How much will a big cam decrease the life of my engine?
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From: Chicago, IL
How much will a big cam decrease the life of my engine? I want to put in a cam after I take care of my Tranny and exhaust. I was wondering how much a big cam is going to reduce the life of my engine? I was leaing toward the TSP231/237 but I was wondering if the 224/224 would be a better choice . How much of a power difference would there be, and how much easier on the engine would the smaller one be. I wouldn't have the money to rebuild the engine if it blows.
it all depends on how much time you spend utilizing the topend power on the cam. if you just drive it daily like a normal person 
and make some track passes a few time a month, it should last for a long time.
and make some track passes a few time a month, it should last for a long time. I think where most folks get in trouble with cams is from valve spring issues. Sounds like a TR224 might be a good cam to consider for you. I think the key items to keep in mind are.
Quality springs
Dual's tend to be a little more disaster proof than singles.
XE-R and faster ramp rates are very hard on springs.
High lift is hard on springs.
Light weight is always good for the valve train. Titanium retainers help a little bit with this. Aftermarket rockers that don't add mass (over stock ones) on the valve tip are good.
If you do a cam be conservative and change the springs after reasonable amout of use and abused, don't push the limits.
Always let the car fully warm up before beating on it. Keep the rpm under 2,000 until the oil is warm enough the oil pressure drops to normal and the water temp at normal.
With aftermarket rockers make sure sweep is nice and tight otherwise the rocker will be more prone to knock the valve seat out.
Get an installer that really knows this stuff inside and out to help avoid problems.
Understand there is some risk with any cam mod.
Quality springs
Dual's tend to be a little more disaster proof than singles.
XE-R and faster ramp rates are very hard on springs.
High lift is hard on springs.
Light weight is always good for the valve train. Titanium retainers help a little bit with this. Aftermarket rockers that don't add mass (over stock ones) on the valve tip are good.
If you do a cam be conservative and change the springs after reasonable amout of use and abused, don't push the limits.
Always let the car fully warm up before beating on it. Keep the rpm under 2,000 until the oil is warm enough the oil pressure drops to normal and the water temp at normal.
With aftermarket rockers make sure sweep is nice and tight otherwise the rocker will be more prone to knock the valve seat out.
Get an installer that really knows this stuff inside and out to help avoid problems.
Understand there is some risk with any cam mod.
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From: Denton, TX
Originally Posted by 01blufrmla
What would the difference be between the 231/237 and the 224/224.
With the 224, you probably wouldn't run a dual spring unless you want the extra insurance. With the larger amount of lift on the 231/237, it is not a good idea to run a single spring, however, some people do it. You are pushing the limits of a spring like a Comp 918 when you run it close to the max lift the spring was designed for.
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From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by koolaid
The duration and lift are both different. The 231/237 has more intake/exhaust duration than the 224/224. Then you look at the lift on the 231 (.598/.595) intake/exhaust respectively, and you can see the differences.
With the 224, you probably wouldn't run a dual spring unless you want the extra insurance. With the larger amount of lift on the 231/237, it is not a good idea to run a single spring, however, some people do it. You are pushing the limits of a spring like a Comp 918 when you run it close to the max lift the spring was designed for.
With the 224, you probably wouldn't run a dual spring unless you want the extra insurance. With the larger amount of lift on the 231/237, it is not a good idea to run a single spring, however, some people do it. You are pushing the limits of a spring like a Comp 918 when you run it close to the max lift the spring was designed for.
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Originally Posted by 01blufrmla
Considering that it would be a normal street driver with trips to the track once every couple of mods or months, whichever comes first.
I'll guess 10 to 15 rwhp more peak rwhp for the 231/237 over the 224/224 all other things being equal. The 224/224 is likely to make more power down low and have a better low end torque curve. The 224 will not need to rev as high so it's safer in that regard. My 224 peaks at 5,900 rpm and I shift at ~6,200 to 6,300 rpm. That's an almost stock red line so the engine isn't being stressed as hard as spinning to say ~6,600 rpm to 6,800 with the bigger 231/237.
May be a cam in between the 224 & 231/237 is what you really seek. Think about a ~230 XE-R?
Which cylinder heads? Depending on the head it could favor one or the other based on the way the valve job is set up.
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From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by 99 Black Bird T/A
May be a cam in between the 224 & 231/237 is what you really seek. Think about a ~230 XE-R?
I think you would be very happy with a TR224; I certainly am. You can get what ever lope you want with this cam by how you tune the PCM. This is the ultimate street cam IMO. If racing performance was your highest priority, I would get something in the 230 range on both intake and exhaust like the TSP231/237, it will make more high rpm power but less low rpm power for a daily driver.
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From: Denton, TX
Originally Posted by 01blufrmla
DUH? Yes I know what the mechanical differences and how a cam works. I know what duration and lift are. My question was referring to if anyone here who has dealt with both of those cams could tell me how much of a horsepower difference I would see between those cams. And mabye an estimate of the diference in thousands of miles of longevity between them. Considering that it would be a normal street driver with trips to the track once every couple of mods or months, whichever comes first.
I would say the 224 would be easier on your valvetrain for daily use, and the 231/237 would be more rough because of the higher lift.
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From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by koolaid
Okay, maybe you should be more clear about it next time so I don't have to waste my time typing it all out!
Thanks Black Bird. Thats what I was lloking for. 10-15 RWHP would be worth the sacrifice of a longer engine life IMO. I can find that somewhere else. I would probably prefer the low end tourqe too, I like driving kinda quick on the street.
I would think the 231 237 Cam would give more than 10 to 15RWHP than the 224 will provide. With the Higher Lift and the longer durration. On Stock heads and dyno tuned, I would think 20 RWHP + would be more accurate on Stock Heads and all the bolt ons
Clint
Clint
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From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by HUGGER ORANGE SS
I would think the 231 237 Cam would give more than 10 to 15RWHP than the 224 will provide. With the Higher Lift and the longer durration. On Stock heads and dyno tuned, I would think 20 RWHP + would be more accurate on Stock Heads and all the bolt ons
Clint
Clint
Originally Posted by HUGGER ORANGE SS
I would think the 231 237 Cam would give more than 10 to 15RWHP than the 224 will provide. With the Higher Lift and the longer durration. On Stock heads and dyno tuned, I would think 20 RWHP + would be more accurate on Stock Heads and all the bolt ons
Clint
Clint
