ARP head studs need help asap!
#21
#22
#23
#24
ARP tap
Buy the tool, I snapped an ARP head bolt and it was nowhere near the bottom. I had blown all the fluids out with air before beginning so i know it wasn't hydrolocked. After paying my machinist to get the broken bolt out of the engine I ended up buying the tap from ARP. I could not beleive all the white crap that came out of all the threads. Not sure what it was but it was well worth the money to buy the tap.
#25
I never realized that the 11mm x 2.00 thread was such an odd size.
Other than the very expensive ARP taps, there are no taps or thread chasers to be found. There's not even standard bolts to be found in that size.
ARP must think they have a lock on this BUT WAIT!
I just found this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OSG-M11-X-2-...-/350436521593
Other than the very expensive ARP taps, there are no taps or thread chasers to be found. There's not even standard bolts to be found in that size.
ARP must think they have a lock on this BUT WAIT!
I just found this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OSG-M11-X-2-...-/350436521593
#29
There should be no problem running a tap instead of a chase through a thread. It'll be even cleaner.
I have a SAE chaser set and was never totally satisfied with how "clean" it made the thread I used it in. If I need to clean a thread, I'd reach for a tap first.
If you look carefully at what ARP sells as a "chase" you'll see it's really a bottoming tap.
Here's what a true thread chase looks like:
I have a SAE chaser set and was never totally satisfied with how "clean" it made the thread I used it in. If I need to clean a thread, I'd reach for a tap first.
If you look carefully at what ARP sells as a "chase" you'll see it's really a bottoming tap.
Here's what a true thread chase looks like:
#30
There's always this solution which will save you money & time:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...d-chasers.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...d-chasers.html
#31
I'm no expert here, but ARP sells the tool as a thread cleaner. The true difference between a "cleaner" and a "tap" is beyond me, but I wouldnt throw the dice on my very expensive engine to save $20.
The cutting bolt method works for some, but not as effective as the tool. Also again, if you dont know what youre doing, you may create sharp edges on the bolt and dic up the threads....
Again, I would buy the tools, and re-sell them.
The cutting bolt method works for some, but not as effective as the tool. Also again, if you dont know what youre doing, you may create sharp edges on the bolt and dic up the threads....
Again, I would buy the tools, and re-sell them.
#32
Note that you don't want a "tap"... you want specifically a thread "chaser" or "cleaner".
tap: cuts thread (removes metal from host)
chaser: follows existing threads (straightening bent threads as it goes)(does not cut)
cleaner: follows existing threads (cleaning junk out as it goes)(does not cut)
chaser and cleaner may be the same, and they do not cut or otherwise remove metal.
Modified bolt would clean out junk, but may damage existing threads.
tap: cuts thread (removes metal from host)
chaser: follows existing threads (straightening bent threads as it goes)(does not cut)
cleaner: follows existing threads (cleaning junk out as it goes)(does not cut)
chaser and cleaner may be the same, and they do not cut or otherwise remove metal.
Modified bolt would clean out junk, but may damage existing threads.
#33
Well, I personally have rebuilt tools for down-hole drilling applications that I've hydro-tested at 9500#. All we ever used in the shop was taps to clean the threads. If you thread it by hand from the start it should make NO difference. If you can't feel the difference between "cleaning" a thread and "cutting" a thread, there's problems to begin with.
That being said, when the time comes, I'm either going to buy a set of the ARP chasers from someone on here, or rent them from someone and send them back.
That being said, when the time comes, I'm either going to buy a set of the ARP chasers from someone on here, or rent them from someone and send them back.
Last edited by dr_whigham; 05-15-2012 at 06:59 PM.
#34
A thread chaser/cleaner straightens existing threads that are deformed... a tap will attempt to cut a new thread thru these.
With steel you can get away with using a tap as a thread cleaner... but aluminum is very soft and is very easy to remove material from (even driving the tap by hand).
With steel you can get away with using a tap as a thread cleaner... but aluminum is very soft and is very easy to remove material from (even driving the tap by hand).
#36
I'll guaranty you can use a ARP thread chaser to cut fresh threads into a blank hole. Try that with a proper thread chaser.
#37
I didn't mean majorly deformed... I simply meant more like a few nicks on the crests of the threads.
(if the threads are majorly deformed you drill them out and install a Time-Sert... you wouldn't need a chaser/cleaner).
(if the threads are majorly deformed you drill them out and install a Time-Sert... you wouldn't need a chaser/cleaner).
#38
I never realized that the 11mm x 2.00 thread was such an odd size.
Other than the very expensive ARP taps, there are no taps or thread chasers to be found. There's not even standard bolts to be found in that size.
ARP must think they have a lock on this BUT WAIT!
I just found this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OSG-M11-X-2-COOLANT-THRU-LONG-PLUG-METRIC-11mm-TAP-NEW-/350436521593
Other than the very expensive ARP taps, there are no taps or thread chasers to be found. There's not even standard bolts to be found in that size.
ARP must think they have a lock on this BUT WAIT!
I just found this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OSG-M11-X-2-COOLANT-THRU-LONG-PLUG-METRIC-11mm-TAP-NEW-/350436521593