gas with every tank or I would get crazy detonation. Different intake, injectors, TB, and more importantly PCV delete and valve cover reliefs fixed it.
My understanding of the stall rpm is it should be set for approx 80-85% of torque gain on the incline and your shift points be at the at the same torque value on the decline, so you always cross the peak between shifts.
When I first bought my car (10 years old) I consumed about a quart every 1500 miles. I had to blend in 3 gallons of race gas with every tank or I would get crazy detonation. Different intake, injectors, TB, and more importantly PCV delete and valve cover reliefs fixed it.
My understanding of the stall rpm is it should be set for approx 80-85% of torque gain on the incline and your shift points be at the at the same torque value on the decline, so you always cross the peak between shifts.
08-27-2011 | 08:25 PM
#36
Was it accidently swapped with a TPI? that's what my TPI runs. It would be a good match. 
On the serious side, u should really check and make sure everything is up to par... Grab a good scanner and Check data and make sure the MAF is running like it should.
On the serious side, u should really check and make sure everything is up to par... Grab a good scanner and Check data and make sure the MAF is running like it should.
08-27-2011 | 08:32 PM
#37
The 4K stall is fine. The gear is fine.
Something is wrong. The first thing I'd do is a compression and leak down test. This will confirm that the motor is tight. If all goes well there, I'd get someone who's competent at scanning/diagnostic and start checking your sensors. Make sure the MAF is clean and functioning properly, 02's are switching like they should (although they zero out at WOT), check for misfires, etc. Also make sure your trans is shifting at the correct RPM. A stock A4 LS1 should be shifting around 5900-6100.
You don't need "this and that" parts. You need to diagnose a problem that's happening. Not band aid it with more parts.
Something is wrong. The first thing I'd do is a compression and leak down test. This will confirm that the motor is tight. If all goes well there, I'd get someone who's competent at scanning/diagnostic and start checking your sensors. Make sure the MAF is clean and functioning properly, 02's are switching like they should (although they zero out at WOT), check for misfires, etc. Also make sure your trans is shifting at the correct RPM. A stock A4 LS1 should be shifting around 5900-6100.
You don't need "this and that" parts. You need to diagnose a problem that's happening. Not band aid it with more parts.
08-27-2011 | 08:41 PM
#38
agreed. People tell u to replace this and that, then end up with the same problem after spending 100's of dollars when it could of been something as simple as a vacumm leak. Diagnose it correctly, if u don't have the equipment to do so or the know how, pay! Make sure u find a good shop and do some research about them before going.
08-27-2011 | 08:42 PM
#39
a dirty MAF could result in either condition but most likely the air wont cool the heating element as well so it would think there is less air going into the engine thus less fuel added resulting in a rich condition. but the MAF is the computers #1 resource for caculating how much fuel to add, if its not working right all hell breaks loose, and be careful with MAF cleaner I know it says its safe but its not, make sure its super dry before you ever plug it in
less fuel means leaner not richer
08-27-2011 | 08:49 PM
#40
100 dollar diagnosis should be pretty cheap to anyone and if you have done your basic checks and are unsure is recommended. Even though I am an ASE master tech I still do not know for sure sometimes and tell my friends and family to take it to the dealer. With your mods a dealer might be hesitant to work on it but you can ask the service manager. I would not trust any of my cars to any of the regular repair independent shops without knowing someone there.