228r or polluter for DD
05-25-2012, 11:46 PM
#41
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Yea that's big $$ for the polluter. I'm ballin on a budget lol. I buy a little here a little there. Thanks for all the help.
Like my friend said. Is a stall really needed for the 228? Or just another mod to really wake it up after a cam?
Like my friend said. Is a stall really needed for the 228? Or just another mod to really wake it up after a cam?
05-26-2012, 12:07 AM
#42
Not trying to be a dick, but you friend needs to stop giving you HORRIBLY FALSE advise.. The 228r is a pretty decent sized cam. Without a stall the car will see minimal gains. The stall keeps you in your powerband for the cam. With stock stall everytime you shift it's going to have a huge dead spot. The bigger cam makes power at a higher rpm. A stall is 150% needed. You will knock off more et with a stall than you ever will with a cam. I went from 12.99 to 12.3 from stock stall to a circle d 3400 stall. Not to mention it will be hard to tune, drive like ****, and pull on your brakes like a bitch.... With that cam a minimum of 3000 stall is needed imo. A 3600-4000 for best results. I hope you do not listen to whatever you friend is telling you lol. I promise you won't be happy if you do.
05-26-2012, 11:43 AM
#45
Yes, massively different. Stock LS heads flow what 'race' old school heads used to, and that alone is enough to make cams act differently. It's a completely different engine design, so guidelines on what worked in 'old school' motors aren't applicable to modern engine design.
In short, stop listening to him.
Also: Go with a 3600 converter. I have a Yank 3600 SS in my '98. It's a damned good converter on the street.
In short, stop listening to him.
Also: Go with a 3600 converter. I have a Yank 3600 SS in my '98. It's a damned good converter on the street.
05-26-2012, 01:11 PM
#48
Get the stall and tranny cooler first, get used to that. DD.. 3000-3200.. street demon 3600-4000. CircleD or Yank, nothing else.
A Cam swap should always be the last thing you do TBH, cuz you need so many supporting mods to make it reliable and drivable. You can't just throw in a cam and hope for the best, thats *** backwards. And you better not be buying to just for the sound, I will personally drive over there and steal your ls1 and give you a junkyard lt1.
and I would contact PatG to spec you a cam optimized for that setup vs a over the shelf cam. If you just absolutely HAD TO HAVE A OFF THE SHELF CAM, torquer 3 112lsa would be a decent cam thats still driveable, or a torquer2 at a 113 lsa if u want to use spray (refer to carter01)
A Cam swap should always be the last thing you do TBH, cuz you need so many supporting mods to make it reliable and drivable. You can't just throw in a cam and hope for the best, thats *** backwards. And you better not be buying to just for the sound, I will personally drive over there and steal your ls1 and give you a junkyard lt1.
and I would contact PatG to spec you a cam optimized for that setup vs a over the shelf cam. If you just absolutely HAD TO HAVE A OFF THE SHELF CAM, torquer 3 112lsa would be a decent cam thats still driveable, or a torquer2 at a 113 lsa if u want to use spray (refer to carter01)
05-26-2012, 01:33 PM
#49
so you might get 400 rwhp but it will not show on the dyno.
Not trying to be a dick, but you friend needs to stop giving you HORRIBLY FALSE advise.. The 228r is a pretty decent sized cam. Without a stall the car will see minimal gains. The stall keeps you in your powerband for the cam. With stock stall everytime you shift it's going to have a huge dead spot. The bigger cam makes power at a higher rpm. A stall is 150% needed. You will knock off more et with a stall than you ever will with a cam. I went from 12.99 to 12.3 from stock stall to a circle d 3400 stall. Not to mention it will be hard to tune, drive like ****, and pull on your brakes like a bitch.... With that cam a minimum of 3000 stall is needed imo. A 3600-4000 for best results. I hope you do not listen to whatever you friend is telling you lol. I promise you won't be happy if you do.
This wouldnt be a bad choise either, the T2 has a lil more lift & duration. Not as street friendly as the 228. For a DD I wouldnt go with a polluter.
05-26-2012, 01:59 PM
#51
Like has been mentioned all through this thread. Get yourself a quality stall in the 3000+ range with a big cooler. And than you can get the cam and get it tuned. Getting a cam first is doing it in the wrong order. You will be fine running a stall on stock tune, but a tranny cooler is a must
05-26-2012, 02:11 PM
#54
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...%2070264&dds=1
05-26-2012, 10:03 PM
#60
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I've been running a Yank 3000 with a bolt on tune from Frost. Have about 15k no issue's. I'm Running the cooler that came with my Performabuilt Trans. Sorry don't recall what size it was.