Should I install connecting rods
Should I install connecting rods I am going to have the engine out of my LS6 CTS-V soon to replace the oil pan and while its out I will adding:
-Headers
-tr224 114 cam (or something like it, daily driver)
My car/engine has 70,000 miles on it. I don't plan on any other power upgrades.
Should I install rod bolts?
-Headers
-tr224 114 cam (or something like it, daily driver)
My car/engine has 70,000 miles on it. I don't plan on any other power upgrades.
Should I install rod bolts?
Is there a cam that will give me good power with out high revs? (or is that a noobish question?)
I would like to track it. I won't be drag racing it.
if you not adding anymore power adders, and your 100% sure on that. id leave em alone. You can add studs if you want, just for your own piece of mind, but you really dont need them. especially at 70,000miles. Shes just getting broke in!! lol Id be more worried about the valve springs. pick up a nice set of springs and push rods and give her hell. The Tr224 will make good power. and you def dont have to rec that cam to the moon
im on a stock shortblock with a blower, and im not really worried about my ****....as of yet. o did i mention i have 112,000 miles on mine
. high miles FTW! lol
im on a stock shortblock with a blower, and im not really worried about my ****....as of yet. o did i mention i have 112,000 miles on mine
. high miles FTW! lol Thanks, that is actually very useful.
So, if my mechanic uses Katech rod bolts the install itself won't create any risk, correct?
I keep seeing threads where people say you have to go to machine shop to have stuff measured...yatta, yatta, yatta when you install the rod bolts. And that if the bolts are installed jusssst right it will move stuff around and that could spin a bearing.
Is that correct? Is there any inherit risk when simply replacing the rod bolts with the aftermarket katechs?
So, if my mechanic uses Katech rod bolts the install itself won't create any risk, correct?
I keep seeing threads where people say you have to go to machine shop to have stuff measured...yatta, yatta, yatta when you install the rod bolts. And that if the bolts are installed jusssst right it will move stuff around and that could spin a bearing.
Is that correct? Is there any inherit risk when simply replacing the rod bolts with the aftermarket katechs?
the only problem i could see is the bolts getting over torqued. just put the caps back in their original positions and use the correct torque on the bolts. I dont see an issue with added wear just by replacing rod bolts.
now if you were replacing bearings, that would be a different story....
im sure someone else will chime in also. good luck with ur build!
now if you were replacing bearings, that would be a different story....
im sure someone else will chime in also. good luck with ur build!
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
i would look at the rod bolts with regard to rpm. the stock bolts can take a LOT of power. as long as you keep the rpm reasonable (sub 6800 or so imho) you will be fine. that rpm should be at the very top of a 224s usability, so i wouldn't worry much with stock rod bolts.
your thread title says something about connecting rods...are you wanting to upgrade those? because they will definitely stretch at high rpms, typically they will do so before the bolts fail.
just fyi, adding rod bolts will not decrease your chances of spinning a bearing. i believe it is quite the contrary as the rod bolts will theoretically let the engine spin faster actually increasing the chance of a spun bearing. bearings spin due to lack of oil...typically because the high rpms allow the pump to send all of the oil out of the pan quicker than it is returned.
i would look at the rod bolts with regard to rpm. the stock bolts can take a LOT of power. as long as you keep the rpm reasonable (sub 6800 or so imho) you will be fine. that rpm should be at the very top of a 224s usability, so i wouldn't worry much with stock rod bolts.
your thread title says something about connecting rods...are you wanting to upgrade those? because they will definitely stretch at high rpms, typically they will do so before the bolts fail.
i would look at the rod bolts with regard to rpm. the stock bolts can take a LOT of power. as long as you keep the rpm reasonable (sub 6800 or so imho) you will be fine. that rpm should be at the very top of a 224s usability, so i wouldn't worry much with stock rod bolts.
your thread title says something about connecting rods...are you wanting to upgrade those? because they will definitely stretch at high rpms, typically they will do so before the bolts fail.
I will have the oil pan off. So, i was curious if I should replace the bolts since they will be accessible. As for the connecting rods, I think I got my terminology confused. That would be a bigger job if I am not mistaken.
From what I have gathered it sounds like I will be ok with my stock rod bolts. I have no plans of adding a blower to this setup. So, perhaps I will just leave the rod bolts as they are.
Just for my own edification, is replacing the rod bolts commonly seen as an easy job? I know someone else also weighed in on this, but is there any inherit risk when you begin untorquing the old bolts and then retourquing on new ones (stuff coming out of its fine alignment or whatever)?
