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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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hey guys, just had my engine rebuilt, scat 383 stroker manley pistons and rings, new block, heads, cam, high flow oil pump etc. running @ 9.15 compression turbo with 14lbs of boost. looking to do 6500 rpm shifts when racing. for the initial break in and on up to my second change (1000 miles total on the setup so far) ive been using a rotella 15w40. yes i know its diesel oil and its a high viscosity but its cleaning detergents seem to work well on the break in and i have really good flow still. the question is: i know gm's dexos 1 is made for their new blocks and FI cars and as a substitute mobile 1 synthetic. are there any draw backs of using a synthetic on our blocks with this setup? what was the factory oil the ls1 came with? not looking for the here say of ooh synthetics are always better cause i know hey arent. i'm pretty set on using the mobile 1 5w30 synth from my own research i guess i'm looking for some good informed feedback on what you've all seen
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by eodmonkey
what was the factory oil the ls1 came with? not looking for the here say of ooh synthetics are always better cause i know hey arent. i'm pretty set on using the mobile 1 5w30 synth from my own research i guess i'm looking for some good informed feedback on what you've all seen
All the Vettes with LS1 or LS6 came with Mobil 1 5w-30. All I know is that it seems to work well and keeps the guts of the engine absolutely spotless.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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You've done the right thing.....diesel oils have great break-in characteristics
Although you're not looking to save a flat tappet cam, the rings will seat to
the new hone finish much better this way. Then you can switch to the Mobil
5W30. Vettes came frome GM with it because the rings were pre-seated by
a robot and special assembly lubes.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by A.R. Shale Targa
Vettes came frome GM with it because the rings were pre-seated by
a robot and special assembly lubes.

So that's how they got around putting synthetic in there. I had not heard that.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by eodmonkey
i'm pretty set on using the mobile 1 5w30 synth from my own research i guess i'm looking for some good informed feedback on what you've all seen
This is the right viscosity for OEM LS engines using OEM main bearing clearances. Some engine builders use non-OEM main bearing clearances (larger) in modified engines. You may want to ask your builder about the main bearing clearances in your engine as compared with stock. Larger clearances warrant higher viscosity oils.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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I switched to RP 0 - 40 sometime ago and have been very pleased.
Oil usage is very low, performance is good and I have virtually zero valve train noise on start up.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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I just had a shortblock built with main clearances at .0019 using coated bearings. I will probably run some VR1, mixing 5w30 and 20w50 to make for about 12w40 or so.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 05:00 AM
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definitely some good stuff. thanks guys
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 08:04 AM
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The best oil I've found is German Castrol. It'll say "Made in Germany" on the back, is 0W-30 and is normally stocked at Pep Boys and Auto Zone.

It tests closer to a 10W-40. It has the highest breakdown temperature on the market.

It's highly regarded on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...2334699&page=1

Last edited by Paul Bell; Oct 15, 2011 at 08:13 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 08:13 AM
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Don't forget the importance of a "proper" oil filter. K&N and Mobil One Extended are some of the best off the shelf filters on the market. Carquest/Wix, Hastings and Bosch are OK. Stay away from Fram, Purolator, STP, Champion, Penzoil, store brands etc.

And stay away from Fram filters.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
Stay away from Fram, Purolator, STP, Champion, Penzoil, store brands etc.
Stay away from Purolator ... why? Don't tell me you've "heard" they are too restrictive. They are not.

Check this out.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...2088643&page=1

Most guys who know lots about oil filters will agree that Purolator is a very good filter for the money.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 03:17 PM
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http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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The inexpensive filters I said to avoid are traditionally poorly built with crappy filtering media and lousy valves. While there may be some exceptions in these brands, the better filters are just as common and easy to find as the cheep ones so there's no reason not to reach for the better one.

I can't reiterate it enough: Stay away from Fram oil filters.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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A while back on this forum there was a poster who swore that "Wal-Mart" filters were better than Fram and STP and Purolator.............of course they're not made by Wal-Mart ,,,,,,,,,,,any info about this claim ??????
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by chrisfrost
A while back on this forum there was a poster who swore that "Wal-Mart" filters were better than Fram and STP and Purolator.............of course they're not made by Wal-Mart ,,,,,,,,,,,any info about this claim ??????
He's probably talking about "Super-Tech" filters. I'd stay away from them also. My favorite brands are Purolator, WIX, NAPA Gold (same as WIX) and Amsoil. I'm sure there are other good ones out there too. Being a member of BITOG for a couple of years and you will come to realize that those are the best bang for the buck filters. The new Royal Purple oil filter is nice too ... but kind of expensive.

The ONLY Fram oil filter I'd use is the Extended Gaurd (XG series). It's actually a very nice filter based on the info seen on BITOG.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 05:27 AM
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I woood stay away from ANY ecore design oil filter. They are easy to pick out, just look inside the filter and if you see what looks like a black plastic cage surrounding the filter media its a ecore.

I buy Purolator filters by the case from Pepboys. I use what they call their proline filter. Its a high quailty filter but only 2.50 each by the case and its NOT ecore<FARKING JUNK!
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:42 AM
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It never ceases to amaze me how many people who normally wouldn't think of spending money on parts like wheels, brakes or engine parts will cheep out and get a $2.50 POS oil filter rather than a well built high performance oil filter that's $12.00 (or less on sale).

The good filters are well ahead of the cheep ones.

I NEVER call anybody names here on LS1tech but guys using **** oil filters and saving five or six bucks ARE IDIOTS.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfj9KUv0pKY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_mQcIyteQk

Last edited by Paul Bell; Oct 16, 2011 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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This is THE BEST filter you can have on a LS1 engine:
http://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Filtration-Fleetguard-Filter-LF16104/dp/B001JPF5Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1318779748&sr=8-3
It's a truck filter and is longer than a standard filter. It does stick out under the oil pan about a half inch. Even when I was slammed, I never hit the filter despite NYC's **** streets.

If you want a standard height filter:
http://www.finditparts.com/products/...etguard-lf3945

Both these filters have upgraded filter media.

A little research and education will take you a long way.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
This is THE BEST filter you can have on a LS1 engine:
http://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Filtration-Fleetguard-Filter-LF16104/dp/B001JPF5Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1318779748&sr=8-3
It's a truck filter and is longer than a standard filter. It does stick out under the oil pan about a half inch. Even when I was slammed, I never hit the filter despite NYC's **** streets.
So what's the filtering efficiency at 20 microns on that filter? I'd never put a longer filter on a LS1/LS6 (unless it was in a 4x4) no matter how much good luck someone else had doing it. All it takes is one good hit and you're dumping oil all over the place and potentially smoking an engine over it.

BTW ... the Extra Guard and Extended Guard (XG) are not the same filter. If Fram made all their filters like the XG then they'd probably have a much better reputation. I'm not a Fram fan or an Ecore fan either.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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Not to long ago on tech there was a member that had one rip off after hitting a speed bump to hard. He was luckily enough to catch it before any damage was done
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