0 Oil Pressure
0 Oil Pressure I'm working on a car that was brought to me after someone else did a cam, springs, pushrods, timing chain and oil pump. Car has NO oil pressure. I swapped out the oil pump again, checked the o-ring, and replaced it. Has fresh oil that has clearly not been circulating thru the engine. Stock bottom end, stock stall 84k miles on the engine. Was running fine before the cam install. I'm stumped as to what the problem could be. I've searched and searched and can't find an answer. Can anyone help point me in the direction of something else to look at? There is absolutely no oil circulating thru the engine since the timing gear and everything above the pump are all bone dry.
Matt
Matt
If there isn't any oil getting to the top end, the oil pump is good (or new) and the o-ring isn't torn then you could be using the wrong o-ring. What color o-ring is in the pump right now? It needs to be either a GM blue, or a Felpro black o-ring.
Also check where the pick-up to goes into the pump. I always stick a .010 feeler gauge in to confirm there is ZERO gap all the way around where the pick-up tube seats to the pump. A lot of the time people will bend the tube trying to wrestle the pump out and it won't seat back flush on the pump. This is more than likely not your problem but it's something worth looking @ anyway.
Check the oil pressure sensor @ the back of the intake and make sure somebody didn't break it. Most people rely on the gauge in the car to know if they have oil pressure or not. If the sensor is broken it will obviously read zero.
Good luck
Also check where the pick-up to goes into the pump. I always stick a .010 feeler gauge in to confirm there is ZERO gap all the way around where the pick-up tube seats to the pump. A lot of the time people will bend the tube trying to wrestle the pump out and it won't seat back flush on the pump. This is more than likely not your problem but it's something worth looking @ anyway.
Check the oil pressure sensor @ the back of the intake and make sure somebody didn't break it. Most people rely on the gauge in the car to know if they have oil pressure or not. If the sensor is broken it will obviously read zero.
Good luck
To prove the o-ring/pickup tube/oil pump, remove the oil filter and place a large, clean container under the filter boss.
Crank the engine and check for a good stream of oil leaving the boss.
After tearing down the engine, I also found that the oil barbell had backed out just enough to cause intermittant pressure.
As someone previous said, check the cam plate for proper seal.
I had a curious experience with the blue o-ring, and a ported LS6 oil pump.
The blue o-ring, for whatever reason, did not have enough meat on it to seal properly.
I bought a new Melling 25 pump, which came with a fatter green o-ring. To prove my loss of oil pressure, I installed the green o-ring with the ported LS6 pump, and viola!...it created great flow. The blue o-ring looked perfect, but didn't perform properly.
Crank the engine and check for a good stream of oil leaving the boss.
After tearing down the engine, I also found that the oil barbell had backed out just enough to cause intermittant pressure.
As someone previous said, check the cam plate for proper seal.
I had a curious experience with the blue o-ring, and a ported LS6 oil pump.
The blue o-ring, for whatever reason, did not have enough meat on it to seal properly.
I bought a new Melling 25 pump, which came with a fatter green o-ring. To prove my loss of oil pressure, I installed the green o-ring with the ported LS6 pump, and viola!...it created great flow. The blue o-ring looked perfect, but didn't perform properly.
Thanks all I will check this again. I changed it out again with a Fel-Pro black o-ring but I also have a Green and Red O-Ring. TSP Ported LS6 Oil pump was used, and I tried a stock pump. I didn't do the install, but it was Cam, Springs, Pushrods, Timing Chain and Oil Pump that was done to it. I don't think the oil barbell slipped out since they are held in by the rear cover. The engine clearly isn't being oiled since there isn't any oil at the top half of the block. I can pull the intake to check the sender but that was a second to last resort at this point since I've basically confirmed the loss of pressre.
Matt
Matt
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I am doing a swap and I received a red oring with my GM muscle car oil pan and I used it because I figured it was the recommended one, but my felpro gasket kit came with the red one also as well as the aforementioned black and blue o rings...I hope I don't have the same issues let us know if the oring was the difference...
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Verdad Gallardo Here's one more bit regarding the barbell.
After finding the original barbell backed out of the block (all by itself), I bought a new one to replace it.
The rear/ribbed area of the original barbell is not as deep/long as the new one.
So, in my case, the rear cover was not capable of keeping the orig barb inserted.
The new barb, with extra length, is pressed up against the rear cover, so that it cannot slip out.
After finding the original barbell backed out of the block (all by itself), I bought a new one to replace it.
The rear/ribbed area of the original barbell is not as deep/long as the new one.
So, in my case, the rear cover was not capable of keeping the orig barb inserted.
The new barb, with extra length, is pressed up against the rear cover, so that it cannot slip out.
If none of this pans out, there is also a possiblity one of the cam bearings got knocked out on install. I have seen cam bearings walk themselves out before and it caused a no oil pressure issue. There wasn't really any noise or anything. Just that the gauge read zero.
James
James
is thiming chain a double row? If so, the shims used on the oil pump MUST be oriented properly, or the oil passage is blocked.
Straight from the Comp instructions.....
Note: The driver’s side shim must be installed correctly. Improper orientation will partially block oil
flow from the oil pump. Ensure the holes line up or catastrophic engine damage may occur.
Straight from the Comp instructions.....
Note: The driver’s side shim must be installed correctly. Improper orientation will partially block oil
flow from the oil pump. Ensure the holes line up or catastrophic engine damage may occur.
Last edited by Old Geezer; Jun 18, 2012 at 07:20 AM.
Here's one more bit regarding the barbell.
After finding the original barbell backed out of the block (all by itself), I bought a new one to replace it.
The rear/ribbed area of the original barbell is not as deep/long as the new one.
So, in my case, the rear cover was not capable of keeping the orig barb inserted.
The new barb, with extra length, is pressed up against the rear cover, so that it cannot slip out.
After finding the original barbell backed out of the block (all by itself), I bought a new one to replace it.
The rear/ribbed area of the original barbell is not as deep/long as the new one.
So, in my case, the rear cover was not capable of keeping the orig barb inserted.
The new barb, with extra length, is pressed up against the rear cover, so that it cannot slip out.
If none of this pans out, there is also a possiblity one of the cam bearings got knocked out on install. I have seen cam bearings walk themselves out before and it caused a no oil pressure issue. There wasn't really any noise or anything. Just that the gauge read zero.
James
James
is thiming chain a double row? If so, the shims used on the oil pump MUST be oriented properly, or the oil passage is blocked.
RTFB:Straight from the Comp instructions.....
Note: The driver’s side shim must be installed correctly. Improper orientation will partially block oil
flow from the oil pump. Ensure the holes line up or catastrophic engine damage may occur.
RTFB:Straight from the Comp instructions.....
Note: The driver’s side shim must be installed correctly. Improper orientation will partially block oil
flow from the oil pump. Ensure the holes line up or catastrophic engine damage may occur.
Thanks for all the help, so far no good results. Hell if I could find the problem I'd be happy.
Cam bearings are Still Good and in tact, replaced the O-Ring on the oil pump for a second time with a Fel-Pro Green. Replaced the Cam Retainer plate. Still No Oil Pressure. It looks to me that the inside of the pump is bone dry. Any Other Suggestions? I'm thinking maybe the barbell in the back of the block?
Matt
Matt
If the inside of your pump is dry, you are not pulling oil from the pan. That sounds like a pickup issue. Is your pickup a match for the pan your using? If so then you have an o-ring issue. Air is getting into the pickup tube somehow. You cannot pull oil from the pan without a vacuum.
If the inside of your pump is dry, you are not pulling oil from the pan. That sounds like a pickup issue. Is your pickup a match for the pan your using? If so then you have an o-ring issue. Air is getting into the pickup tube somehow. You cannot pull oil from the pan without a vacuum.
