Engine started knocking/ticking on drive home
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 282
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From: Wisconsin
Engine started knocking/ticking on drive home I was out running some errands today in my 98 ws6 A4. The only mods are SLP lid and a magnaflow catback. I was getting on the interstate and as I exited the ramp I began to hear a ticking or knocking noise. I was accelerating fast but was not at WOT. I pulled off and checked the oil level(fine) and it sounds like it is coming from the driver side of the motor. Any ideas what this could be? I noticed that the motor was getting warm(temp gauge went to 50%) and the oil pressure was floating around 40 on the gauge. I had to drive it home a few miles and the noise never got better or worse. After I got home and parked it the SES light came on the next time I started it. I had a new(reman) power steering pump put in a few weeks ago could something have gone wrong with the part or the install
Do you think it would be ok to drive it 3 miles to a shop?
here is a crappy cell phone video of the noise.
Do you think it would be ok to drive it 3 miles to a shop?
here is a crappy cell phone video of the noise.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 282
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From: Wisconsin
Yeah I almost never do reman products but I let my mechanic convince me to do it. I really hope it is just a loose rocker and not a spun bearing.
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Launching!
Joined: May 2012
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From: Wisconsin
Any special instructions for removing the valve cover/rockers/pushrods or is it pretty straight forward? Been a few years since I have done it and that was on a pontiac 400
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Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 282
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From: Wisconsin
I'm starting to think that they are different valves then the air check valves on the AIR system. He told me they are looking at about 120 dollars for the 2 valves and they are 16 bucks on GM parts direct. He is going to call me tomorrow with the part numbers so I can verify what is being replaced.
Launching!
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From: searching for the perfect driving line
When my passenger side AIR valve screwed up, I think the code was 1613, it didn't make any noise. I was able to clean it out to get it working again, but it's been removed for years now.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 183
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From: Ohio
If it is the secondary air injection check valve (#4 in the pic.) you can do it yourself. My passenger side one got dirty and kept throwing a code. I couldn't break it free while it was on the car so I removed the tube from the manifold sprayed it with WD40 and put one side in a vice. It still took a lot of force to get it loose.
I just soaked the valve in brake cleaner and put it back together with never seize on the threads. I reused the gasket on the manifold without any problems.
Todd
I just soaked the valve in brake cleaner and put it back together with never seize on the threads. I reused the gasket on the manifold without any problems.
Todd
If it is the secondary air injection check valve (#4 in the pic.) you can do it yourself. My passenger side one got dirty and kept throwing a code. I couldn't break it free while it was on the car so I removed the tube from the manifold sprayed it with WD40 and put one side in a vice. It still took a lot of force to get it loose.
I just soaked the valve in brake cleaner and put it back together with never seize on the threads. I reused the gasket on the manifold without any problems.
Todd
I just soaked the valve in brake cleaner and put it back together with never seize on the threads. I reused the gasket on the manifold without any problems.
Todd
