228r or polluter for DD
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 2
From: Odessa, TX
Yea that's big $$ for the polluter. I'm ballin on a budget lol. I buy a little here a little there. Thanks for all the help.
Like my friend said. Is a stall really needed for the 228? Or just another mod to really wake it up after a cam?
Like my friend said. Is a stall really needed for the 228? Or just another mod to really wake it up after a cam?
Not trying to be a dick, but you friend needs to stop giving you HORRIBLY FALSE advise.. The 228r is a pretty decent sized cam. Without a stall the car will see minimal gains. The stall keeps you in your powerband for the cam. With stock stall everytime you shift it's going to have a huge dead spot. The bigger cam makes power at a higher rpm. A stall is 150% needed. You will knock off more et with a stall than you ever will with a cam. I went from 12.99 to 12.3 from stock stall to a circle d 3400 stall. Not to mention it will be hard to tune, drive like ****, and pull on your brakes like a bitch.... With that cam a minimum of 3000 stall is needed imo. A 3600-4000 for best results. I hope you do not listen to whatever you friend is telling you lol. I promise you won't be happy if you do.
Yes, massively different. Stock LS heads flow what 'race' old school heads used to, and that alone is enough to make cams act differently. It's a completely different engine design, so guidelines on what worked in 'old school' motors aren't applicable to modern engine design.
In short, stop listening to him.
Also: Go with a 3600 converter. I have a Yank 3600 SS in my '98. It's a damned good converter on the street.
In short, stop listening to him.
Also: Go with a 3600 converter. I have a Yank 3600 SS in my '98. It's a damned good converter on the street.
Get the stall and tranny cooler first, get used to that. DD.. 3000-3200.. street demon 3600-4000. CircleD or Yank, nothing else.
A Cam swap should always be the last thing you do TBH, cuz you need so many supporting mods to make it reliable and drivable. You can't just throw in a cam and hope for the best, thats *** backwards. And you better not be buying to just for the sound, I will personally drive over there and steal your ls1 and give you a junkyard lt1.
and I would contact PatG to spec you a cam optimized for that setup vs a over the shelf cam. If you just absolutely HAD TO HAVE A OFF THE SHELF CAM, torquer 3 112lsa would be a decent cam thats still driveable, or a torquer2 at a 113 lsa if u want to use spray (refer to carter01)
A Cam swap should always be the last thing you do TBH, cuz you need so many supporting mods to make it reliable and drivable. You can't just throw in a cam and hope for the best, thats *** backwards. And you better not be buying to just for the sound, I will personally drive over there and steal your ls1 and give you a junkyard lt1.
and I would contact PatG to spec you a cam optimized for that setup vs a over the shelf cam. If you just absolutely HAD TO HAVE A OFF THE SHELF CAM, torquer 3 112lsa would be a decent cam thats still driveable, or a torquer2 at a 113 lsa if u want to use spray (refer to carter01)
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so you might get 400 rwhp but it will not show on the dyno.
Not trying to be a dick, but you friend needs to stop giving you HORRIBLY FALSE advise.. The 228r is a pretty decent sized cam. Without a stall the car will see minimal gains. The stall keeps you in your powerband for the cam. With stock stall everytime you shift it's going to have a huge dead spot. The bigger cam makes power at a higher rpm. A stall is 150% needed. You will knock off more et with a stall than you ever will with a cam. I went from 12.99 to 12.3 from stock stall to a circle d 3400 stall. Not to mention it will be hard to tune, drive like ****, and pull on your brakes like a bitch.... With that cam a minimum of 3000 stall is needed imo. A 3600-4000 for best results. I hope you do not listen to whatever you friend is telling you lol. I promise you won't be happy if you do.
This wouldnt be a bad choise either, the T2 has a lil more lift & duration. Not as street friendly as the 228. For a DD I wouldnt go with a polluter.
Like has been mentioned all through this thread. Get yourself a quality stall in the 3000+ range with a big cooler. And than you can get the cam and get it tuned. Getting a cam first is doing it in the wrong order. You will be fine running a stall on stock tune, but a tranny cooler is a must
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...%2070264&dds=1
I've been running a Yank 3000 with a bolt on tune from Frost. Have about 15k no issue's. I'm Running the cooler that came with my Performabuilt Trans. Sorry don't recall what size it was.