Make an LS1 an LS6?
06-11-2012, 11:11 PM
#42
Whats the difference?
06-12-2012, 06:25 AM
#44
I read the first page and stopped on the 2nd where the drama and bickering began so similar input may have been given already.
To the op, its possible to take a run of the mill LS1 and upgrade it LS6 specs. Earlier this year I picked up a Y2K LS1 and tossed the heads and internals, replaced with a new crank, rods, and coated pistons. A set of 243's and a new LS6 12565308 cam was also installed, I didn't have the engine broken in while my tuner was in Dallas on a tuning trip (I didn't want to beat on the engine so soon) so I had to deal with a mail order tune. Last week the engine dynod 331 rwhp with stock manifolds and airbox. I suspect with a dyno tune the engine would equal or beat the average 340-350 rwhp that most LS6 vehicle's make. I did all the work myself, total cost including the LS1 I bought for the project was about $1700. By comparison the 2004 crate LS1 I bought brand new made 308rwhp and it costed wayyyyy more.
Obviously there is much more to have with better heads and a larger camshaft. At the same time that I was building my engine I also built one for a ls1tech buddy, he sent his 243's to be ported and ordered a big cam, his engine made 448rwhp naturally aspirated. So its a smart choice to "go big or go home" rather than just upgrading to LS6 specs.
To the op, its possible to take a run of the mill LS1 and upgrade it LS6 specs. Earlier this year I picked up a Y2K LS1 and tossed the heads and internals, replaced with a new crank, rods, and coated pistons. A set of 243's and a new LS6 12565308 cam was also installed, I didn't have the engine broken in while my tuner was in Dallas on a tuning trip (I didn't want to beat on the engine so soon) so I had to deal with a mail order tune. Last week the engine dynod 331 rwhp with stock manifolds and airbox. I suspect with a dyno tune the engine would equal or beat the average 340-350 rwhp that most LS6 vehicle's make. I did all the work myself, total cost including the LS1 I bought for the project was about $1700. By comparison the 2004 crate LS1 I bought brand new made 308rwhp and it costed wayyyyy more.
Obviously there is much more to have with better heads and a larger camshaft. At the same time that I was building my engine I also built one for a ls1tech buddy, he sent his 243's to be ported and ordered a big cam, his engine made 448rwhp naturally aspirated. So its a smart choice to "go big or go home" rather than just upgrading to LS6 specs.
06-12-2012, 12:06 PM
#47
What's wrong with people because there's nothing to argue here. You cannot completely turn an LS1 into an LS6, it's simply impossible because the blocks are literally different castings.
How the LS6 differs from the LS1:
-Different block casting (has cast-in windows which allows better bay-to-bay breathing)
-Different pistons (casted from high strength M142 aluminum alloy with a slightly different profile)
-Different PCV system (uses a integral pcv system within the valley cover)
-Different camshaft
-Different fuel injectors
-Different heads, springs and valves
So there you go, the answer to the OP's question is no. Now on the other hand you can add all of the LS6 parts to the LS1 that differ, but you still do not have an LS6 block.
For arguments sake, lets leave the intake manifold out of this.
How the LS6 differs from the LS1:
-Different block casting (has cast-in windows which allows better bay-to-bay breathing)
-Different pistons (casted from high strength M142 aluminum alloy with a slightly different profile)
-Different PCV system (uses a integral pcv system within the valley cover)
-Different camshaft
-Different fuel injectors
-Different heads, springs and valves
So there you go, the answer to the OP's question is no. Now on the other hand you can add all of the LS6 parts to the LS1 that differ, but you still do not have an LS6 block.
For arguments sake, lets leave the intake manifold out of this.
Last edited by R6cowboy; 06-12-2012 at 12:14 PM.
06-12-2012, 12:22 PM
#48
My 01 has an LS6 block......didn't even know it till was disassembled and saw the windows. Kind of a hybrid lol, had the LS6 injectors and LS6 intake but LS1 241 heads and the LS1 pcv system.
Not really much to fight over it's not a big deal about just the block. The heads, cam and intake are the big reasons the LS6 makes more power.
Not really much to fight over it's not a big deal about just the block. The heads, cam and intake are the big reasons the LS6 makes more power.
06-12-2012, 12:24 PM
#49
You need to figure out your REAL budget and REAL usage priorities.
Regardless, you need good installation and a QUALITY tune.
Your car needs to be in excellent tune/running/maintenance condition before doing a build.
If you want all out power per dollar, aftermarket heads, cam, intake is your friend.
If you're putting significant mileage on the car, some 243 or 5.3 heads, worked by AI will be your friend. Factory valve guides will be your friend if you want to drive the car a lot.
This can also be true of the cam. If you're under 10k/year, do the cam (and springs) you want. If you drive over that, stick to a GM or gentle lobe cam so you don't have to do spring changes every year or two.
If your HP goals are reasonable, you may find that the HOT or ASA cam, with the proper heads, exhaust, and supporting mods will be exactly what you're looking for. You can also pick up much of this used to save some coin. If you want dyno bragging rights, go aftermarket, be happy...until maintenance time comes. If you're not flush with cash, GM parts will be your friend down the road.
You need to get a realistic handle on budget and usage.
Regardless, you need good installation and a QUALITY tune.
Your car needs to be in excellent tune/running/maintenance condition before doing a build.
If you want all out power per dollar, aftermarket heads, cam, intake is your friend.
If you're putting significant mileage on the car, some 243 or 5.3 heads, worked by AI will be your friend. Factory valve guides will be your friend if you want to drive the car a lot.
This can also be true of the cam. If you're under 10k/year, do the cam (and springs) you want. If you drive over that, stick to a GM or gentle lobe cam so you don't have to do spring changes every year or two.
If your HP goals are reasonable, you may find that the HOT or ASA cam, with the proper heads, exhaust, and supporting mods will be exactly what you're looking for. You can also pick up much of this used to save some coin. If you want dyno bragging rights, go aftermarket, be happy...until maintenance time comes. If you're not flush with cash, GM parts will be your friend down the road.
You need to get a realistic handle on budget and usage.
06-12-2012, 12:57 PM
#50
R6cowboy, let's say I take my LS1 crate engine (casting number on block12561168) add the ls6 cam and some 243 heads...in your professional opinion what would the engine be then?
06-12-2012, 01:49 PM
#51
Techncially....when its not in a car its a 346 ci LS engine.
My engine has the LS6 block (Factory), the updated valley cover (Factory), 243 heads, LS6 intake with Z06 part # (Factory) and you will get arguements all day long about what it "really" is...
IMHO....
Take a 346 CI LS, put sodium valved 243 heads on, Z06 cam, LS6 intake all bolted on the LS6 block....
You have an LS6
Its just a part combination....
06-12-2012, 02:24 PM
#53
06-12-2012, 02:30 PM
#54
