My crate motor is a 2004 GTO LS1. It was produced in 2004 and then prepped for long-term storage. It had stickers all over the crate documenting this and date stamps etc.

I'm not swapping heads/cam so it's not like I'm building a new motor or tearing into this one significantly where I can use assembly lube everywhere you normally would.. I assume the motor is internally lubricated for storage (it's perfectly clean inside), but it's been 8 years.

Reading on here there seem to be 100 different ways to pre-lube a fresh engine. GM's instructions with their LS3 crate motors just say to disable fuel and spark and crank for 10 second periods until pressure is registered.

I don't really care to buy or build a special tool to pre-oil the engine if it's not needed.

Thoughts?

 

I did my 2004 crate LS6 just like you described 3yrs ago, no issues thus far.

 

Would it be wise to possibly spray some sort of penetrating oil in the cylinders for any rust on the rings and cylinder walls that may have formed? Just a thought

 

I usually put a little bit of atf in each cylinder and turn it over by hand A few times. Did this with my dad's 396 BBC that sat in storage for 7 years. Got it strapped to the engine dyno, primed the oil thru the dist hole and fired it right up. No problems.

 

With a small flat cam and edelbrock tbi heads it did 420 horse and 460 ftlbs at the crank.

 

Possibly, but the engine looked pristine from what I could see with the valley cover off and looking through the exhaust ports. I'll know more when I swap the pan. It seems GM takes great care prepping these crate engines for long-term storage. They oil them, spray a light coating of oil on the outside, then cover the top with some special butcher paper looking stuff that says it's for engine storage and then bag it in plastic.

 

Brian, send an email to Ed Hutchins and be done with it; I've never seen the OP gage move without firing the motor; I'm sure you turned the motor over by hand a few times and things are all good.

 

Actually, if you pull the spark plugs, have a good strong battery, you CAN get around 50psi or more of oil pressure by turning it over with the starter.

I've only done it once though. Every other time I'll spin it over a few times with everything ready to go. Plug the coil packs back up, pop the fuel pump fuse back in, and fire her off. Usually have oil pressure instantly.

 

I'd also yank the plugs, squirt some penetrating oil in the holes and then crank without plugs or fuel.

Once you do get this engine started, do an oil & filter change once it hits operating temperature. This will get out all the assembly and storage lubricants.

Use a Mobil One Extended, K&N, Wix or Hastings filter.