Zero Oil Pressure & metal flakes
Zero Oil Pressure & metal flakes EDIT..12/6/2011...PICS ADDED below
I had three episodes of decreasing oil pressure. The first time, there was gas in the oil. I changed the oil & filter, and pressure was restored to about 28lbs, hot.
The second time, pressure went to 4-8 lbs. The engine was shut off, then let sit for a few minutes, then restarted. Pressure went back to 24 lbs hot.
The third time, there was some clatter. I looked down at the mechanical gauge to see 'zero'. I was around the block from home, so I feathered it & parked it in the garage.
Inspecting the filter, there is a small sum of glitter-looking, small bits. The metal is non-ferrous/non-magnetic.
I changed the oil pump, thinking that the relief valve wasn't functioning.
An aborted attempt was made to inspect the pickup screen, because the pan couldn't be moved enough to gain access to the screen.
After changing the pump, I cranked the engine in an attempt to see if pressure was restored. It wasn't
So, now I know that the engine will have to be pulled so I can check all bearings/parts.
Here are my questions...1)Are the bearings in these engines non-metallic?
2)The brightness of the metal tells me that it could be aluminum...is there anywhere on the aluminum block that can become abrased?
3)If I inspect the crank caps & rods, are all of the bolts TTY? (they have to be replaced)
4)Is there a how-to video about rebuilding LS1 blocks? I'm going to do everything except the machining, of course. Thanks.
I had three episodes of decreasing oil pressure. The first time, there was gas in the oil. I changed the oil & filter, and pressure was restored to about 28lbs, hot.
The second time, pressure went to 4-8 lbs. The engine was shut off, then let sit for a few minutes, then restarted. Pressure went back to 24 lbs hot.
The third time, there was some clatter. I looked down at the mechanical gauge to see 'zero'. I was around the block from home, so I feathered it & parked it in the garage.
Inspecting the filter, there is a small sum of glitter-looking, small bits. The metal is non-ferrous/non-magnetic.
I changed the oil pump, thinking that the relief valve wasn't functioning.
An aborted attempt was made to inspect the pickup screen, because the pan couldn't be moved enough to gain access to the screen.
After changing the pump, I cranked the engine in an attempt to see if pressure was restored. It wasn't
So, now I know that the engine will have to be pulled so I can check all bearings/parts.
Here are my questions...1)Are the bearings in these engines non-metallic?
2)The brightness of the metal tells me that it could be aluminum...is there anywhere on the aluminum block that can become abrased?
3)If I inspect the crank caps & rods, are all of the bolts TTY? (they have to be replaced)
4)Is there a how-to video about rebuilding LS1 blocks? I'm going to do everything except the machining, of course. Thanks.
Last edited by gMAG; Dec 6, 2011 at 08:46 PM.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
The main, rod, cam bearings are a steel shell with one or more layers of white-metal babbit (not aluminum)... i.e. the bearing material is non-magnetic (is this what you meant...?).
There is a video somewhere, but you really need the GM service manual.
There is a video somewhere, but you really need the GM service manual.
barnes and noble or one of them has a nice book on rebuilding the ls based engines, great to have. the main and rod bolts are reusable, but for 90 id invest in a set of arp's. the mains are torque to angle and u need an angle gauge (autozone or similar has them on the shelf for in the $20 range). the balancer bolt is to be replaced every removal. as far as anything aluminum shaving off internally, theres nothing i can think of.
Torque to angle...I hadn't heard of that before. Just ordered the tool from KD Tools.
I already have the ARP's.
The 'white metal' of the bearings that Joecar mentioned, must be what I'm seeing in the oil.
I already have the ARP's.
The 'white metal' of the bearings that Joecar mentioned, must be what I'm seeing in the oil.
bearings are cheap, you are already in there, may as well replace it all, by the time u pull them all to see which is bad. wait to order them until you get it apart though in case something needs to be machined.
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Yes, you will at least need to have your rotating assembly checked by a competent engine shop. You may have damaged the crank. While you're at it, some nice forged pistons, a set of rings and a hone job by the shop should be on your list. Heads will be off? Great time to have them freshened up.
I'm curious: What oil & filter were you using? How did you inspect the filter, did you cut it open?
I'm curious: What oil & filter were you using? How did you inspect the filter, did you cut it open?
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Verdad Gallardo Yes, you will at least need to have your rotating assembly checked by a competent engine shop. You may have damaged the crank. While you're at it, some nice forged pistons, a set of rings and a hone job by the shop should be on your list. Heads will be off? Great time to have them freshened up.
I'm curious: What oil & filter were you using? How did you inspect the filter, did you cut it open?
I'm curious: What oil & filter were you using? How did you inspect the filter, did you cut it open?
The heads have all new parts/lifters, rockers, pushrods, valvejob.
Castrol 10w-30 conventional & Fram extra guard.
I've always felt from day one that the oil pressure was low, compared to that of others here. The failure might or might not be connected to this.
As far as forged pistons, depending on your plans for te car, they are not a necessity. I'd go ahead and pull it all apart, re-ring, new bearings, oil pump and etc. Also check the lifters and cam. But that metal would be magnetic. Good luck and take pics. Interested in seeing what happened.
My motor I just built guy said it lost oil pressure and he shut it down, instead of just slapping a new pump on I pulled the engine apart and found all the lifters damaged and one completely destroyed, and a ruined camshaft.
My motor I just built guy said it lost oil pressure and he shut it down, instead of just slapping a new pump on I pulled the engine apart and found all the lifters damaged and one completely destroyed, and a ruined camshaft.
As far as forged pistons, depending on your plans for te car, they are not a necessity. I'd go ahead and pull it all apart, re-ring, new bearings, oil pump and etc. Also check the lifters and cam. But that metal would be magnetic. Good luck and take pics. Interested in seeing what happened.
My motor I just built guy said it lost oil pressure and he shut it down, instead of just slapping a new pump on I pulled the engine apart and found all the lifters damaged and one completely destroyed, and a ruined camshaft.
My motor I just built guy said it lost oil pressure and he shut it down, instead of just slapping a new pump on I pulled the engine apart and found all the lifters damaged and one completely destroyed, and a ruined camshaft.
That metal I see is the babbit lining. imo
Last edited by gMAG; Dec 2, 2011 at 10:26 AM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, VA
To check everything you are going to have the engine down to the block. I recommend having the rotating assembly checks at a shop that is reputable with ls series engines. Replace all the bearings anyway. If your engine has high miles look into an oil pump, lifters, valves, springs, and a water pump. It would suck to just replace the bearings and then have a lifter or spring fail and start messing stuff up. I had 140,000 on my engine when I rebuilt it 2 months ago. I had my rotating assembly checked at an ls speed shop and they were fine. All I had to do was clean the top of the pistons and new bearings. As long as you take your time and double check everything you will be fine, I had a lot of fun rebuilding my engine and it was my first complete rebuild.
To check everything you are going to have the engine down to the block. I recommend having the rotating assembly checks at a shop that is reputable with ls series engines. Replace all the bearings anyway. If your engine has high miles look into an oil pump, lifters, valves, springs, and a water pump. It would suck to just replace the bearings and then have a lifter or spring fail and start messing stuff up. I had 140,000 on my engine when I rebuilt it 2 months ago. I had my rotating assembly checked at an ls speed shop and they were fine. All I had to do was clean the top of the pistons and new bearings. As long as you take your time and double check everything you will be fine, I had a lot of fun rebuilding my engine and it was my first complete rebuild.
I learned that even though an engine has little mileage, that that doesn't ensure that seals on the (old-original) waterpump, or the pwr steer pump, etc are good after sitting around unused for a few years.
The bottom end was checked at the beginning of the year and was found to be like new.
The symptoms pointed toward a moving cam bearing, or possibly the relief valve in the oil pump.
After replacing the oil pump, there was zero pressure.
I think I'm going to start at the top of the block and work my way down.
