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Tap and die crankshaft threads? Rookie mistake w/ crank pulley removal

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Tap and die crankshaft threads? Rookie mistake w/ crank pulley removal

 
Old 11-11-2011, 09:51 AM
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Damn. Didn't even think about that mightybird. You guys rock. Right now I'm on a mission for some tools though. Typical 3 stage tap kit and a thread chaser for M16 x 2. I hope I can land the tools locally from Grainger or a place like that. I've tried Home Depot, Advance Auto, Sears, and the biggest they have is M12
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Old 11-11-2011, 10:12 AM
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Give this place a try, they always seem to have anything for machining that i need.
http://www.use-enco.com
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:01 PM
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Get a bolt from a hardware store and make a thread chaser. Not hard to do. Use a new bolt since crank bolts are TTY, and a used crank bolt will have some deformation along its thread/length.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:06 PM
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:37 PM
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I think I'd try doing what Mightybird and Bluestreak have suggested before buying a $45 tap that you'll only use once. I'd use a socket head cap screw because they're generally made out of harder steel than hex head bolts.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mightybird View Post
get a stock crank bolt and take a die grinder and cut some slits in it its worked for me and try that its worked for me in the past.
Originally Posted by Bluestreak View Post
Get a bolt from a hardware store and make a thread chaser. Not hard to do. Use a new bolt since crank bolts are TTY, and a used crank bolt will have some deformation along its thread/length.
I have done this many times, make your own chaser with the bolt.

Cut grooves in it like a chaser/tap looks so the metal has somewhere to go as the thread material is cut/straightend. You can use a dremel, I many times have used a bench grinder and just grinded down two sides of the bolt then spray lubricant on the bolt and go nice and easy with it until the threads are cleaned up.

Go in a little bit then back out and clean up the bits of metal inside the crank and on the bolt, then go in a little further and repeat until you have fixed all threads.

You can go rent a pulley puller that bolts to the balancer and has a fat tip on it that won't go down inside the crank snout to pull the pulley back off. If you can't get that set up to work use a 3/8" extension to bottom out inside the snout of the crank and press off of that.



And if you try to press that pulley on by hammering on that bolt you will mess up the threads again so you need to get a pulley installer also. People sell them on here.

You can try heating the pulley to 200 degrees or so, maybe up to about 240 so that it slides over the crank easier. Sand down the inside of the pulley and clean the crank snout real good, then put some light lubricant on the crank snout and inside the pulley. Then when you are installing the pulley put a little oil on the bolt threads, the bolt head, and on the contact surface of the pulley to the bolt and it will also help the install since metal wont try to grab the other metal surface.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:48 PM
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$45 seems like a small price to pay considering a new crank is $1000 plus disassembling and then assembling
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Old 11-11-2011, 01:37 PM
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If you pound the balancer on with a hammer a little bit, you should be able to pull it the rest of the way on with the bolt and an impact right? Since you should be on enuf to where the threads are in a ways.
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Old 11-11-2011, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by deejaydaze View Post
$45 seems like a small price to pay considering a new crank is $1000 plus disassembling and then assembling
It is, buy the install tool to so you don't have too worry about this anymore.

Originally Posted by z99ls1 View Post
If you pound the balancer on with a hammer a little bit, you should be able to pull it the rest of the way on with the bolt and an impact right? Since you should be on enuf to where the threads are in a ways.
Sometimes yes a lot of times no. That is a risky way of doing it and it is not good to pound on the balancer because that pounds on the crank.
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Old 11-11-2011, 03:14 PM
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This balancer is keyed. I have the puller installer tool. I was talking $45 for a tapping bit instead of grinding a used balancer bolt to home make a tap. =) Once again you guys are awesome. Thinking a bit about this more. Since I jacked up the threads with a socket extension, there is most likely 4 corners of the threads that are pushed in a chewed.
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Old 11-11-2011, 04:04 PM
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Before ordering that tap, please check this out. I couldn't remember what the harmonic bolt size is....was it a m16x2?
I order from these folks often. You won't believe the prices, and everything I've used their tools/taps etc on have turned out perfect.
http://www.tools-plus.com/irwin-1756.html
If this isn't the exact part size, call them with what you need.
Shipping is $6.50.
Located in Waterbury CT.
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Old 11-11-2011, 04:39 PM
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Just realized that the above tap is black oxide.
They may have the high strength steel version though.
If they do, it will be half the cost of the $45 version.
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Old 11-11-2011, 04:54 PM
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DAMN. Good looking out on that one.
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:08 PM
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On second thought, the tap shown in my first post may be just fine.
Call them and connect to customer service. These guys will tell you if the inexpensive bit will be appropriate for your application.
Heck, I see that the brand is Irwin...good stuff.
Did I mention that you'll have the tap in a couple of days?
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Old 11-11-2011, 10:58 PM
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You know, I've been thinking about the operation of a tap on this kind of issue. The tap would have to be thin enough at the tip, and tapered at the correct angle in order to insert it, then have threads match up to the good, existing threads within the crank.
If the threads of the tap & the threads of the crank bolt hole engage, then the tap should do its' job and correctly recut the area which is damaged.
If the tap is not able to be inserted far enough to engage the good threads, then you won't be allowed to redo those damaged threads.
The tap cannot be allowed to just begin cutting at the top of the bolt hole, because those newly created threads may or may not meet up with the existing good threads within the crank.
Just a thought or two.
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:42 AM
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To all my lovely friends who have been helping me,

Good and bad news.

The Grainger tap worked perfect and I got the pulley off as well.

I was millimeters away from starting the oil pump to pick up tube. I dropped it 4 times and had a rag stuffed in there. Each time I was able to get the bolt. On the 5th try I didn't realize the rag slipped and now the bolt rolled into the pan.

I have the PA Kmember but I guess I have to lift the motor to remove the pan right??
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:01 AM
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I don't remember how an oil pan is baffled, but would it be possible to lower a magnet on a string or a long pipe cleaner, into the timing cover opening of oil pan?
Being that the (my) pan is aluminum, I wonder if an electromagnet would be able to recover the bolt?
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:07 AM
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I'm gonna definitely try all sorts of magnets first. It's aluminum but I think ill hit the crank with a magnet. Rookie mistake #2. I was so close.

I really don't want to remove the tranny again.
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:31 AM
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:01 PM
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Maybe a combination of lowering the front of the pan, and a magnet?
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