Just got back from the engine shop with his quote in hand....

New rings - 166.47
Cam bearings - 36.48
Gaskets *2-es-72173* - 53.22
Gaskets *260-1910 - 347.20
Crank kit (Used crank) 299.20
Rods (2) - 100.16
Oil pump - M-295 - 98.71
misc - 45.00
pin fit/clean/align - 60.00
Hone cyl - 64.00
Install cam bearings - 50.00
Hot tank/degrease - 160.00
Assembly - 100.00
shop materials - 25.00

Basically, 2 rods, a crank, oil pump, re-ring again, gaskets, bearings, clean, and assemble for 1650.

 

I've had ppl tell me bent push rods, lifters, rockers, exhaust leak, pistons...I guessing really won't know till I open it :/

 

Its the best way to figure out what youll need, open it up.

 

So i opened it.. replaced rocker arms..one was broken.. and now this noise

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnpQjA-ViBs

 

is that the same noise that you got last time? More rockers broken?

 

No, way worse...the rocker arms are all new. Im guessing...spun bearing, valves or something is bent?

 

perhaps the rockers need some break in time?

 

hmm, IDK. Anyone know if new rockers need a breaking in period where they make a lot of noise?

its really inconsistent then becomes really fast and i shut the motor off..so i haven't ran it long..but nothing taps when i remove the ign relay and fuel relay..only when the car is actually running it taps.

 

I hope someone chimes in for you. I remember on my old BMW motor, when I bent a valve and got new valves, lifters, etc my car tapped loudly while I drive home but then it went away after a day and was fine after that.

 

That is really odd, I guess maybe they are stiffer. I hope, I'm at the point I may take it to a LSX expert shop here in GA, because I need the car working lol

 

so this is the sound now...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbY7clSDzN8

 

Isolate the sound to a cylinder, youll likely find which is causing the main knocking noise, but honestly, running it over and over without knowing what it is, is a bad idea. You could be further damaging something, or if it is a spun bearing, youre starving other bearing and putting metal shavings into the engine.

 

Update, heres my replacement for the time being. Im tired of seeing the car just sitting there.

2002 LM7
275$
90 day warranty
142k

Drove up to kalamazoo michigan and picked it up in my DD. I left at 530 and ot back home/work at 11:02. The employees there were like, OMG, that wont fit in there, you realize its a truck engine right. So after arguing with everyone for 15 mins, i told them to put it in the hatch and if something happened, its on me, but youre going to make me late for work. The guy got out his forklift and sat it in the hatch, 2 mins later, i had it bolted and chained to the bmw and was on the road.







Once at work, pulled it out and put it on the engine stand.





Tore it down, over the next couple of days, cleaned and painted, and now im at reassembly.

















I should but up and running before the end of the weekend.

 

Thanks everyone!


Mine turned out to be rod bearing going out! :/

 

Thats a bummer

 

Quite a monster, how did you interface the ls1 computer into car and get the gauges etc working? I've help create some monsters in my time but it was all older stuff before computers were involved.

Pont 400 in a old dodge ram, chevy sb in a 79 scout and a few others.

 

Glad to see you just got another motor. Much easier to work with a good one with a warranty.

 

Yea, it was a relief when i fired it up and didnt need to use the warranty. I wont speak too soon, i have another month and some days til the warranty runs out.

The bmw interface was pretty simple actually. The hatchback is the lightest e36 available from the factory, weighed in at 2900 with the ls1 installed which is only 55 more lbs than the stock 1.9L with a 5 speed and smaller differential. I had to build a small relay and fuse box for the swap which consists of 12 fuses and 6 relays, none of which is difficult at all. Add the bmw connector to the end of the harness and everything is PNP. I ran the bmw coolant temp sensor to the passenger head for reading in the cluster, the tach is automatically calculated, speedo is in the diff, gas is chassis based, oil pressure and voltage guages were added to the dash.