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Engine started knocking/ticking on drive home

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Old 06-27-2012 | 10:36 PM
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Default Engine started knocking/ticking on drive home

I was out running some errands today in my 98 ws6 A4. The only mods are SLP lid and a magnaflow catback. I was getting on the interstate and as I exited the ramp I began to hear a ticking or knocking noise. I was accelerating fast but was not at WOT. I pulled off and checked the oil level(fine) and it sounds like it is coming from the driver side of the motor. Any ideas what this could be? I noticed that the motor was getting warm(temp gauge went to 50%) and the oil pressure was floating around 40 on the gauge. I had to drive it home a few miles and the noise never got better or worse. After I got home and parked it the SES light came on the next time I started it. I had a new(reman) power steering pump put in a few weeks ago could something have gone wrong with the part or the install

Do you think it would be ok to drive it 3 miles to a shop?

here is a crappy cell phone video of the noise.

Old 06-27-2012 | 10:48 PM
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Pop the valve cover off if you den and check the rockers and pushrods....hopefully it is something simple
Old 06-27-2012 | 10:53 PM
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I will get to that tomorrow, they would move freely if they are bad right
Old 06-27-2012 | 10:57 PM
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Sometimes....first yes, see if you can move any rockers up and down, ten pull the rockers off, pull the pushrods out and roll them on a flat surface to see if any are bent.
Old 06-27-2012 | 11:17 PM
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Probably just a loose rocker. I'm more concerned about the "refurbished" PS pump that you had installed... sounds more like a POS pump.
Old 06-27-2012 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 1999CamaroSS
Probably just a loose rocker. I'm more concerned about the "refurbished" PS pump that you had installed... sounds more like a POS pump.
Yeah I almost never do reman products but I let my mechanic convince me to do it. I really hope it is just a loose rocker and not a spun bearing.
Old 06-27-2012 | 11:39 PM
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I have heard some pretty loud pumps before too, just before they let loose

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Old 06-27-2012 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mark21742
I have heard some pretty loud pumps before too, just before they let loose
Would a bad pump cause a ticking noise though? I know my video isn't the greatest but there is def a tick from the drivers side when given throttle.


Any special instructions for removing the valve cover/rockers/pushrods or is it pretty straight forward? Been a few years since I have done it and that was on a pontiac 400
Old 06-28-2012 | 12:19 AM
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Pretty strait forward, then when it goes back together the rockers just get torqued to 22ft pounds
Old 06-28-2012 | 12:20 AM
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Also look for any of the rockers losing their needle bearings
Old 06-28-2012 | 12:29 AM
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thanks for all the advice and tips. Hopefully I can get everything accomplished tomorrow before work
Old 06-28-2012 | 03:36 PM
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So long story short not the rods or rockets its 2 bad air check valves. Stealer wants 268 to replace is that worth it or is it rather easy to replace
Old 06-28-2012 | 05:09 PM
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Check valves for the AIR system? If it is, just remove the air/egr and have a turner delete them.
Old 06-28-2012 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by soulless
Check valves for the AIR system? If it is, just remove the air/egr and have a turner delete them.
I'm starting to think that they are different valves then the air check valves on the AIR system. He told me they are looking at about 120 dollars for the 2 valves and they are 16 bucks on GM parts direct. He is going to call me tomorrow with the part numbers so I can verify what is being replaced.
Old 06-28-2012 | 05:57 PM
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When my passenger side AIR valve screwed up, I think the code was 1613, it didn't make any noise. I was able to clean it out to get it working again, but it's been removed for years now.
Old 06-29-2012 | 08:32 AM
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they called back, they are talking about the AIR system check valves and wont budge on their 268 dollar price.
Old 06-29-2012 | 11:25 AM
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If it is the secondary air injection check valve (#4 in the pic.) you can do it yourself. My passenger side one got dirty and kept throwing a code. I couldn't break it free while it was on the car so I removed the tube from the manifold sprayed it with WD40 and put one side in a vice. It still took a lot of force to get it loose.

I just soaked the valve in brake cleaner and put it back together with never seize on the threads. I reused the gasket on the manifold without any problems.

Todd

Old 06-30-2012 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 1999CamaroSS
Probably just a loose rocker. I'm more concerned about the "refurbished" PS pump that you had installed... sounds more like a POS pump.
thats what i was thinking.
i couldnt hear squat over the whine of the "new pump"
that would annoy the **** outta me
Old 07-08-2012 | 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002ss335
If it is the secondary air injection check valve (#4 in the pic.) you can do it yourself. My passenger side one got dirty and kept throwing a code. I couldn't break it free while it was on the car so I removed the tube from the manifold sprayed it with WD40 and put one side in a vice. It still took a lot of force to get it loose.

I just soaked the valve in brake cleaner and put it back together with never seize on the threads. I reused the gasket on the manifold without any problems.

Todd

Those suckers are on tight. I had to remove mine from the manifold as well to loosen it off. I replaced it and reinstalled it. However, mine didn't have a gasket where it fastens onto the manifold, just some "silver gunk"?? I noticed a low rpm ticking noise after doing this when the engine is warm. I'm wondering if I could be hearing an exhaust leak or something because of the no gasket? What type of gasket would be recommended for this purpose? Because that silver stuff sure didn't look very good when I put the check valve tube back onto the manifold. Sorry to thread hijack here, just really curious. Thanks



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