I have 2004 Cadillac CTS-V with LS6 motor that I recently completed a cam and head swap on.

When I installed the heads I used brand new GM MLS gaskets and ARP bolts all torqued in proper sequence to ARP specs. The heads were Precision Race 2.5 from Texas Speed, since they were brand new I did no blocking or machine work on them. The only thing I did to the surface of the block was gently clean off the old gasket material.

While Installing the new CAM, lifters and push rods I lubed them up with COMPcam engine assembly lube. For initial start up I filled her with traditional SAE 30 oil. Everything during start up was fine, seems to be running great with the exception of needing a tune. I haven't driven it yet, just let it idol up and some revs in the driveway.

Now for the problem, yesterday I drained the oil to fill with fresh Mobil 1 synthetic and I noticed the oil was brown/white, a little milky color. First thought was leaking head gasket so I looked real close at the oil including sticking my finger in it. It doesn't appear to have any obvious signs of coolant, so I assumed it was the white engine lube that was causing the issue.

Then I pulled the oil filler cap and saw a few drops of water condensation on the inside of the cap, no white stuff, just clean water but I totally freaked out and pulled the valve covers only to find zero signs of water or coolant around the rockers, just clean oil.

The coolant did drop when I first started up, however I attributed that to the fact it needed to flush through the motor after being drained during the swap.

Am I over reacting? I don't want to ruin the bearings if it is leaking by driving it, would it be obvious if the head gasket is leaking into the oil? If it is leaking will new gasket solve it our will I have to pull the block and take it to a machine shop?

Thank you for your assistance, still a noob when it comes to this stuff!

 

did you copper coat the new gaskets?

 

I didn't, was that my mistake?

Didn't call for the copper spray the builders book's or GM service manual, now I may be paying the price..

 

Copper coat isn't necessary, sounds like just alittle condensation washing out. Any white smoke out the exhaust? I would run it alittle and drain the oil again and see what you see.

 

copper coat does help to seal the water jacket I personally don"t install MLS gaskets with out it. But you should run the engine a bit more it may be some coolant spilled into the short block when you pulled the heads off.

 

We dont spray GM head gaskets at the shop and don't have any issues - I'd get some fresh oil in it and run it some more. Keep an eye on oil psi and make sure the motor doesn't knock. Check it often. Check your coolant level too. If your coolant stays full its not going into the engine.

 

I have never sprayed a LS MLS gasket. I have never seen any recommendations for spraying LS head gaskets in any LS specific book or in the service manual

 

People spray copper on the Cometics, not the GM gaskets.

 

I've never used copper srpay on MLS gaskets and never had a problem.

 

Even on Cometics it isn't NEEDED.....

Prime example being a head swap on a stock short block. Block not decked but heads milled and true. I'd opt for it then.

New motor, decked block and freshly milled heads? No need.

OP you're not hurting anything by using it, but the GM MLS head gaskets have a thin rubber seal for the water jackets. You can't go wrong either way.

 

Change oil. Condensation will build the way you are starting and letting it idle. Ten please tune it asap.

 

You guys rock! Thank you for the input, put my mind at ease.

I'll let it run up a bit and let everything get good and warm then check the oil again. I've been keeping an eye on oil pressure and temperature and everything looks good.

I have the tune scheduled for next friday so I'm hoping I'm good to go!!

 

etcts-v, you starting it and letting it idle is most likely the reason of your issue so why continue to do so? To clear your oil your car needs to be driven but to do so you need to tune it. So common sense is to just leave it alone, if too much water in oil then change it and take it to be tuned. Once tuned do a 15 minute drive on the highway and voila condensation evaporates.
If in the future, even tuned you just start it and go to the grocery then come back, condensation can build up again. This is a common issue.

 

I went through the same paranoia. I installed heads before winter then let my car sit for two years under a cover. Later, when I started it, there was a lot of white smoke out the exhaust and the oil cap had the same brown/ white crud on it. The white smoke lingered for a week so I started thinking I had a head gasket leak. So I changed the oil, checked the coolant level (it seemed ok), and seafoamed the crankcase. Then I put some miles on the car and the smoke disappeared and the oil, coolant and everything was fine.

I know you already got peace-of-mind out of this thread, but just adding my 2 cents.

 

Right on, thanks for the input. The tuner is 150 miles away from my house so I wanted to be sure I'm not leaking before I took it all the way down there for nothing.

 

Good info, thank you!

 

REally, I would have never guessed the 04 CTS-V came with the ls6 motor..

 

a big common cause of people's complaint of a car running like **** and lacking power . . . drive the car more than 2 miles a day and let the thing get to operating temperature and put some loads on it!!! (that last part is not meant for you op lol)

 

To be sure You could run a pressure test of the cooling system over-night .

 

Sorry to threadjack-- i have an LS2 cts-v and I'm considering doing a PCV delete, but I don't drive my cars many miles-- maybe ten miles/ day with a loner drive once a week. I am also running a 160 tstat. Could the PCV delete lead to more of a problem with condensation buildup given my mileage?